Johnny Karlsson

Woke up to the email this morning. New license granted. $95. 10 days from application date. Expiration date: 12/01/2030.

FWIW - I use both Ladda 2450 and Eneloop Pro. I don’t know if they are exactly “the same”, but it doesn’t matter. They both work similar in practice, so all good.

Thank you, Tim! Very good info. I will do the same.

Hmmm - “Paid Annually”. ?

From what I know , and is available right now, I would recommend taking a look at Meon Life from RA, or the Zeus system from PSC. For extended power backup, check out Jackery.

Could this be the clue? I could be wrong, but didn’t Sennheiser make the 50 more RFI proof when they switched to gold connectors?

You can route the return to ch 7-8 to have full return meters. (Take them out of the mix bus of course). Once you get used to the 8-series, you’ll see it has way more flexibility in terms of routing.

Update: today there was an email from the FCC…. Application denied, because there had been no payment made. Yes, I checked yesterday if there was any fees due, but it said there’s “no fee data found”. ok….? And then there was four additional emails from the FCC in my inbox. And those were copies of the first email. I guess it would be too much to ask, but how about an email first saying “there is a fee required to process your inquiry. Please click this link to pay the fee in order to proceed with your application.” Or something to that effect.

Thank you, Tim! I just checked, and mine says “No Fee Data Found” and the application on the Licensing Manager page is “pending”. Oh well - If it turns out it’s $380, I will cancel and go the new application route.

Yeah, it's like a parody of itself.

FWIW - I submitted without paying anything. Then someone from FCC emailed me regarding the waiver/attachment thing and said I had checked a box indicating that I had “grandfather” status or something(?) and it was unclear if my attachment should be removed. I replied and explained that I was simply trying to renew my existing license, apologized for having missed the expiration date in December, and that I never received a reminder to extend or renew. With their help I found the application (yeah it was somehow on a different page), and resubmitted it. I attached a letter with my explanation rather than a form. I replied to their email again saying I had submitted it in the best way I could understand it to be correct, but please advise if I’m missing something. Then they replied saying “you’re good”. But I am still not sure , because there was no way to submit a payment at this point. I guess I will log in at some point in the next few weeks to check if anything has been updated.

Hahahaaaa - you guys... yeah, I'm Swedish too, but nej tack to surströmming. Some aficionados swear it tastes really good, even though it smells like barf from a mile away. Ok, back to the batteries. I will actually be dropping them off directly at the IDX warehouse in the city of Carson, since I have a job in that direction Friday, and they told me on the phone that they do accept recycling there (different address than their office).

The two I’m talking about are from 2011, so while it is a bummer, I think we got our money’s worth out of them hah! I’ll look into this. Thank you! (Looks like the suite # is listed online as 154).

Yes yes of course… what else would one use them for ? Interesting - Home Depot showed up when I searched the link above and put in my zip code. So did Staples, and some “safe recycling center”….

Is there any easy / convenient way to safely dispose of old used Lithium battery packs? I have a couple of IDX NP-L7S that are over a decade old and they started acting a bit weird, and not holding the full charge when sitting unused for a while. I just now took one off the charger after it seemed like it was taking too long. And it was HOT to the touch, so needless to say - I do not want to use this anymore. Googling only returns the safety papers from IDX and not much else other than where you can buy them (but looks like they are discontinued now since the NP-9X has taken over). EDIT: I got a little more creative with the searches, and found this for anyone interested: https://www.call2recycle.org/locator/

From what I know about LSC consignment, I believe they check/test everything before putting it up on the display for sale. In addition, I think they also give you 30 days return policy, which means you can test it and if it's not working properly, you could return.

Oh my.... I just tried renewing mine, and the FCC site is asking for $415.00 ! Has anyone done their renewal lately, and could you tell me if this is really correct? Seems like a very steep bump from the $170.00 I payed just 3-4 years ago. In my mind a renewal would be reasonably less - I mean, the first application was already approved and the license thus already existing. It's possible I made a mistake somewhere in the application, so just wondering if anyone can verify.

AES digital cables are 110 Ohms and slightly different.

Exactly. But also see henrimic’s comment above.

In order to connect them, and have them talk to each other, you initially need to connect a computer and use the Dante Controller software to set up the routing.

I have done pretty extensive research shopping around for switches. The thing that is frustrating is that Audinate recommends using an unmanaged switch, but also one without EEE. It seems pretty much all unmanaged switches have EEE these days, and since they are not managed, there’s no way to disable that feature. My small setup is just within the cart, and so far, I have had zero problems with a Netgear GS105. But lately, I only plug the switch in to do any changes to the setup in Dante Controller. Otherwise, I just keep the devices (888, 3x DSQD, 1x AVIO w/ XLR outs powered via a POE Injector) connected to each other in a daisy-chain without the switch. And even though not recommended, I have run Wireless Designer simultaneously without hiccups, so YMMV as they say. Even though I had no issues, but because knowing that this is not recommended, I was uneasy about using this switch, and at one point ordered a similar one that had the ability to turn off EEE . For some reason, that particular switch was not playing nice with my setup at all. Could have been I received a faulty unit, but I just went back to the Netgear switch and all has been well for about two years since. I just ordered the Linovision mentioned above to see if that works. Would be cool if I could lose the POE injector and go straight from this switch to the AVIO instead. If this works, I’ll keep the Netgear switch for WD only.

Keep in mind, if you’re comparing rates with a plumber: We quote on a guaranteed 10h day, and that means 8h of straight time + 2h at x1.5, so the plumber’s day rate would equal $80 x 11 = $880/day . However, a plumber can go around and do several jobs in a day, every day of the week, and charge extra for emergency jobs on weekends and holidays. We get booked per day, because every job is completely different, with a vastly different equipment package each time. So there is always prep etc. Our day rate stays the same regardless , because if you book me, it means you bought my services for the day. Mainly because we simply can’t book two jobs in one day. This is also why there is no such thing as a “half-day” rate. Ever. - Early on when I started out, I tried booking two jobs in one day, and that lead to some serious problems, because the nature of any production is that things change. And they always change on the day of, at the last moment. Another example - with branded content, most of the time I get called in at 7am with everyone else, but sometimes they shoot stills and slow motion video all day while I’m in standby mode - ready to jump in at any moment - then at the end of the day, I roll on a single “interview” or some one liners for 10 minutes. That doesn’t mean I “only worked for 10 minutes”.

I'll add one more last thing: I do absolutely NOT recommend these for use in a Lectro Tx. I rolled on the last test and just spot checked it. There were loud pops intermittently towards the end of the file. Pop, then dead silence. Then it would come back on again. Then POP again. On and off a few times, so that would mean usable run-time is likely about 4h. After that it would be scary. I'm guessing this has to do with what Larry mentioned (the switching power supplies trying to figure out what to do with each other once the voltage starts dropping). So meh - sticking to my eneloops.

You have that backwards. The transmitter draws more current at a lower voltage. And for real runtimes, there was no significant difference in the tests I did. Feel free to believe me or not, or run your own tests. I'm done with this topic. I just wanted to share my findings for anyone who cares. Not here to "win" an argument. Cheers !

Same device (SMV) : yes. Different battery designs = same draw : no. Read Larry's post above. the SMV design allows it to run at full power, even when the AA has only 0.9V left, but in order to compensate for the low voltage, the transmitter draws "upwards of 0.6 Amps" at that voltage. Not sure what the current draw is at a full 1.5V (Larry?). And because this lithium AA stays at a constant 1.5V until it dies.... you get it.