Derek H

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About Derek H

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  • Birthday January 1

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    http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2660130/

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  1. I don't want a mic in my timecode gear. Why bother wasting so much time and effort for low-budget DSLR workflows. 99% of jobs I do shooting on DSLR they don't have a clue about timecode and they certainly don't want to pay extra for a slate or lockits. I either don't touch them at all or feed them a decent mix with a G3 (which works perfectly btw). Back to the nanolockit... Klaus, is there some way to ensure that your lockit setup doesn't get inadvertently hijacked by other lockits that might be in use by another nearby crew? like Zaxcom uses a group code for Zaxnet. Some kind of unique lockout password
  2. Cool! I really like Sketchup though it's been long enough now I think I've forgotten how to use it. For non-DIYers BEC group makes the same thing out of aluminum and is drilled with mounting holes to attach it to a bracket. More like $70-90 though but will last forever.
  3. I totally agree with both of these sentiments. There's value in using standard connections. Lost/broken/forgotten cables? Every AC on the planet will usually have a spare shorty BNC. With this thing it's all on you. Id also rather have AAs. Even if I had to change them every day. Good for TCS for making something small with genlock though. No one else has that.
  4. 400 mode emulation pretty please.
  5. Can it record to a bus-powered USB hard drive? I suspect not but would be nice. Single card slot is not my favorite spec.
  6. Totally agree. Especially with 24 bit recording a little extra headroom is fine.
  7. Are you guys mistaking VU metering for peak metering? The 6-series can display either or both. Personally, I use peak only. I trim the isos so they peak around -20dbfs or a bit above and have no issues. Using the same gear as you. Just turn down the trim!
  8. So curiosity got me and I bought two TARA3 connectors. I can confirm that the cable can exit at noon, 1 o'clock, 6 o'clock or 9 o'clock but not in between those ranges because it's keyed. Sort of goes together like a neutrik right angle. Doesn't look like it bites down too hard so cable size will be important. Something thicker than lav cable or a few layers of shrink might be required. I can take measurements later maybe if anyone is interested. Haven't decided what I think of them yet. Kind of chunky and not going to work well on a recorder input/output where space is limited. The clamshell pieces are all made of plastic and are thicker than they would have needed to be if they used metal, all metal would have been better I'd say. I do like them them better than the Lectro RATPAC option though and the price is better than those...
  9. I'd like to see your cable crimper piece.
  10. Looks cool, does the original cable crimp fit still or are you doing something different inside?
  11. Nice work! Do you do the machining yourself or do you have use a shop? I would probably buy something like this but in the US I would need Anton Bauer version and V-lok since both types are in use.
  12. This would go great with that 8-track tape recorder Sound Devices put out a few years back...
  13. Awesome. I really prefer the original Switchcraft TA3 to the Rean style one. And this has a chuck type strain relief so even better. I'm sure they're going to be spendy. $14 each on Mouser. Looking at the CAD drawing I can't tell if you're able to rotate the plug to a desired cable angle or if you're just stuck with one orientation. Also, not sure this will work for having 6 of them in a row like in a 688 setup.
  14. I just like using the Mic cable because the conductor is the correct size for the Hirose cup, the overall diameter is correct for the connector barrel collet, and also mic cable has better flex than most DC cables which seem to use a harder plastic outer jacket. Someone once mentioned that if the cable got badly crushed the braid shield of mic cable could short the conductors and cause trouble but I'm having a hard time imagining that scenario in most of our rigs where the cables are protected by a bag or cart. Just make sure you don't have any loose braid shield filaments near your solder connections inside the Hirose. I think I might have used a little shrink tube around the cut for that reason. PS, I'm just one guy who came up with using mic cable for this purpose so please don't take it this is the standard way of doing it. Your results may vary!