Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
784 topics in this forum
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- 0 replies
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Hello everybody, I'm a new comer to this forum and glad to make my first contribution. I've been impressed from the quality and quantity of the informations going thru this site and hope that this topic would help DIY users avoid my interrogations about phase issues i went thru making my own 2xTA3F to TA5F inject cable feeding my Zaxcom IFB200. So, despite the wiring diagram for the analog input presented on the manual (page20) of the Zaxcom IFB200 here is the one you should follow: - Pin2 of the Out of mixer XLR (or TA3) L goes to: Pin 2 of TA5F on IFB200 - Pin3 of the Out of mixer XLR (or TA3) L goes to: Pin 3 of TA5F on IFB200 - Pin2 of the …
Last reply by Bax, -
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- 1.3k views
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ug1J2RZcc0
Last reply by stacysound, -
- 13 replies
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So my DIY Right angle connector gets to join the rest of my DIY colour codes family...
Last reply by Lawrence Chick, -
- 5 replies
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I've been working out the set up for my cart, and I've been thinking about the possibility of using ATA road cases, but then drilling holes in the sides to attach a locking system to the case so I don't have to use a ratchet strap to secure the case to the cart. Even if it were secured by a few screwing pins or locking pins, I'd like that better then ratcheting. I also want to make sure that drilling holes into these cases won't compromise the integrity of the case. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great! Thanks, Steve
Last reply by mpsanos, -
- 3 followers
- 31 replies
- 5.9k views
Ok, so I've been planning my next bag mixer cart for some time now. I've looked into 80/20 materials, bought all the gear to weld aluminum, researched how to bend aluminum to make trays, etc., etc. etc...It started occurring to me that I've been spending more time researching then actually building. So, I told myself, "self, why don't you just build something as cheap and quick as possible because you still haven't started this ultimate cart you've been dreaming about." Thus began my quest to build a decent bag mixer cart for under $400. Yes, it can be done easily and I'll show you how. Stay tuned for pics, prices, part numbers, and instructions. =)
Last reply by Miles Anderson, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
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Took me about 6 months of design, testing, redesign, and testing, but wanted to share my build. I wanted to have something I can use on both a cart (Modified R12 Rock n Roller cart build pix coming in a week), or that I can take to a location via car, subway, or plane. Its super compact and dense, but has all I need. I started with a Gator Case G-Mix. It has a 12U rackmount space that tilts. I chose this over the similar SKB case, because it has a greater depth when closed and I needed that depth for the components. To me, the case seemed a bit flimsy, so I modified it. First, I cut to fit several 1/8 birch plywood panels and riveted them to the case sides and…
Last reply by Michael Panfeld, -
- 15 replies
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Hi everyone, I want to build a TC Cable for the App Movie-Slate on the iPhone. After researching a bit got this document from Denecke: http://www.denecke.com/Support/Documents/Smart%20Device%20Input%20&%20Output%20Cables%20Schematic.pdf I want to build the type with a pad. But what I am wondering is what are the 1K resistor and the .022uF capacitor for? Propably some basic electronics trick, but I am relatively new to this and am curious Thanks in advance, Hendrik Smart Device Input & Output Cables Schematic.pdf
Last reply by eombilod, -
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Anyone have any recommendations for 4 channel cable for a DMS setup. I'm aware of the Schoeps DMS conbox but I want to weigh my options.
Last reply by myke2241, -
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Hi guys Just needing a little assistance regarding the cable techniques Rx emergency unit which I recently bought. I'm finding the noise floor extremely high and I'm sure that shouldn't be the case. I'm using a Lectro 411a, outputting line level @ 0dBu from the receiver into the mix in of my 302. I'm getting decent audio levels but the hiss is bad. I've tried it on my other 411a with the same results. The one possible cause I thought of could be the balanced cable which I wired myself, however from an XLR to TA3F the wiring is straight forward 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and 3 to 3. Unless I need to add a resistor somewhere. Any help would be appreciated! Sebastian
Last reply by Sebastian, -
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Normally I don't send a scratch track to a DSLR - and let the camera mic do its thing. But I have a shoot coming up where I need to feed the camera a scratch. I am going to be using my ERX to feed the DSLR and I need to make up a short jumper cable. I will be using a right angle 3.5mm on the ERX end but I am trying to decide is it better to put a straight mini on the camera end or go with a right angle. Any thoughts pro or con? Also what length cable do you recommend? Do operators generally attach the ERX to the camera rig or do they put it in a pocket or place it on their belt?
Last reply by Marc Hoppe, -
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I just finished wiring a hirose connector to an NP-1 battery cup. Is pin 1 shorted to the housing of the hirose by design, or did screw it up? There is continuity between the negative battery tab in the cup and the housing of the hirose. I took it apart and couldn't see anything obviously screwed up, and I don't have another example to compare. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by soundtrane, -
- 3 followers
- 59 replies
- 11.4k views
So here is my new kortwich bag for my 664 rig. It took a long time ( close to 5 months ) to get it and costed around 900$cdn. But it is well worth it. I have absolutly no back pain at all even after 3 days of shooting 12-16 hours days running. I made a flap in the back ( against the body ) to open and insert a CL6, held in place by velcro. Works like a charm. At the end you can see the bag in cart mode. CL6 SPACE WITH OPENING CART MODE MY ROLLER STAND CART KIT Pascal
Last reply by pvanstry, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
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http://www.accu-brand.com/industrial-hose-hangers_1202_c.aspx -vin
Last reply by JP Fonseca, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 2k views
I built a DC dist unit: 1 Input 8 Outputs Input - 9A polyfuse protection, 60 degree © thermal cutoff, reverse polarity protection Switchcraft high current connector (plug and jack capable of handling 11A, IP68) Locking toggle switch (NKK) capable of 20A Input LED (red, 5mm) Outputs - 3A per output with polyfuse protection and LC filter at ~ 1 kHz resonant frequency Switchcraft locking connectors (jack and plug) CHASSIS AL extrusion with 1.5 mm panels 3 x 2 x 4 inch (length x height x depth) weight <250g CIRCUIT BOARD Glass-epoxy 1/16" thickness Overall 1/8" tracks -vin
Last reply by soundtrane, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
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So this has been talked about before but I've never been able to find the perfect cable. Here is the dilema: The Hirose 4p solder pots are tiny. A 20AWG stranded conductor doesn't fit. You really need 24-26 AWG conductors for a good strong connection without having to trim the strands off. The strain relief of either style of Hirose 4 pin require an outer cable diameter of 4-5mm. The solution? Canare mini starquad or mini standard paired mic cable (L-2E5) is a perfect match to the above requirement. It is also flexible which many other cables aren't and the conductor insulation has excellent shrink back properties where cheaper cable has trouble…
Last reply by Constantin, -
- 8 replies
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I had been working on this little project for a couple of weeks when I found out that Ambient made their own V-SLOT device. I was a little bummed, but mine has a few features to differentiate it from the Ambient unit and am trying to finish the prototype. I'll hopefully have it finished next week. I wanted to know if anyone here would be interested in testing my device and putting it through its paces? Ideally it would be someone who is going to be working with a rig set up for V-mount batteries, and utilize a variety of cameras, that would use line, mic, especially interested in RED Scarlet/Epic, Black Magic, and DSLR with stereo mini jack type applications. Line…
Last reply by Tom Visser, -
- 7 replies
- 2k views
Does anyone know how to convert an AC powered mixer to DC power? I'm looking to convert my Allen & Heath ZED14 so I can power it off my MEON. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by Jorge Del Valle, -
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- 1.6k views
This is...interesting.
Last reply by Jon Gilbert, -
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- 1.3k views
The only place I can find the pinouts for the sony DB15 wireless camera sockets is here: http://pinoutsguide.com/DigitalCameras/sony_camcorder_wireless_pinout.shtml 1 GND Audio Gnd 2 A1in Audio channel 1 input (unbalanced) 3 A 2in Audio channel 2 input (unbalanced) 4 V+ DC +7V output 5 GND Ground 6 SCLK SCLK ouput 64FS 7 WR855 DET 8 GND 9 WRR CLK WRR Serial Clock input 10 CS WRR Select ouput 11 WRR DI output to WRR Serial input 12 WRR DO input from WRR Serial output 13 LRCK Output FS 14 Data 1/2 Audio Data 1/2 input 15 Data 3/4 Audio Data 3/4 input can anyone confirm whether this is correct or not, please?
Last reply by Richard Thomas, -
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I know a lot of you guys are using the Fat Max as a follow cart, but have any of you ever modded yours to make it a little sturdier? Worked with a mixer whose handles finally got too bent to extend/close and don't want to go through that myself. Not sure if this is even possible without totally destroying it or whatever, but figured I'd ask!
Last reply by Mirror, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
I should have made this 15 years ago, but has been great to have around to test for correct wiring on adapter cables. Run a lead from each TA5 pin out to a terminal strip.... a breeze to check with a meter.
Last reply by ggriswold, -
- 8 replies
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Greetings. This is my first post and hope you folks can help me with a project I am thinking of doing. I currently call play by play for different sporting events and other public speaking venues. I am set up so I am within touching range of my mixing board all the time, but once I get it set I do not like to mess with it and other times it is futher away than what I can get to. I am currently using a Crown CM-311A headset with an XLR output hooked directly to my board. I have a belt pack which allows me to turn the mic on and off without touching the sound board. I like the headset but I have had it for 6 years and it is starting to wear out. I would like to upgrade to a…
Last reply by John Steigerwald, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
- 6.2k views
Since I am currently in cable-making readiness mode(have 200' of CA3PS26 coming from Trew and Neutricons from Markertek for my DIY breakaway cable system), I am also thinking about building a breakout for the DB-15 AES connector on my Nomad. I am looking at different cable options, this one looks quite good: http://www.gotham.ch...7_details&id=59 Has anyone yet built one of these? Managing the shields in the DB-15 looks like it will be the most "fun" part of the job... and the 15mm diameter of the cable presents a thought as to the shell of the DB-15.
Last reply by studiomprd, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
Nomadified my Fusion. The mysterious (and unused) REF1 BNC is now an alternate TC out.
Last reply by thope, -
- 30 replies
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What is the real world difference between wiring a Hirose with pins 1&4 or 2&3 for A/C powering (not from an external DC source)
Last reply by JackHenry,