atheisticmystic Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Rado's recent RM-11 thread inspired me to share my own COS-11 mounting technique. It's become my go-to mount for most wardrobe choices, works well mounted on both clothing and skin, and (knock on wood) it's been consistently trouble-free for me. A-What I start with: 1-The wider top-stick toupee tape, cut into quarters. 2-Standard thickness moleskin, cut into base, and top layers, with top layer being a little wider than base. 3-Thick padded moleskin, cut into small "bumpers". B-The "pre-cuts" that I keep prepped in my "lav-be-good" bag. The top-stick stuck to the base layer, with the peel layer kept on until mic selection and color are decided. C- Mic goes down on the top-stick base layer so the mic head is just above the tape line. D- Bumper piece sticks across mic at the top-stick tape line so both adhesives keep it stable. E-Top layer of moleskin protects the first inch or so of mic cable (I've cut the base and top layer longer for certain situations, but mostly just add a piece of transpore to stabilize another inch or so of mic cable below the mount) F-Overall profile is thinner than the hush lav, it's been more quiet for me, and infinitely cheaper. YMMV Best, Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Hirtenstein Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 looks like a cozy sleeping bag, i'll try it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Nice. Will try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander Burstein Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 So standard moleskin up until the mic is in place, then the thicker moleskin (small strip first) and a larger piece of thicker to cover the rest up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Wielage Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I can testify to the effectiveness of Steven's approach. It works very well, particularly with small-diameter lavs like the Countrymans or COS-11's. Generally very quiet, almost like a "cone of silence" around the mic. (Or more like a "sleeping bag" around the mic.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Nice. CrewC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gilbert Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Got to be worth a shot, I was struggling yesterday with Cos-11s, and none of my usual tricks seemed to work, always good to have new things to try. I shall make a couple of these rigs up for next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTA Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 @atheisticmystic - Do you find that this works well applied to t-shirts or dies the weight of the mount sometimes pull down to much on the shirt making it somewhat noticeable? Or do you have a preferred mounting technique with this custom rig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atheisticmystic Posted November 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 So standard moleskin up until the mic is in place, then the thicker moleskin (small strip first) and a larger piece of thicker to cover the rest up? No Alexander, both the top and base layer are standard thickness moleskin, only the bumper is the extra padded moleskin. @atheisticmystic - Do you find that this works well applied to t-shirts or dies the weight of the mount sometimes pull down to much on the shirt making it somewhat noticeable? Or do you have a preferred mounting technique with this custom rig? My experience is that it is much lighter than the RM-11, so it pulls down less on a thin garment. I use this mount without change on most T-shirts that have some sort of graphic design that hides a bit of garment strain. On a plain colored T-shirt I round the edges a bit with scissors, and make it a bit smaller. With thin white T-shirts, I trim the sides thinner so that the base layer isn't any wider than the quartered top-stick, I make it a bit shorter, round the edges, and hide it under the collar, cabling along the collar seam (much easier with the Countryman than the Sanken). Best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonyeah Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Nice! How do you apply on a clothes and skin? With transpore at the base? Thxs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chauncey Taylor Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 AM- Nice breakdown, sure some who have never seen these technics will really appreciate it. OK- so I have used similar "sandwiches" and had some problems with hard starchy shirts and chest hair. It seems like a mic like the cos-11 is so good at PU it hears the chest like a drum head or something, the inside of the garment turns into the inside of like a guitar resonating. What are we to do on these newer style productions that expect these type of feature narrative techniques that we use on talent while they are In HMU with a Utility op on a TV style shoot with one op, harnessed up, with seconds of time on a Live TV type production schedule??? Has anyone else had this workflow situation? When I watch TV, the subjects are all miked with a clip, Lav showing. When I go to work, "oh yea we want the lavs, hidden, yea can you have that up in 25 seconds?" My hot tip, bend the corners of the Topstick or Moleskin paper with a dog ear (before approaching subject/ talent) like a page holder in a novel, so when you holding the Lav & wire at talents chin your not trying to get the dang paper started to peel for 5 minutes. This has been a small improvement to this workflow that has saved me lots of stress, that and a Lav bullet type weight! Lav em and leave em! (Hopefully if you have done it properly!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atheisticmystic Posted November 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 My hot tip, bend the corners of the Topstick or Moleskin paper with a dog ear (before approaching subject/ talent) like a page holder in a novel, so when you holding the Lav & wire at talents chin your not trying to get the dang paper started to peel for 5 minutes. This has been a small improvement to this workflow that has saved me lots of stress, that and a Lav bullet type weight! Chauncey, although I make "quick-pull" tabs on practically everything I tape up, I had NOT thought to do that with the lav mounts. Thanks for that tip! I was initially skeptical about the lav bullet, but after using Wielage's bullet on three actors in period western "Belle of the Ball" dresses, hearing that satisfying "thunk" as the bullet hit the floor so quickly after being dropped from the neckline of the dress...I'm a believer. Best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 That's about how I do it with the OST TL-40's I recently purchased. Generally mount it on clothing, but will go on the skin if the clothing is sheer enough that the mounting would show. I've found this concept works great if talent is wearing multiple layers, such as a hoodie over a t-shirt. In cases like that, I'll stick the mount to the outer layer. Lav bullet is on my short list of small things to buy, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundslikejustin Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 How does the top layer stick to the bumper? More Topstick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atheisticmystic Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 How does the top layer stick to the bumper? More Topstick? Justin, Top layer is mole skin also, so has it's own peel off sticky side. Seems to work against the fuzzy side of the bumper without incident. Best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundslikejustin Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Justin, Top layer is mole skin also, so has it's own peel off sticky side. Seems to work against the fuzzy side of the bumper without incident. Best Of course. Moleskin is not really that common here in Aus, I'll have to get some for a play with. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atheisticmystic Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Moleskin is not really that common here in Aus... I have indeed heard you are a hearty and hale folk brother Justin ...padded adhesives to protect tender feet??? Pshaw!!! Best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 http://www.scholl.com/en-AU/Sore-Spot-Moleskin-/10002181/ProductDetail.raction Of course. Moleskin is not really that common here in Aus, I'll have to get some for a play with. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate C Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Just wondering how much a single sheet of moleskin - like Jason linked - usually costs in the states. Here in Australia it retails for around the $9 - $11 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvaudioman Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 I like. Thanks for the pictures. I use B6's and Trams. Would something like this work on a tram, and build the bumper pad below the element? Leaving the element exposed of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Wow, that is ridiculous. I buy it in rolls, 51cm x 18cm for about $12 CDN. I would be happy to send you some but you'll probably end up paying the same after tax and duty. Let me know. Just wondering how much a single sheet of moleskin - like Jason linked - usually costs in the states. Here in Australia it retails for around the $9 - $11 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atheisticmystic Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Just wondering how much a single sheet of moleskin - like Jason linked - usually costs in the states. Here in Australia it retails for around the $9 - $11 mark. At the local drugstore: http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/dr.-scholl's-molefoam-padding/ID=prod2569-product At the Usual Suspects: http://www.locationsound.com/moleskin-sheet-linear-foot-p-48.html Would something like this work on a tram, and build the bumper pad below the element? Leaving the element exposed of course. Haven't tried it brother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campion Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 what about corn pads for a tram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studiomprd Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 " what about corn pads for a tram? " I've used them with emw's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berniebeaudry Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 I've been trying out Steven's technique this week with my newly acquired COS 11s and I'm finding that it works really well. I am keeping the mics mounted in the rig, and at the end of the day I fold over a piece of transpore sticky side in and put it over the adhesive area of the rig. The next day I take that off and put Top Stick on the adhesive area to renew it. Only two days into a full week but so far so good. Thanks for the inspiration! Bernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.png.279748a58a2b862b7aa5f3b84126e232.png)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.