Shastapete

Not the same, but similar versions Baby pin version: http://www.filmtools.com/carts-and-dollies/cart-accessories/magliner-5-8-side-baby-pin-mag-np-sd.html Dual side mast mount: http://www.filmtools.com/carts-and-dollies/cart-accessories/magliner-antenna-base-for-vert-cart.html

Any progress update on this?

2.4ghz is a frequency not a protocol. Wifi, Bluetooth, Zaxnet, and hundreds of other communications protocols operate within that spectrum

The IFB200 can control parameters of the receivers through the menu system on the IFB200, it can also transmit commands sent from a Zaxcom recorder by sending additional data over the LTC timecode stream. If you went with a QRX235 with the IFB board (or QRX100 with IFB) there is a bluetooth dongle and ZaxMote iOS software... but after the initial release it has all but been forgotten.

The Tensility connectors are too short, they'll fit, but they'll have a lot of play as the shank needs to be 12mm long, not 7.5

It is now marked Discontinued, must have been a firesale to clear old stock

I'm in the middle of a bag rebuild/rewire. You can get molded right angle BDS (and Zaxcom QRX) connectors with attached power cable. They are part number CARA761KS07984 from Switchcraft. They are $17 each, which stings when the regular connector is just $3.50, but I've been in a buy once cry once mood lately and I'd rather pay the premium to have exactly what I want in my bag

Not so much music as burst of LF sine wave

so you'll want a dynamic mic, the SM58 is allegedly good up to 180dB but you'll need an inline pad as well as treat it as a line level signal. The electrical output of the SM58 at 160 dB SPL is +10 dBV or 3.2 volts. For reference 0.775 volts is equal to 0 dBu or -20 dBFS. That and usually in these "dB drag racing" situations the car needs to be air tight, so you won't be able to sneak an XLR out the door. So if you "need" the sound inside the car, you'll want some sort of recorder that can sustain that environment and vibration. What is most likely is you'll just need audio from outside the car. It'll still be loud as hell, but significantly lower than inside the car, You'll be pushing the limits of your gear but you won't need anything special (other than an inline pad) I'd suggest something like this on your boom, just incase "all the way down" is still too loud - http://www.sescom.com/product.asp?item=SES-MULTI-PAD

What cart? I don't see any carts

I also just got the iPhone 7, it replaced an iPhone 4S that reached software EOL this fall. But after years of hard use it was ready to be replaced new software or not. My whole house is apple. Air Tunes speakers, appleTV, iphones, ipads, and macbooks. so staying in the eco system was the main reason for my update. But the big reason I've stuck with apple for the past 15 years is that their stuff lasts a long time. 5 years with the iphone 4s, 5 1/2 years on my laptop, 4 years on the ipad mini. With any PC or android phone I feel like they have 2 year clock and they are totally done when it runs out

recently stumbled across this thing. It is a 4 input switcher (with 4 headphone outputs) only about $30. Reviews say it is susceptible to ground loops, but shouldn't be much of a problem unless you are also feeding in hardwired camera returns https://www.amazon.com/LINE5-Multi-channel-Headphone-Switcher-Amplifier/dp/B00HA11KFQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477363348&sr=8-1&keywords=headphone+switch

The "official" cable is $16 on amazon. Stereo in on a 1/8" jack. Then you can slap a comtek, erx, tentacle sync, whatever on the camera. Not worth $100 for the kit. $16? Maybe. https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-3-5mm-Adapter-Official-Accessory/dp/B00A3MY7L8

Where did you order these from? they look great

I always enjoy your videos Simon, looking forward to watching them.

https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/media/release/20160909-02 I wonder how long it'll take before they make moves towards production sound

SMBus I2C is just serial communication. You'd need something to decipher it and something to display the decoded information. Arduino is an application and compiler that runs code on common microprocessors. You could use a $3 ATtiny85 chip that's a centimeter square driving some status LEDs, so "size" is as big as you make it.

Nice knobs! Kishor, friend, you need to work on your posting. Not sure if it is a translation issue, but you keep using the 'tags' field for your content

I've literally said it 100 times now, the worst thing with this recorder is the name printed on the top of it. You won't find any other company offering an 8 channel recorder for $1000. The preamps are good, the options are decent, the timecode clock (when powered) is stable. This does not replace higher end equipment offered by Sound Devices or Zaxcom, but this is a huge leap forward for the low-mid range professional market. It has faults, but it is leaps and bounds ahead of anything else even close to its price range.

There is no battery/capacitor/power source that remains active if the Zoom F8 is powered off. This isn't something that can be fixed with a firmware update. the RTC is not timecode accurate. The "solution" is to put some AA batteries into the recorder to keep it alive between battery swaps. OR Connect a sync box to the timecode in and not have a problem.

looks like it uses a 48v DC power supply, wouldn't be too hard to get this running on cart power

Martin, A device cannot drift on its own unless it is being compared to another device keeping time. Every piece of timecode equipment has a level of precision: Sound Devices 688: ± 0.2 ppm (0.5 frames per 24 hours) Zaxcom Nomad: 1.54 PPM (1 frame out in 6 hours) Denecke TS-C: Typical ±0.2 ppm @ 23° C ±1 ppm @ -30° to +75° C Betso SBOX-1N: Temperature compensated oscillator (+/- 0.2 ppm) Less than 0.5 frames / 24 hours If you run them for 24 hours they'll all have slightly different values at the end of the day. Which one has the correct value? All of them? None of them? Did the 688 drift or did the Betso?

How is this related to the question that you original asked and that we all answered?

I think you are fundamentally confused about what drift is. Frames don't get lost or disappear, drift occurs because of the "disagreement" between the length of a frame between different pieces of equipment. The tiny clock inside our recorders, timecode boxes, and slates are typically of better quality (more precise) than those in cameras. Yet we still re-sync everything at lunch because of the inherent limitation of precision electronics. When something "loses 3 frames in a day" it just means the cumulative error in 24 hours puts it 3 frames behind. The reason cameras are notorious for slipping as they roll is because they only reference the precise clock from the LTC timecode box they are jammed with for information when they press record. This isn't a digital vs. analog issue, this is a precision issue