Zach R

You can just use the headphone rotary dial to change to what ever you want to monitor. In the settings you can also set favorites and defaults for when you press the dial in. (or make it so nothing happens when pressed) It sounds like you were either scrolling through headphone options and accidentally settled on the confidence monitor option or you pressed in the dial by accident and it defaulted to a favorite that you may not have realized was set. For example: Among many other combinations, you may have been trying to listen to tracks A and B but were listening to confidence monitor A and B

It sounds like you were using the "confidence monitoring" selection in the headphone matrix. You were listening to the actual audio that was being written to the hard drive. Because of record buffer time you hear it about 10-12 seconds delayed as it has to write to disk before you're hearing it. Pretty useful if you want to switch between your mix and the recorded track(s) but can be a bit annoying if you're hearing or seeing sync video while monitoring.

I’m curious about the scene. Is it a scene where all 23 people are in a wide shot talking about a single subject? Or is it a party scene of sorts where people are murmuring in the background of the actual content? Is there coverage of the people as opposed to just a wide of everyone at once or is(are) the camera(s) roaming around picking off people as it makes its way through the scene? 23 people speaking “at one time” in the same space would be a nightmare for post. So unless it’s a reality show or something non scripted, there’s a good chance it would be broken up in some way. I was once told we were going to do a shoot with 15 people talking at once - after the prep for it they ended up basically shooting 1 or 2 people at a time. I was ready for the worst but in the end It was quite easy to boom them one by one. So it could be something like that. If it does require 23 lavs - Jim is right. Make sure they get you more hands to help wrangle/lav and manage people and gear and that they plan for extra time needed.

Yep - spoke to them already. I’m not looking to recell any batteries at this time. While they were happy to recell any batteries I have, they wouldn’t give out any ‘trade secrets.’ I have seen work they’ve done recelling Anton Bauer batteries and they do a great job. Just not what I’m looking for. Through trial and error I think I found my answers. For anyone interested in my findings: •There are 4 screws in the corners at the top and bottom under the label. • there is an adhesive/bonding throughout the entire seam of the caseing. If you don’t easily find a starting point in the seam you will damage the caseing. And even If you do get a starting point - the other side will be very difficult to get off without damaging. • if you can’t get through the adhesive you will most likely damage the caseing. Cheers Ps. For some reason phone formatting is making part of this post bold/large. That’s not intential.

That sounds like an excellent project. That would be incredibly useful. Did the external mod work out well?

I agree that txsound video is awesome.

Glen have you done this before? Did you do anything to soften the adhesive? i have electronic prying tools but the adhesive seems to stop them from getting in and to do their job - or being able to slide through the seams at all. I imagine it’s actually plastic bonding?

In taking it apart, are there tabs that need to be undone or is it two pieces that slide together and are just held by the adhesive? I dont mind having to glue it together. My question is if “you can take it apart carefully without destroying it” - what is the best method to do so?

That seems to be the only video I can find regarding this topic (I originally found it on this forum). While this was helpful for some things, unfortunately, that person is pretty much destroying the casing and then just glueing it all back together. I'm hoping there's a way to open the casing that doesn't involve breaking it apart.

Has anyone had any luck opening an np-l7s battery without cracking/bending or tearing apart the plastic casing? I have one that works fine but has something rattling around inside so I want to get in there. I know there’s the 4 screws but is the plastic bonded together as well? If you’ve had luck - what was your method? If this has been discussed before I couldn’t find any answers. Thanks

without opening the connector - i believe newer trams have a red band to signify positive bias. Negative bias would not have anything. Older trams used to have a little mark on the head (opposite grill side) that had either a + sign for positive bias or nothing (possibly a - in some cases?) to show negative bias.

First it's coveted ears... and now best thread. I'm honored. Enjoy the beeps!

Jason - I tried different leads and different power cables. No difference there. :/ Thanks for the images and instructions Dean. This will be a project for my next day off.

I wish I could say my ears were THAT good! Haha I'm thinking it's not the LCD whine you're talking about though. It doesn't seem to correlate with the LCD changing. Rather, it's more a direct 'press button' -> get a beep through the output. - like the digital watch example. Thanks Peter - glad someone else has heard it. Since its not something hindering my recordings I'm not really worried about it either. I'm just curious about it.

I figured there wasn't a beeper built into the 411. In regards to the physical squeak - it's only audible through the 411's output. I wouldn't hear a squeak from pressing the button if the unit was off or not running through something with headphones. The LCD screen whine you speak of sounds like the closer match. Though, rather than a whine, it's definitely a short beep - like a very faint Casio watch beep. If it makes a difference, it makes the beep at the home screen as well (where the select buttons do not affect the LCD)