rich

dont use the boost feature. it adds 30dB of gain. but. (at least on the last time i used one many years ago) it doesnt remember that you have activated the boost function, so will need to be re-done EVERY time you power up the mic. which if your mic is in a blimp suspension is a real pain. if you are able to keep your signal chain digital, then there shouldnt be a penalty adding the gain back in at your recorder. also, i generally found i was using 22-28dB of gain when i was using my SCMIT, so 30dB was too much anyway.

yeah. i got one almost 2 years ago now i like it. much nicer display than the rf explorer. and a little more intuitive to use. it forgets your last used settings before you switch it off. but you can save presets for the frequency ranges / settings you want to look at. certainly a useful bit of kit to see what else is going on rf wise around you. and much better than the scan display on most receivers available these days.

theP-11XBP wont be able to charge a battery in there. phantom power doesnt supply enough current to do much more than power a mic - around 4ma. i charge my NiMh batteries at 300ma. the battery in the barrel is there if what you are plugging the mic into cannot supply phantom power. and if you are using rechargeable batteries, put fresh ones in every day, rather than live with the anxiety that the battery will die whilst you are using it. it has been many many many years since i used a hard wired lav, especially one with the in line XLR adapter, and based on that i dont imagine many others have used them either. if you want to know how long the battery lasts, thats easy enough to test for yourself. my money is on a week.

you can set the transmitter to resume record on power up. so as long as you have sent the transmitter a record command previously, it will start recording when you switch it on. you have about 2 hours of timecode battery backup without a battery fitted. but you should have much longer with a battery in, but with the unit powered down. and you will need to manually jam each unit with timecode if you dont have a Nexus. but you should only need to do that once a day. there is no nexlink control in the A20 receiver. you will need a Nexus or Nexus Go for that. but you can group record all transmitters that are in range via the app. and the transmitters can be paired to multiple devices. though only controlled by one. and things sometimes get a bit tricky currently if you are in a busy area with lots of other bluetooth things about.

how does automix / ai know the difference between dialogue and someone thumping their chest for emphasis, or putting their coat on and making their radio noisy for a bit where they arent talking? or know when to dip the radios and raise the boom level a touch for a hug? there is still a need for a mix to be done live on set. and for that mixer to understand the need to make the mix sound like it looks. fortunately now, post has the opportunity to rework all the elements we give them down the line, rather than only have the 1 mix track. and whilst that may take some of the pressure off of our job, i would hope that doesnt lessen the relevance and importance of our job.

that isnt a fault of the battery eliminator. thats because of the background / competing rf on your transmitters frequency. that said. i do tend to leave my IEM transmitters running over lunch to avoid the potential occurrence of that issue, because its easier to do that than retune 15 receivers.

and the script supervisor. and the AD and the producers and their pals and your team and the editor it aint getting to sound post for months. i like that i dont need to ask to go again because i missed a fade. but if i didnt nail it, they are listening to that mistake for those few months until it gets to the dialogue editor, so i still need to get it as right as i can on the day.

the EW-D will power itself back up if you pull the batteries without powering the unit down. also, beware that the battery eliminator for the G3 / G4 wont work with the EW-D because the batteries are oriented differently for the two systems. Evolution wireless have the +ve terminals both facing the same way. EW-D have the +ve terminals facing in opposite directions. so the terminals of the G3 battery eliminator at best wont line up with the terminals of the EW-D, and at worst, may short out.

i have only used the Sony BX1. at 10mw they get at most 4 hours continuously. when i first got the A20 mini, i tried some other brand batteries, and nothing got within half an hour of the Sonys. i have no intention of using non rechargeable batteries unless in an emergency situation and have never tested them. you'll get a bit more run time out of lithium AAA's. but if you need more runtime, then either the battery doubler, or the full size A20 are the way to go.

i have both units. though my A20TX are intended to be used for booms. only on talent as a last resort if you are using a Nexus too, you can power down the A20 mini in between setups to save battery life. though that depends on what format shows you are working on. or you can get a battery doubler to extend your battery life. for cast micing, there isnt much you will be missing function wise with the A20mini compared to the A20TX. though the A20TX has a display, and removable media. though everything on both units can be controlled via the app and the nexus. i havent put the A20TX next to an SMWDB to compare size, but the specs are easily found on both manufacturers websites. sound wise, i am very impressed with mine. not needing to adjust gain at the transmitters is pretty damn cool too. on my last job, the systems handled gunfire and lots of shouting without issue - i just brought the gain down on the recorder and it held up fine.

i dont own a Nova, but since this is the internet, i'm going to answer some of this anyway. for the DB15, i'd recommend getting a custom cable made up to suit what you need. i've no doubt your usual equipment supplier can sort you out. unless you are in the UK, then send me a message. your recording media is one of the most important parts of what you do. can you be 100% sure that an adapter wont cause you any problems at some point in the future?

many many years ago, i made up some cables so that i could get a timecode feed from camera on my umbilical to my 788T. because i used the 442 spec of wiring for a 10 pin Hirose, i used pin 7 for the timecode signal. because i had, initially, used an SQN umbilical, which was made on the assumption of balanced audio returns, i had timecode bleed on the right return. i then bought some VanDamme 4 pair cable (and subsequently Mogami) , and wired it so that it still had the same pin outs as the 442 spec, but - and here is the important bit, the audio return (pin 5&7) were on a pair of cables, and the timecode was on a pair (6&8). this significantly reduced the timecode bleed on the return. i then modified my SQN umbilical by swapping pins 6 and 7 at both ends of the cable, which made that cable usable with a timecode return as well.

A lot of their rack mount gear can be ordered with an XLR4 input instead of mains. Email them to check wether what you are interested in can have this done. though, for some reason, some of their units that come with an XLR4 use pin 2 for +ve rather than pin 4 and they claim not to be able to change this. thoigh it’s easy enough to open them up and make a connection between pin 2 and 4 of the XLR so you don’t need to use a specific cable for it.

i have everything in a Peli IM2300 case with some trek pak, and some zip up pouches in the lid held in with velcro it has the mics, transmitters, belts and pouches, batteries and my assistants accessories box. the lid pouches have a load of fluffy and sticky bits the case does not live on my cart. it goes on the follow magliner so it is ready for the 2nd assistant sound (who mostly takes care of the radio mics in the UK). the idea is that it should have pretty much everything you might need to mic someone in one place and one box. and none of the boom transmitters are in that box! i'll try and take a picture next week once i am back with my kit.

i had to double check the manual about that, as its been a while since i used one.

the problem with the gain boost is that you have to activate it every time you re power the mic. i ended up just increasing the gain at the mixer, which is a better option, as you dont always want 30dB extra gain, and the boost also means the limiter can kick in 30dB lower than you might want.

Micron radio mics (who Aldo the Audio Wireless designer used to work for) allowed you to power your receivers via the SMA connectors.

they perform great. i have not noticed any noticeable difference since swapping from my A10 to A20 mini for cast radios. the A20 mini are handling the quiet and loud sounds from cast equally well. but without the necessity of changing gain on the tx to get good levels at the mixer, which makes my workflow, and that of my team sooooo much less stressful. when testing, the noise floor sounded fairly similar between an A20 mini with 45dB of gain on an A10rx, and an A10 with 22dB of gain and 23db of gain at the mixer. my normal settings for A20 mini are 24-28dB and A10rx at 0, and A10 tx at 22dB with between 0 and +4 at the mixer.

given that you can control the Nexus via its web app. can you plug your midi gain controller into your laptop connected to the nexus via the ethernet port and have its controls mapped to control the gain of each nexus channel?

i use Mogami 2901for any cables i need to make with 00.303 Lemo but i use the FGB.00.303.CLAD27 because i prefer the cable clamp part, rather than the crimp connector as it seldom grips the cable properly.

its probably being picked by some of the cabling. did you add something new 1-2 years ago? easiest work around is keep your phone away from your recording equipment. its general good practice, and what we all used to do way back when. we've all gotten a bit complacent about that recently as newer equipment is generally better shielded against RF form phones than the older stuff (though i can still occasionally pick it up if my phone cant find 3G and up)

As long as your body is not between the transmitter and antennas, the extra height will be a good thing.

i would give that a go. if that doesnt work, swap the red and blue wires. i think fig 2 could work too, but you'll need to connect one of the colour wires to pin 1

whilst i cant properly answer your question as i dont have any sennheiser plug on transmitters. but i do have the MMP-B and MMP-C pre amps, and have no issue using either with my A10 tx. or straight into my recorder. do you have a volt meter so you can verify that you can see 48v on pins 2 and 3?

I’ve had A20s form as soon as they were available. Since then I have only had to replace one battery door clip. and since they changed the seal on the door so it doesn’t disintegrate, there have been no other issues.