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Derek H

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Everything posted by Derek H

  1. Yes. Not a huge difference but the LMR240UF has a bonded foil shield in addition to the braid that makes it a little stiffer. Otherwise it’s very similar. Uses the same connectors. It’s a bit trickier to terminate because of the foil shield you kind of have to trim it back a little bit and it’s glued tight to the dielectric.
  2. That’s why my vote is for RG8X. Anything thicker is a bear to wrangle and arguably unsafe to lay down on a busy set unless you tape the crap out of it. You can deploy RG8x quickly and a good amplified antenna will overcome the loss for 120+ feet and it will work. If you need a lot more length than that then I would look for different advice. Maybe optical conversion? Don’t know?
  3. Wasn’t this already posted? RG8X would be my choice for a long run assuming you’re using a powered antenna.
  4. Thanks Larry! I’ll try to post a photo of what I end up with.
  5. A question for anyone who has done this mod. How did you attach the wires to the Venue main board? Just insert tinned wires into the existing jumper sockets? Remove the sockets and wire directly to the board? I’m thinking of using the original jumpers cut in half with wires soldered to it. Just worried about it breaking loose. Fool proof way would be to remove the sockets I guess. To further illustrate my dilemma.. the existing sockets are designed to make contact with a 0.025” square sided jumper. Not sure how reliably it would mate with a round piece of wire.
  6. Yeah no worries definitely got my money’s worth for years and then some with PAID
  7. I still use PAID but it’s pretty archaic at this point in life and buggy. The developer has basically retired and is no longer updating it or addressing crashing issues caused by Mac OS updates. I’ll still probably muddle along with it for awhile.
  8. What do you mean by as long as the impedance of the cables match the splitter? Beyond everything being 50-ohm type?
  9. I tried this with two Comteks. A BST-75 and a BST-50b using a mini circuits splitter in reverse to feed a phase right. It worked but I was using one of those channels to feed camera operators and they were getting some hits so I went with a different setup. It could Have been just random interference or not so random like wearing their receivers (PR75a) in close proximity to their various high powered wireless gear. There’s some loss (about 3dB I think with the two-way passive) so maybe that was the issue. Wasn’t able to nail it down in the time I had. The other combined channel was sending out to video village and no complaints there. I think it’s an idea worth exploring though and it seems like there could be some benefits. I would go for an active antenna combiner to eliminate the loss but finding one that works down to Comtek frequencies might be tricky. I always thought it’d be a good idea to try for a busy bag rig with camera hops and IFB transmitter/s to just combine the outbound RF and remote an antenna up to your shoulder or something and get it away from your receiver antennas. Maybe then you could just keep the whips on the receivers rather than a full antenna distro and see a similar range improvement. But a bag-friendly active antenna combiner doesn’t seem to exist.
  10. Yeah I think this is the biggest problem with dipping your toes into wireless video as a sound mixer.. the second the camera department has any issue with their wireless feeds they’re going to ask you (maybe demand) that you kill your cheap BS video transmitter because it’s causing their issue... Whether that’s actually the case or not. So you’re going to need a backup plan anyway. (BNC cable)
  11. I love the Sennheiser IEMs. Way under rated. If I could 100% trust them to get through a whole day without needing a battery change then they’d probably be my top choice. In my experience they usually make it but not always. They’re also easy to buy for under $500 most retailers will give you a discount if you’re buying a few. If anyone can make an IFB with a talkback channel built in now that would be interesting.
  12. This misses the mark for me. Here’s what I’m looking for in a next gen IFB: -under $400 per unit -survives drops - all day (14 hours) battery and ideally multi day - better audio than a comtek -some basic info on the receiver like an RF meter -wide tuning range -high power transmitter options -headphone Jack that works with standard stereo headphones
  13. Yeah I don’t really get it. The take away for me is just another reason Comteks are annoying. can you re-wire a Comtek so left/right are in phase?
  14. He’s referring to the way Lectro releases new products. Basically, without advance notice or teasers and fully formed and ready to buy/work.
  15. This is one area where I think Comteks fall short. They’re tricky to troubleshoot. If you need to problem solve random interference issues like this the receivers give you next to no info to work with. Without an external scanner it’s just a lot of guess work and trial and error.
  16. Richard, did you compare the Pearl MS8 to the MSH10?
  17. I’d love to do an AB test to listen but I’d say it’s more like great vs greater. Straight into the HM is very good if you ask me. Now if you’re talking about monitoring for the boom op then yes I’d say the mm1 is going to sound amazing compared to a comtek or even ifb.
  18. They sound better than R1a? How so?
  19. I wish it weighed less. Otherwise it’s a perfect, un-fussy plug on transmitter with very good sound quality. I have not A-B’d an HM (or other Lectro plug-on) vs the mm1 rig. I suspect it’s not a massive difference. The latter also forces you to use a cabled pole which isn’t always ideal.
  20. I used Steiner electric in Chicago. They laid out the hole pattern for the panel. It seems super solid and I’m not worried about it at all.
  21. It’s from 80/20. They cut the corners out and drilled and countersunk the holes. Rounded the edge as well. No think of like a 1/4” solid slab of hdpe with thin aluminum veneer on each side. Lighter than solid aluminum and less expensive but seems very solid. I think they just call it aluminum composite on their site.
  22. Amazing weather today.. finally found some time to dig into this cart project. Here’s about 3 hours work. First impressions... I like this T-slot stuff. Seems slightly fiddly at first but then gets really solid as you tighten things up. Pre-loading the hardware on things is the way to go. The panel material is called Alucobest and seems very solid. Basically a solid 1/4” slab of some kind of heavy duty plastic with very thin aluminum cladding on both sides. Hope it never catches fire cause I’m sure it will give me cancer. All of 80/20’s cuts and milling work was spot on and everything fit together easily. I used ‘central connectors’ in many places and I like them. They require special milling and you have to go through a distributor. Which I would recommend doing anyway. Sometimes it would be worth the extra money for the T-nuts with little spring balls to hold them in place... wasted a good chunk of time trying to locate the nuts just right for the bottom panel. Price came out to about the same as a converted magliner junior but I like this better and it has 10” wheels all around. Basically I wanted a camera case style cart but with modularity and my exact dimensions and I think I achieved that. Though not in the budget this year, the dimensions have rack drawers in mind and could be installed to either or both the long side and short side. Cheers, DH
  23. I don’t have the part numbers handy but just their standard 10” pneumatic casters. Two rigid, two swivel with foot brake. 4x4.5” plate mount I think. I think 80/20 charges less for a smooth drill through hole. I think it’s called an access hole in their parlance.
  24. I got all the stuff I ordered last week plus picked up an order from McMaster for casters and miscellaneous hardware. hoping to start building this weekend sometime.
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