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About nch

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    what ever I'm asked to.
  1. 4-pin Hirose

    Thanks for all the replies guys. Sorry about the delayed response. I must have messed with my settings so I didn’t know about the posts. Yes I’m hell bent on making my own cables like many bits of kit that are easy to put together and once I set it up it takes very little time to make my own and they can be exactly to my needs, there strait away and much cheaper. I’ve yet to find some DC cable to the exact specifications but I’ve found some that are in the ball park and ordered a bit to try. But as Derek mentioned its finding wire so thin for the connectors yet still thick enough to make a good fitting. I could get around that with lots of heat shrink but would rather just find the right cable and buy a bunch of it if possible. Thanks for the directions for the Canare cable in the UK too, though the places mentioned only stock a limited range and not the one Derek was talking about. I’ll try calling them up and also the two chaps you mentioned Malcolm to see if they can help or point me in the right way.
  2. 4-pin Hirose

    Thanks for help. Canare mic cable looks perfect but as I said it's a US product. No available over here in the UK as far as I can tell. The availability of Audioroot stuff in the UK is very limited also, no cable of any kind that I can find but you guys did make me realise I should be searching for mic cable not DC power and I've got a few hits that are pretty close so I ordered some and will give a go, if anyone dose come on here who's over in the UK and knows of some cabling they have been using that fits those connectors pleased do let me know.
  3. 4-pin Hirose

    I tried a few searches on the forum and elsewhere but got nothing which I was surprised about as I think Sound Devices used these damn plugs all over the place. The connectors are 0.4mm and I need to find some cable with thin enough wires inside to make a DC power cable. The only thing I found was a chap on you tube in America using a type of microphone cable but it’s not available over here in the UK. Has anyone over here run into this problem and know of where to get some suitable cable for this purpose?
  4. Great, and that's a solid enough looking connection. Thanks for all the advice guys.
  5. I'll email "inmusicbrands" about the recorder and see exactly what the requirements are. Yes but the charger and cabling will mean it's not going to be the cheapest of the solutions and I feel if I'm going to invest in a system like this it'd be nice to make it a single battery for the whole bag. I'm unsure about this Step up/step down noise problem thought. The 600g V-mount is something I would like to avoid really, it's just been a point of reference. What work comes with these batteries? The charger is a docking plate and there seems to be a connection similar to that on a laptop battery from looking at the pictures. Do I need to buy plates to fit into the sound bag to mount them on? I'm struggling with their web site too learn more and can find nothing elsewhere about these batteries.
  6. Something happened to Marantz. The specifications and other links stopped working on the PDM661 MK2 page. I message them and got a reply saying something about a shuffle in departments of something. They did provide a rather strange forwarding address for question about this recorder and I shall get back onto them if needs be. I did find the AC power supply and on the back it says the same as on the back of the device: "OUTPUT : 5V DC 1.5A." Is this not enough? Could the DC power requirements from a battery pack be different? Perfect power bank territory as is. I'm just making up a cable now and will run a test tomorrow to see how long the 10000 mAh one I got for Christmas lasts to get a real idea of running times. I came across those Smart Batteries in another post on here, it was yourself I believe. Anyhow I kind of skipped over them. I've got soldering irons and multimeters and bits of wire all over my desk as I'm trying my best to learn this stuff but your DIYing sounded a bit advanced to me with break out boxes and battery data displays as I recall. I think you threatened to put up a thread or video showing how you went about it, did you ever find the time to do so? I for one would be interested to see. The V-mount would cost the same as the Smart Battery with the charger but the Smart Batteries are much lighter. The IDX 73W is 600g and the RRC2040-2 72W is 355g! What are the connections like on the RRC batteries? Or is it just wires and you make up your own cabling and sockets for them? Someone else on a DIY forum has pointed out these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-D-Cell-Battery-ER34615H-/172556116637?hash=item282d25629d:g:HLYAAOSwuxFYtuXb 2 in series in a little holder like this: http://www.batteryholders.com/part.php?pn=BH2DW&original=D&override=D I'm not even sure what kind of battery these are? I'm in the UK by the way.
  7. Ah, I see. NP-F back on the menu then. I have a V-mount system for the camera and I found a 73W from IDX at a respectable 0.6Kg and £130 on line. The more expensive options you mention look great but I have to prioritise my money elsewhere and for my little set up it's probably over kill. The V- mount is a stretch. I'm going to do some tests with the NP-F batteries and the power-bank, see if it brings me round. The shape of it makes for easy storage in the bag, it's got that in it's favour I suppose.
  8. I messaged Sound devices and they got back to me with this: "Thank you for contacting Sound Devices. The newer MixPre-D requires 10-17 volts. The original MixPre definitely requires less voltage (5 to 14 volts). Your MixPre should work fine with the 7.5-volt batteries. However, if the batteries are starting at just 7.5-volts, they may quickly get into the minimum voltage requirement of the MixPre (around 5 volts). You would get a longer running time and have less stress if you were to supply 10+ volts to the MixPre from an external source, as you would not already be at the lower limit for operating voltage. I would recommend a slightly higher-voltage battery so that you will have reserve voltage when you encounter extreme cold, humidity, heat or other factors that may reduce battery life." I'm not a fan of using USB connection for my power in the bag. Seems like something that could come unplugged too easily. The Sony's are going to be too week according to SD. I could use the battery plates for the Sony's that put out 12V but then I guess I'm going to be back into the problems with the step up on the Mix Pre and a dumb plate and a Step down on the Marantz. Without using something to change the voltage the only things I can think of is the V-mount which as you say seems like over kill.
  9. The Marantz is the PMD661 MK2 and the number are strait off the back of the device. However in the documentation it says 5 hours operation time for the 4 internal AA batteries. I didn’t think the phantom would be a too much, thanks for clearing that up and giving me some numbers to work with. It’s the Mix Pre, the older one. So line out into the Marantz for recording, not a digital out. I’ve a couple of Sony plates with little boards in to step up to 12V I was going to use but I’ll get them out if it’ll run fine on 7.5V, especially if there is a risk of introducing noise. I could sew a pocket with two Sony plates at the bottom, one for each device with separate cables into the mixer pocket and the recorder pocket. I’m unclear on the “audio problems for the switching” point. Would a step down converter for the Marantz also introduce noise? Thanks for taking the time Chris, it appreciated.
  10. I’m trying to put together a power supply for my little sound bag. I have a Mix Pre and a Marantz and mostly have a MKH 416P 48 running out of it. Electricity is not my strong suite but this is what I’ve got so far. The Marantz is 5V at 1.4A so 7W but the Mix Pre I can find nothing on except that the DC is 5-18V. Someone on the Handyman forum calculated that it was about 3.75W from the batteries making a total of about 10W required. So for the whole day I need 90-100Wh battery. But there is the phantom power, dose this change the picture a lot? I presumed it was such a small amount it was negligible but I really don’t know. And though SoundDevices states 5-18V I’ve read in forums that it’s best to stay over 10V, is this correct? And what’s the amp draw from the Mix Pre, anyone know? At present I’m looking at one of these power banks with a step up cable to 12V for the Mix Pre, great convenient shape for the bag and cheap but will need to make something to lock the USBs in the sockets. That or using one of the battery plates I have knocking about for the Sony NP-F Batteries, solid connection, good charger and not too expensive. They go up to 60 Wh. Or a 95W V-mount, reliable but an expensive option. Any help or advice on what solution you guys have come up with would be most appreciated.
  11. lav compatibility?

    I understand. I certainly was not trying to judge or speculate on the quality of the audio from these numbers, only trying to understand what would work with what. Someone complained in another thread about one of his lavs not working with one of his transmitters. I asked if all lavs were compatible with all transmitters and was told no, they all have different power requirements. OST got back to me with this reply "OST-801 and 802, supply voltage is 1.3V to around 18V and 2-10V for the TL-40. All of the mics work very well with the G3.” Sennheiser say “Our G3 bodypacks provide 5-15V electret powering”. And Saramonic said ”3.2V-“ which leaves me guessing a bit. I'm starting to feel that maybe this is the wrong question though, what with none of the relevant numbers published and everyone looking at me a bit odd. This dose feel like it’s becoming a wild goose chase. I'll take the earlier advice for now and write to a manufacturer or ask about here with a specific compatibility question, should one arise, it looks anyway like the Sennheiser is the obvious choice for now, which seems to work with everything mentioned so far, the G3’s paired with the OST’s. I was going to buy the TL-40’s but it’s for use mostly under wardrobe or between little bits of that moleskin and a few people have mentioned that the 801/802’s would be better. I can only afford one set for now, which would be the most versatile? And I shall take some time and read up a bit on how exactly these microphones work. Thanks for everyone’s patience and advice.
  12. lav compatibility?

    after doing research and asking a lot of advice on forums. The most recommended models in my budget are the three different sets of transmitters and receivers I described in my first post and the OST lavs. But when I asked what would work with what people seemed not so sure. So what I'm asking is how to know what lavs will work with what transmitters. I could go through them asking if anyone has used them together and if they work and I appreciate how helpful people are but I thought it might be better to try an understand how to find out myself. I thought to try and understand the power requirements of the mics and what transmitters could support then, It's the only way I could think of going about it? You think within the industry the terminology is vague and the specifications inaccurate or is there more to bias voltage than simply knowing the transmitter's output and the microphone's requirements?
  13. lav compatibility?

    Sennheiser got back with 5-15V which is quite a broad range. I did look at the Rode as advised by someone on Redit but they looked large and heavy and a disagreement broke out as to whether they were any good, whether Rode were any good in general I think. Another claimed that the technology was simply not up to the job sound quality wise, another that they were to bulky. I'm a beginner and have never used Rode kit so I stayed out of it. Most have advise Sennheiser. A few Sony as being better built in the same price range and one chap said Saramonics, as a new one on the scene, from China was worth a closer look. But 3.2V seem awful low compared to the Sennheiser. I mailed OST and am waiting to find out what their different lavs use power wise.
  14. lav compatibility?

    The ME-2 Sennheiser mic is also listed as 7.5V operational voltage (stand alone). https://en-uk.sennheiser.com/mini-lavalier-microphone-clip-on-live-speech-vocals-instrument-miking-me-2 though I'm not sure what the stand alone part is about? Saramonics have replied with 3.2V phantom power.
  15. lav compatibility?

    Thanks Rick, the Sennheiser dose seem to work with everything and your right I've gotten my mic's mixed up for the specs. I've mailed Sony and Saramonics to see what they say. Sony and Saramonics list nothing it their specs about "bias voltage" or power of any kind apart from battery requirements, I'd like to see what they are as the units look like there more durable. I’m not sure. That was what was listed under the technical specifications for the Sennheiser EW 100-ENG G3 wireless kit. “Input voltage range Mic/Line: 1,8V/3,0V (SK100G2), Mic: 1,2V (SKP100G2)” I can find nothing listed as “output voltage” is this what I’m looking for? where did you get the 4.3V from?