mateuf

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About mateuf

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  • Birthday 01/01/1
  1. guess its the same as bostik/prestik. its widly used here to stick mics ( amongst other... ) to almost any uneven surface. consists of polyisobutylene
  2. Hi Jesse just wrapped a 5 weeks shoot with the mini. cant comment on how well it is holding the timecode internally, i went the tentacle route (one always on my deva, one always on the mini). these boxes are perfect for the small alexa mini rigs and they hold timecode incredibly well ( less than 0.1 frames drift after a 12 hours day ...). as mentioned, the tc connector on the mini is placed less than ideally, i had to make a small profile, right angled lemo plug. all in all a breeze with this setup.
  3. To tape down stubby/short chest hair i found a tape called Mepitac. Its a very soft, broad silicone tape that wont pull any hair when beeing removed. it doesnt stick too well, but mostly well enough, except for talents with heavy perspiration. on long chest hair it doesnt work.
  4. i had a m10 and some old dpa4060 lying around and put together a small rig that i can take with me on travels. really surprised how nice that sounds. the m10 delivers about 3volts, enough to power the dpa´s. the preamps sound more than ok for such a little box. and it runs half a day on 2 AA´s. the mics are mounted on a hd25. i replaced the 3.5mm jack mic input on the recorder with a less fragile connector . if you rip out the internal mics, there is enough space to put in small connector ( hirose in this case ). you will need something with 4 pins, as the original input is activated by shorting 2 contacts by the sleeve of the jack. and two short sound snippets, made with this rig streetkitchen chiang mai.mp3 atmo chiang mai.mp3
  5. hi michael, i used diy lifepo4 batteries for the last 2 years exclusively, but with lesser capacities ( 20 ah ), put in small pelicases. weight reduction is stunning and they proofed to be at least as robust as sla's i did the first pack with just 4 plain cells in series, no protection board. i cannot recommend this at all, as the cells will absolutely die , especially when overdischarged. also, the cells voltage will drift over time, reducing the effectively usable capacity. so, some sort of balancing circuit is recommendable. the places selling those cells are usually carrying a variety of different protection circuit boards in their sortiment, also pcb's with integrated balancing circuits, which i use ( eg. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5175 ). generally, lifepos need a slightly higher end charge voltage than sla's. as chargers i use ctek car chargers with 14.7v end charge voltage, which are primarily laid out for leadacid, but will charge lifepos ok. never tried a designated lifepo charger as there was no need until now. i guess the powermax chargers will be ok, as they are also designed to charge sla's. they might not charge the battery to a full 100% , but they wont damage the cells due to a slightly low end charge voltage. the discharge curve of lifepos is very flat and voltage under load is quite stable. so, a topped off battery will start around 13.4v and then quickly settle around 12.8v , from where it drops towards 12v until nearly empty. the voltage drop in the end is very steep, so if voltage falls under 12v, the battery is basically flat. marco
  6. re LewisOB: i made similar experiences. there are red accessoires made by "action products" that display bnc connectors for timecode, genlock and many others in a more convenient manner on the camera. which is a good thing, the setups are very tidy. did a feature on epic last summer where it was absolutely impossible to get a clean scratch to cam via senn g3. my rf explorer just showed a impressively massive band of rf signal across the whole spectrum, more or less blacking out the screen when getting close to the camera. for a test, we stripped down the camera to the point where the culprit could only be one of these accessoires. dont know exactly where and how this happened, but one of this things killed more or less everything relying on rf around the camera ( redmote included ). a thing to consider if a scratch on camera is important. on all the others shoots without this accessoires the g3 worked as it should greets
  7. enjoy, in case you dont know this already... :-) http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ekSglGgaGws&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DekSglGgaGws
  8. as someone pointed out the teradek bolt.... we got this unit on set as main videolink from camera to a single receiver and from there to all the monitors by cable. as reach varies (5.8g and walls...), the receiver on a cstand is mostly very close to set or directly on set. and yes sir, its got a FAN that produces a high pitched whine. no problem when shooting outside next to a highway, but completely impossible for quiet interior scenes.
  9. hi larry, out of pure interest: how does a bigger/smaller deviation affect the quality of the transmitted audio ? better/worse s/n ? i use both systems, us and eu, and they sound identical, as far as my battered ears can hear :-).. or maybe the difference ist negligible under real world conditions...or just noticeable when improperly modulated ( too low ) ? best marco
  10. hi , just stumbled over this thread. some months ago i bought one of these transcend pata-ssd´s jim mentioned above . at least in my case it wasnt recognized by the deva ( tried with zaxcom and remote audio caddies ) . deva5.8 / fw7.55 best wishes marco teufen
  11. hi, i use the lanclogger as replacement for the bigger clockits on all those small cameras. it works as accurately as every other clockit and the cameraguys love it, of course... ( small and light ). ambient is about to come out with a new design of these small units, might be the lanc logger will soon be discontinued....http://www.ambient.de/en/news/detailpage/article/TINY-LOCKIT.html and yes, the battery door is quite odd :-) it took me about 10mins to figure out how it works on first sight. but in the end it was just brute force, paired with a slight twist. the unit runs 12h+ on a pair of good aaa-alkalines. didnt test rechargeables so far, i guess they will not last for a whole day.
  12. short update. also, the 1ac complains about bad range with his wireless focus ( 2.4 ghz arri ). this camera just seems to spit out quite massive broadband rf trash. cure: sennheiser sk250/ek3041 ( 250mw) for scratchtrack. additionally, the timecode bleeds in the audiotracks and there is a rythmic clicking noise on the audiotracks, generated by the cam. -> everything audio on and around this cam is useless. at least, syncing with tc works as it should, with an attached all601 greets
  13. hi eric , tried several other frequencies across the block, no difference. dont have access to other blocks atm. moving the rx away from the cam is not really an option, as the whole shoot is handheld with no cables coming from the cam. video over a canatrans, which is on a safe frequency much lower.
  14. all of the above. three days into my first feature with this cam, and i hate it. do we really have to get used to this ?
  15. just started a shoot on epic and planned to send a scratch for dailies wireless to the cam. it turns out that its quite impossible to get a clean signal onto the cam because of rf trouble. the attached receiver displays a heavy rf signal as soon as the cam is switched on and the receiver comes close to the red. massive blasts of noise all over...... director, script etc get the same feed and their signal is clean. coming from a shoot with alexa, where the same setup worked without problems. just wanted to know if someone of you experienced something similar or succeeded in operating receivers on the epic best m