Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'power'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Main Board
    • Current
    • The Daily Journal
    • General Discussion
    • Equipment
    • Cameras... love them, hate them
    • Recording Direct to Computer
    • Workflow
    • The Post Place
    • Images of Interest
    • Macs... and the other computer
    • All Things Apple
    • Technical Reference
    • Do It Yourself
    • Manufacturers & Dealers
    • Work Available - Available for Work
    • Post to the Host
  • JWSOUND RESOURCE
    • Donate to Support JWSOUNDGROUP

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


About

  1. Now that my Nomad is having it's power switch repaired, it's time to invest in some kind of remote switch.... juuuuust in case.... Anyone have any recommendations? Currently powering Nomad is a Hawk-Woods shoe with a single hard-wired hirose4 (worryingly vulnerable), while my G2s/G3s are on AAs. Thing is, if I am looking at paying nearly the same for a switch as I would a switched distro, I would go with the distro for future proofing, seeing as I will eventually buy/borrow Zax or Lectro radios. Any thoughts?
  2. I am building my cart and after seeing many people using the yamaha 0196vi as their front end I have decided to use the Midas Venice F as Midas offers far superior audio products to Yamaha and far superior features. Primarily because I like Midas Preamps and because I like the idea of firewire and analog direct outs instead of USB as in the o196vi. My question relates to powering these AC behemoths. I will of course be running on 12 volt DC cart power from my Meon. Is there an efficient way to convert DC to AC for the mixer? I would think that the midas console actually uses DC power internally and converts the AC input to DCinternally. Is there a way to bypass its AC-DC converter and go straight in as DC? Seems silly to convert power twice, that being said does this have any drawbacks (as in are power inverters efficient?). How have other mixers solved this problem when using gear that is designed to be plugged to AC. I have already asked the guys at Midas about it but hoping for some insight from you guys too. Chris
  3. Okay, so I just wanted to through this out there to see that you all though. I have been looking for a good and less expensive than the NP-1 route to power the gear in my bag and have though of something interesting. But before I go trying something dumb and breaking my new toys, I thought Id post all about it here and see what you guys came back with. So here we go: One of my deepest passions in life has always been photography and pretty much all areas of it at that. The area in particular that got me thinking was that of on location portraiture. Specifically the power sources photographers need and use to power profressional studio strobes. In my on location portraiture gear kit, I own a couple portable battery powered inverters that I use to drive my stobes. Now the part that go me thinking was the Li-Ion batteries that these come with (and can be purchased separately) and their voltage output and capacity. Doing some reasearch I found that a standard and popular NP-1 style battery (in this case the IDX NP-L7S LINK) is a 14.6v, 4.6Ah (4600mAh) battery that yeilds 68Wh. I found the following equation to help me with some simple calculations: Wh = (mAh / 1000) * V Inserting the specs from the IDX NP-L7S battery we get: (4600/1000) * 14.6 = 4.6 * 14.6 = 67.16 which is approximately the quoted 68Wh Okay, so I just ran that calc to check the equation and verify some values. Now, the battery I found is a bit different shapped, but it offers the specs of 14.8v, 8.8Ah (8800mAh) yeilding what I calculate to be approx 130Wh. Heres the math: (8800/1000) * 14.8 = 8.8 * 14.8 = 130.24 which is approximately 130Wh Fine, so why go through all this trouble? Well, this battery I own is $89 and the charger, is $29. Thats a whole lot more appealing that the minimum of $200+ for an NP-1 battery and charger setup. And it fits nicely in the back pocket of a Petrol PS607 bag. The Battery: LINK The Charger: LINK So what Im thinking now is this: the connection on this battery is a standard crimp on connection type thats pretty cheap. Ill post a link when I find one, I just cant remember what that dang things are called at the moment, plus Ive had a couple beers at this point which isnt helping. But making a simple cable from these two connectors to say the Sound Devices Bare Hirose 4-pin HR10-7P-4P Power Connector (Pins 1(-) and 4(+) from the SD manual) LINK should be no problem at all. Or even cheaper here: LINK. And just like that you have a power source that is roughly twice the run time of an NP-1. Now the part Im having a bit of trouble with and that I hoping someone out there can help me out on is how do I wire this up to split the source so that I can power both a 702 and 302 from the same battery. Wiring two Hirose connections in parallel from the red and black connector (whatever its called) should do it right? At least thats what Im thinking. Ive attached a few pics of the various parts, including the battery shown fitted nicely in the back pouch of a Petrol PS607 bag. Now believe me, I know Im not the first to suggest some DIY battery combo, nor will I be the last. But the fact that this setup could potentially be cheaper and longer running than some other options makes it something at least to consider. Especially for me since I already own it! So, what do you guys think? Is it worth pursuing or am I just heading to blow up my 702?
×
×
  • Create New...