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About chrismedr

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  1. Yeah, the pink noise hirose connector certainly looks expensive, but hirose usually target for the professional market where the price is not that critical. I hope somebody will make a simple, very thin sled with unregulated DC in, which should be doable for 50EUR. also a version with a single NP-F battery and an integrated 5minute buffer battery (that would be my prefered option actually). chris
  2. I'm far from an expert on this, but as I understand you can either get phase issues by the sound recorded at different times (usually different distances to the sound source or delay in the signal path) or to a lesser degree by room reflections (echo). the former can be adjusted in post by shifting the ISOs in timing until they are aligned, the later is hard (impossible?) in post. also, if you have multiple sound sources on different mics at the same time in the same room (like in music recordings) things get more tricky. chris
  3. I wouldn't recommend modding a recorder in the middle of a shoot, much less so if you don't know the machine and never done something like this before. I would recommend you contact zaxcom or your favourite zaxcom dealer with the info you got from here and ask them if they can do those mods/repairs for you.
  4. The fader is digital gain, i.e. post ADC. I think most people record the ISOs prefader (i.e. only with the analog trims) and use the faders for the mix tracks
  5. not sure if SD is still following this, but just had a nice idea: how about an "ISO mode" (next to basic and advanced mode) where the front knobs become trim gains of the ISO tracks and the LR mix recording is disabled? that's how I would use it most of the time (and I suspect a lot of other people too), and would be easier to understand and set up then a custom mode with strange basic/advanced combinations chris
  6. thanks for the hands on info. yeah, bit strange decisions on the powering options, specially since the sleds are not cheap for a bit of plastic (80EUR for the 4AA and 125EUR for the 8AA and NP-F). Personally I would love to see a sled with single NP-F inline and small integrated buffer battery that can run the unit for 5minutes for swapping batteries. chris
  7. To me Pauls quote seems pretty clear that multiple mono tracks are not supported - but you can always use wave agent or other tools to convert the poly into multiple mono.
  8. the sony manual says that discharge over 2A can result in degrading the battery over time, and that at a peak current of 10A it will trip the internal fuse to prevent damage:
  9. this is a common beginners desire - short story is it doesn't exist. your best bet is probably just to capture audio only bits and pieces in between (possibly very close), then sculpt your sound scape ignoring reality. that sometimes can result in a poetic feeling if done with care, imagination and love.
  10. I would expect somebody (or several companies) will come with a flat dummy sled with hirose (and 14V to 8V converter) input pretty soon, so I'd wait for that (or build (or if in a hurry, you could build one yourself or ask one of the wizards to build one). coming to think of it, a flat dummy sled with built in buffer battery and hirose connector would be pretty sweet.
  11. as mentioned above the only one that makes sense imo is if it goes left over the fan: but if it's not for gimbals or drones the camera dep will leave a gap to the batteries so that they can change cards easily, in which case just use a straight cable (or jam once and keep in free run)
  12. the strange bit is that she is on a wireless mic too, and I thought that with fully digital transmission you don't get degraded audio but dropouts if range becomes an issue?
  13. SD posted a clarification video of the custom mode: looks like you were right and it's post fader (even though the exact gain staging is not addressed and it looks like you have limited control over the mix track this way):
  14. if your power distribution box has an output that supplies regulated 5V with at least 1.5A you should be fine. Remote Audio, Hawk Wooks, Kortwich etc make some that have an USB connector. Alternatively you can build an adapter that converts unregulated 14V to regulated 5V.
  15. perfect, that was exactly what I was thinking about in my previous post (even if somewhat poorly phrased). I agree a block diagram would be useful too. thanks for testing and glad it will fit my workflow as well (I still think the interface suggestions I made above are worth considering though : ) chris