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nch

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About nch

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  • Location
    london
  • Interested in Sound for Picture
    Yes
  • About
    what ever I'm asked to.
  1. MKH50, Sennheiser vs Rycote mount?

    With comments about bands failing and needing to be correctly tensioned the Rycote sounds like £40 well spent. The Sennheiser will make a good back up I guess. I do make a conscious effort not to dwell on the kit John but having to fiddle with my mount dose't help. Rods?
  2. MKH50, Sennheiser vs Rycote mount?

    I see, sounds like the the reliability might justify the purchase alone. Thanks for the advice guys.
  3. MKH50, Sennheiser vs Rycote mount?

    Swinging it about a bit at home it doesn't jump out as a problem so far. Can the elastics be a pain? I've not owned one before.
  4. I just bought a MKH50 and it comes in a box with a suspension mount and some other bits. The suspension mount is one of the older designs with the elastic bands. I’ve not used a MKH50 before but have heard folk complain about handling noise and I’m wondering if it’s worth picking up one of the Rycote Invision mounts, the 7 is the one for the 50 I believe. They're not very expensive so if it's an improvement then it’ll be well worth while but if it’s just the same game in another shape it’s money in the wind. Anyone have any experience with the two and can comment if they noticed a difference?
  5. MixPre-6 or a second hand 552?

    Hi Rick, thanks for the help. No time code would be a deal breaker. I was thinking of using the little Tentacle boxes but I’m not sure if it would work with this set up, depending I guess on which recorder I used but it’s have to be one of the budget ones to make the whole think make sense. Zoom’s and all there kin are missing limiters, so without a mixer they would be no good for me. Time code can be done on the MixPre 3-6 with the little Tentacle boxes too I was thinking. For power the MixPre’s also can come with an L type battery sled and I can knok up something for the others if I need to. I just saw the MixPre 10T in the next thread after I posted this and the time code is nice but it’s just under £2000 and I cant really justify the money for more tracks that I don't really need at the moment, also a use 633 on eBay goes for about the same price. I guess one of the MixPre’s is the best way to go for now.
  6. I need to buy a new mixer/recorder set up, we’ve been recording dialogue, ambient and wild for shorts. The new SD MixPre 3 and 6 look great but the MixPre 6 round here goes for about £950 and I can pick up a SD 552 for a bit less than this second hand. I’m unclear on how practical the onboard recoding of this unit really is but it could be paired with a budget recorder, Steve Oakley has a little video where he syncs the 552 up with a Tascam DR680. This would bring it up to about £1100 or £1200 which is the top end of what I should really spend and the 552 is quite an old model now I think. The size and simplicity of the MixPre is very appealing but also appealing is the idea of having the versatility of the 522 with the extra channels and routing options for things that I may need in the future. Spec sheet wise the new Pre amps in the MixPre have a range of 120 and the 552 pre’s have 102, I also found some posts complaining that the limiters in the MixPre’s are quite aggressive. Anyhow that’s all I got and it’s just spec sheet speculation really, I’m a novice so thought I come here and see if anyone had any advise.
  7. 4-pin Hirose

    Thanks for all the replies guys. Sorry about the delayed response. I must have messed with my settings so I didn’t know about the posts. Yes I’m hell bent on making my own cables like many bits of kit that are easy to put together and once I set it up it takes very little time to make my own and they can be exactly to my needs, there strait away and much cheaper. I’ve yet to find some DC cable to the exact specifications but I’ve found some that are in the ball park and ordered a bit to try. But as Derek mentioned its finding wire so thin for the connectors yet still thick enough to make a good fitting. I could get around that with lots of heat shrink but would rather just find the right cable and buy a bunch of it if possible. Thanks for the directions for the Canare cable in the UK too, though the places mentioned only stock a limited range and not the one Derek was talking about. I’ll try calling them up and also the two chaps you mentioned Malcolm to see if they can help or point me in the right way.
  8. 4-pin Hirose

    Thanks for help. Canare mic cable looks perfect but as I said it's a US product. No available over here in the UK as far as I can tell. The availability of Audioroot stuff in the UK is very limited also, no cable of any kind that I can find but you guys did make me realise I should be searching for mic cable not DC power and I've got a few hits that are pretty close so I ordered some and will give a go, if anyone dose come on here who's over in the UK and knows of some cabling they have been using that fits those connectors pleased do let me know.
  9. 4-pin Hirose

    I tried a few searches on the forum and elsewhere but got nothing which I was surprised about as I think Sound Devices used these damn plugs all over the place. The connectors are 0.4mm and I need to find some cable with thin enough wires inside to make a DC power cable. The only thing I found was a chap on you tube in America using a type of microphone cable but it’s not available over here in the UK. Has anyone over here run into this problem and know of where to get some suitable cable for this purpose?
  10. Great, and that's a solid enough looking connection. Thanks for all the advice guys.
  11. I'll email "inmusicbrands" about the recorder and see exactly what the requirements are. Yes but the charger and cabling will mean it's not going to be the cheapest of the solutions and I feel if I'm going to invest in a system like this it'd be nice to make it a single battery for the whole bag. I'm unsure about this Step up/step down noise problem thought. The 600g V-mount is something I would like to avoid really, it's just been a point of reference. What work comes with these batteries? The charger is a docking plate and there seems to be a connection similar to that on a laptop battery from looking at the pictures. Do I need to buy plates to fit into the sound bag to mount them on? I'm struggling with their web site too learn more and can find nothing elsewhere about these batteries.
  12. Something happened to Marantz. The specifications and other links stopped working on the PDM661 MK2 page. I message them and got a reply saying something about a shuffle in departments of something. They did provide a rather strange forwarding address for question about this recorder and I shall get back onto them if needs be. I did find the AC power supply and on the back it says the same as on the back of the device: "OUTPUT : 5V DC 1.5A." Is this not enough? Could the DC power requirements from a battery pack be different? Perfect power bank territory as is. I'm just making up a cable now and will run a test tomorrow to see how long the 10000 mAh one I got for Christmas lasts to get a real idea of running times. I came across those Smart Batteries in another post on here, it was yourself I believe. Anyhow I kind of skipped over them. I've got soldering irons and multimeters and bits of wire all over my desk as I'm trying my best to learn this stuff but your DIYing sounded a bit advanced to me with break out boxes and battery data displays as I recall. I think you threatened to put up a thread or video showing how you went about it, did you ever find the time to do so? I for one would be interested to see. The V-mount would cost the same as the Smart Battery with the charger but the Smart Batteries are much lighter. The IDX 73W is 600g and the RRC2040-2 72W is 355g! What are the connections like on the RRC batteries? Or is it just wires and you make up your own cabling and sockets for them? Someone else on a DIY forum has pointed out these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-D-Cell-Battery-ER34615H-/172556116637?hash=item282d25629d:g:HLYAAOSwuxFYtuXb 2 in series in a little holder like this: http://www.batteryholders.com/part.php?pn=BH2DW&original=D&override=D I'm not even sure what kind of battery these are? I'm in the UK by the way.
  13. Ah, I see. NP-F back on the menu then. I have a V-mount system for the camera and I found a 73W from IDX at a respectable 0.6Kg and £130 on line. The more expensive options you mention look great but I have to prioritise my money elsewhere and for my little set up it's probably over kill. The V- mount is a stretch. I'm going to do some tests with the NP-F batteries and the power-bank, see if it brings me round. The shape of it makes for easy storage in the bag, it's got that in it's favour I suppose.
  14. I messaged Sound devices and they got back to me with this: "Thank you for contacting Sound Devices. The newer MixPre-D requires 10-17 volts. The original MixPre definitely requires less voltage (5 to 14 volts). Your MixPre should work fine with the 7.5-volt batteries. However, if the batteries are starting at just 7.5-volts, they may quickly get into the minimum voltage requirement of the MixPre (around 5 volts). You would get a longer running time and have less stress if you were to supply 10+ volts to the MixPre from an external source, as you would not already be at the lower limit for operating voltage. I would recommend a slightly higher-voltage battery so that you will have reserve voltage when you encounter extreme cold, humidity, heat or other factors that may reduce battery life." I'm not a fan of using USB connection for my power in the bag. Seems like something that could come unplugged too easily. The Sony's are going to be too week according to SD. I could use the battery plates for the Sony's that put out 12V but then I guess I'm going to be back into the problems with the step up on the Mix Pre and a dumb plate and a Step down on the Marantz. Without using something to change the voltage the only things I can think of is the V-mount which as you say seems like over kill.
  15. The Marantz is the PMD661 MK2 and the number are strait off the back of the device. However in the documentation it says 5 hours operation time for the 4 internal AA batteries. I didn’t think the phantom would be a too much, thanks for clearing that up and giving me some numbers to work with. It’s the Mix Pre, the older one. So line out into the Marantz for recording, not a digital out. I’ve a couple of Sony plates with little boards in to step up to 12V I was going to use but I’ll get them out if it’ll run fine on 7.5V, especially if there is a risk of introducing noise. I could sew a pocket with two Sony plates at the bottom, one for each device with separate cables into the mixer pocket and the recorder pocket. I’m unclear on the “audio problems for the switching” point. Would a step down converter for the Marantz also introduce noise? Thanks for taking the time Chris, it appreciated.
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