matadams Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 I couldnt find what i needed for sale so decided to make my own. I wanted to be easily able to turn things in my bag on and off, especially off when i wasnt using them and have an led indicators for reference. The first three switches operate pairs of Hirose sockets, the last two switches operate single hirose sockets. Each switches output runs through a self resetting fuse first, if i have a short and a fuse blows, i should se straight away as the LED will go out. It works really well and im very happy with it. It is a bit big but i needed the width and depth to fit in the switches and sockets. Actuually, when you solder in there you wouldnt want it much smaller plus theres space left should i decide to develop it further, such as adding a voltage regulator for some outputs. I can post part numbers if anyone wishes to make one and save some time. Mat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwill Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Hey Matt, clever idea and worthwhile if you are powering lots of wireless etc! It looks as tho you do some nice work, you should get together with a couple of JW Soundies and start a company making specialty equipment!! Eric are you seeing this? Nest of luck, if I were you I would build several in your spare time and sell them! Best of luck JHW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 That is really nice looking! I have been toying with the idea of adding switches to my BDS (I just replaced all of the power switches on my 411's...) Where did you find those switches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Daddyo Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Jason did you replace the switches yourself? Are the replacement switches any different than the original 411 switch? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pvanstry Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Nice work Mat. Part number and a little diagram would be really cool. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 The switches that I got were exactly the same, as far as I could tell Yes, I did all the work myself. Jason did you replace the switches yourself? Are the replacement switches any different than the original 411 switch? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gilbert Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Looks very good, and not too big at all, I have used Hawk Woods systems for years which are really good, but the switches are buried in the back of the back, it would be great to control stuff more easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnpaul215 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 This is nice! I like the width since it allows for a cleaner running of cables (as well as individual component power control). I'm not a nut about a clean looking bag, but I like how they are out of the way if you are jamming other things in the bag (mics, transmitters etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnpaul215 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Looks very good, and not too big at all, I have used Hawk Woods systems for years which are really good, but the switches are buried in the back of the back, it would be great to control stuff more easily. I've used both of the Hawkwoods NP-1 cups and they always seemed *almost*there*. I liked the power controls, but the cable routing was a mess. Using it with just a mixer, and Li-Ion battery, we didn't have to ration power like some of us try to do when carrying 6 411 RXs. We always pulled the battery as our master on/off switch. A little clunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael McQueen Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 thats a nice looking setup! i've been thinking about doing something similar but my soldering skills stop at regular xlr's. you should definitely do a run of these and sell them. i use the battery bud II as my bds at the moment but something with a few more outputs and a more slimmer size would be very attractive. let me know if you're looking to build/sell these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadams Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Thanks for all the positive comments, its nice to share these things as ive been a long time lurker on both here and RAMPS back in the day and have taken inspiration and ideas from others posts in the past. I might upload some pics of my other successful projects, the unsuccessful ones never happened ~cough~! I've used both of the Hawkwoods NP-1 cups and they always seemed *almost*there*. I liked the power controls, but the cable routing was a mess. Using it with just a mixer, and Li-Ion battery, we didn't have to ration power like some of us try to do when carrying 6 411 RXs. We always pulled the battery as our master on/off switch. A little clunky. Yup, ive got a couple of the Hawk-woods cups too which work fine for a lot of stuff. I founf the switched mode regs that hawk-woods use causing me RF spray in the VHF band, however these days i only use my VHF radio mics as camera links so this is no longer an issue. I think with only four hirose outputs they were just a bit limited for todays more usual bigger bag setups and, as you say John Paul, when you come to change NP1 you have to pull a load of cable out the bag when you pull on the shoe. With this BDS i can run a single v-lovk battery in the front of my bag (back ache!), or a single np1 or pair of np1's in parallel in the back pocket between me and my mixer/recorder where the weight is best placed. I also have the flexibility of pulling the battery plug and connecting up an AC adapter should the need ever arise. Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadams Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 As requested here's the part numbers from Farnell in the UK 1077705 HR10-7R-4S(73) SOCKET, PANEL, 4POLE 1082444 IPR1SAD2LOS SWITCH, ON-OFF, BLACK/RED LED 1861148 MC36248 RESETTABLE FUSE, 1.2A 4437159 1590BBK BOX, DIECAST, BLACK, 111X59X31MM You'll also need a resistor in series with each LED to lower the voltage drop across them. Rough wiring diagram below showing two channels, repeat for more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 I take a different approach to bag power. Rather than have a power distro box in the bag, I make up a wiring harness (I wanted to say "harnesses" as I've done many of them over the years, but only one per bag). The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use. A harness is actually easy to build and adds less weight and bulk to the bag. Just thought I'd add an alternative to the discussion. Really nice work, BTW, Mat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 I think I might be able to lay claim to be the first to copy Mat's BDS idea having had a bash a couple of months ago. Thought I best get in before the patent lands. I did a few things differently managing to squeeze a few more sockets (I reckon the maximum possible) onto the bottom of the box. I've got three ganged off the first switch for Mixer/Recorder, Hop Txs, RF distro, then three pairs for Rxs, and one single for IFB Tx. I also added a socket for power input to the box rather than having a flying lead and used green LEDs rather than red, just cos. I did manage to pop the LEDs in two of them though before realising about needing to drop the voltage with a resistor confirming my prediction that I would mess something up compared to Mat's annoyingly tidy work! Working well and looks neat and I know I have plenty of distribution for the fullest of bags when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfatjames Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 As requested here's the part numbers from Farnell in the UK 1077705 HR10-7R-4S(73) SOCKET, PANEL, 4POLE 1082444 IPR1SAD2LOS SWITCH, ON-OFF, BLACK/RED LED 1861148 MC36248 RESETTABLE FUSE, 1.2A 4437159 1590BBK BOX, DIECAST, BLACK, 111X59X31MM You'll also need a resistor in series with each LED to lower the voltage drop across them. Rough wiring diagram below showing two channels, repeat for more. what is the value of the resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadams Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 cant remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Daddyo Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Thanks Jason! I was wondering if your new lectro 411 switch was any easier to turn on and off but it sounds like it's not if it's the same switch. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olphi Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Hi Mat, really nice piece!!!Typical from the Audio users, because of the stupid switch on the back :-). I also do something similar with a Hawk woods NPU-SQN4 (http://www.hawkwoods...=np-70&asi2=mr4) that I modified. I split it in two parts. One part with the switches with direct access from the mixer. The other part is the cup for the battery. The battery cup sits now in the rear pocket of my Petrol bag.In your DIY, I love the possibility to switch on/off the RXs independently. For my DIY, I switch on/off 2 Rx at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephane Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I take a different approach to bag power. Rather than have a power distro box in the bag, I make up a wiring harness (I wanted to say "harnesses" as I've done many of them over the years, but only one per bag). The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use. A harness is actually easy to build and adds less weight and bulk to the bag. Just thought I'd add an alternative to the discussion. Really nice work, BTW, Mat. Might try the harness idea. Seems simple, but never thought about it until now. John, with yours, do you include a resetting fuse on each output? Anything else you think I should consider? As always, love seeing custom work. Thanks Mat for sharing. Stephane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Great work! I'm currently designing a similar BDS box for my cart. I like the idea of using individual self resetting fuses instead of a single circuit breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnpaul215 Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use. Some people seem to wear out their Lectro switches, which this avoids. I am guessing that's part of the motivation for all the switches. This is also a lot easier to replace a switch (or re-patch) than a 411. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 and WAY less terrifying. I had to take a set of cutters to physically snip away the old switch to remove it. A hot soldering iron that close to all those components takes a steady hand. Some people seem to wear out their Lectro switches, which this avoids. I am guessing that's part of the motivation for all the switches. This is also a lot easier to replace a switch (or re-patch) than a 411. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvaudioman Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 That is really nice looking! I have been toying with the idea of adding switches to my BDS (I just replaced all of the power switches on my 411's...) Where did you order the 411 (UCR201) switches from? Cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Trew Audio Toronto supplied them, I don't recall the cost...insignificant, no doubt. Where did you order the 411 (UCR201) switches from? Cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcopenhagen Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Nice work! I think I might be able to lay claim to be the first to copy Mat's BDS idea No... not the first. Here's my box from a couple years ago. Doesn't have those fancy push-button combo switches/LEDs, but it does regulate down to 9V for the outputs. I decided on just a single PTC fuse at the front end. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.