enginufuk Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi guys, I make my own cables and this is my first ENG cable. Freshly soldered and wanted to share! I basically LOVE remote audio cables but I couldn't find one with the specs I want and also wanted to challenge myself a little bit... (not for profit or resale,etc...) Also I want to thank to all the people who have posted information in the group, Eric Toline for his length suggestions and challenge warning (definitely took it into account!) and of course to Remote Audio. They make some great products! Here we go: Cable: 2 short break away units (1.5' each ends) and 2 long center units for different applications (22' and 10' (not photographed yet)) Connectors: 2 XLR outs, 2 ta3f ins, 1/4 TC in, BNC TC out, and Headphone in/out both ways. </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwill Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Nice work, break away at mixer end and camera end, I like your work...I too am a fan of Remote Audios snakes, they give (IMHO) the correct length at camera end! JHW ....ps gotta ask about your signature?? Care to elucidate??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Bravo!! Super top shelf work. You have every right to be proud of that cable. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
André Boisvert Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Another cable artist upping the ante here on JWsoundgroup. Very nice work. Any issues with TC bleed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Beauty, eh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Norflus Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I didn't know neutrik made colored collars for the 8 pin neutricon. Are they for the made for the 8 pin or are they made for something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc133 Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Those look like the colored XLR (or maybe 1/4") collars, which is a genius idea. I couldn't get my cable to fit through the Neutricon collars, since it was too big. It would make sense that the threads are the same across their different products. Great work! I wish mine looked that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundslikejustin Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I made a similar one (no TC out though) but on 7-pin XLR. Also, instead of using multicore, I used multiple strands of Mogami 2929, and TechFlex'd it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomboom Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I didn't know neutrik made colored collars for the 8 pin neutricon. Are they for the made for the 8 pin or are they made for something else? I think you'd find em at Markertek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Nault Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 That - is a good looking cable. Well done! R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeheel Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Nice Cable! +1 wanting a report on whether you get any timecode bleeding into the audio. I've contemplated making a snake with a tc channel but have been very afraid of it... Cheers, Brent Calkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Orusa Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Nice. I like that you used the same ends on the cable so it doesn't matter which end you grab. Did you stay close to the Remote Audio pinout? I know that is probably not possible with the BNC line. Did you put the Neutricon pins in the connector first and then solder the wires, or solder them to the wires and then put them in the connector? I always found it easier to start with the pins mounted in the connector. If you drill out the bushing you can actually slide the 2931 jacket-and-all through the Neutricon. Love the colored bushings. Mark O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastermixaudiomedia Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Great work. I went down this road myself, used the 3-pair Remote Audio CA3PS26 cable. Made 2 2X-TA5F ends for Nomad, 2 2X XLR-3M/XLR-5F for DVCPRO cameras, a 2X TA3M/TA5M for RED ONE, and 2 15" and 2 25" extensions. Additionally I made a 2X XLR-3F/XLR-3M whioch allows me to use the cables in-studio for two mic channels and a Clear-Com IFB return. Eventually I'd like to build a small snake box with 2 XLR-3F for mics and 2X XLR-3M for IFB with a chassis-mount Neutricon to connect to the other cables. Below is one of my DVCPRO ends, the geek got the best of me and I eventually changed the silver XLR-3M's for black with the appropriately colored boots. And the colored Neutricon boots are part number BSP-0, I grabbed the image below from Mouser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Did you put the Neutricon pins in the connector first and then solder the wires, or solder them to the wires and then put them in the connector? I always found it easier to start with the pins mounted in the connector. If you drill out the bushing you can actually slide the 2931 jacket-and-all through the Neutricon. Love the colored bushings. Mark O. Regarding soldering the wires before or after the pins are mounted, unlike Mark I always solder the pins to the wires and then mount them in the pin block. Experience has proven to me it's the best way to avoid any potential shorts and it's alot easier to solder when not in the pin block. Now if Neutrik would only number the mounting holes life would be sweet. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Norflus Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I agree with Eric about soldering first then inserting the pins. I once screwed up and flipped two pins and it was a real bitch to in solder and resolder while inserted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomboom Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Same here: solder first, insert after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 The last time I bought neutricon connectors the pins were already pushed into the housing and it didn't seem possible to get them out without destroying the pins. Is there a trick? Soldering that way really is hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginufuk Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi guys, thanks for the kind words! really! I'll try to share more info regarding what I have used and how I soldered. Basically for Neutricons; A) Used colored BSP colored root (made for 1/4"). They wouldn't work with a thick cable so I needed two steps. 1- take the inside plastic section out (some ring inside holds the piece together) 2- Gently cut the end hole to a bigger hole with a X-acto blade/knife so Mogami 2931 can slide through. B ) I used all 8 connections. My center connection was ground. I haven't used numbering. Basically relied on the shapes labeled on the Neutrik FI-8 and MI-8's. I soldered only the center (ground) wire to the pin before I mount it to the FI-8 or MI-8. I figured 2 things. 1- If I solder the rest unmounted, it was harder for me to mount later. Cables overlapped. 2- If I did presolder, lengths vary and I didn't like that. I wanted them to go straigt down, no bulkiness, so I had room to cut and adjust the length of each cable. Maybe a hair thick cuts sometimes. (It's a little crazy sounding maybe but I wanted it to look like an art work.) For cam/mixer ends: A) Cut the Mogami 2931 jacket out. insert TechFlex. Insert Canare CB05 to cover your cut point. B ) insert heat shrink cable sleeves (will go under connectors). For female headphone ends get the male 1/8" extension cable going same way using Techflex. Insert Canare CB4 as your female Headphone connector sleeve. Insert Canare CB3 as your BNC (B-RAQ) sleeve. Shrink the heat shrink sleeves with heatgun/hair drier. Standard work for XL ends. For 1/4" connector I used two Canare CB05. I cut head of one of them and inserted opposite way to give a better look. I'm very humbled with kind words and thank you for suggestions and overall help that I get from this community almost everyday! Engin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwstudios Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 The last time I bought neutricon connectors the pins were already pushed into the housing and it didn't seem possible to get them out without destroying the pins. Is there a trick? Soldering that way really is hard. Not familiar with that particular connector but there are specialized pin extraction tools for a lot of mil spec/aviation plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastermixaudiomedia Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 The last time I bought neutricon connectors the pins were already pushed into the housing and it didn't seem possible to get them out without destroying the pins. Is there a trick? Soldering that way really is hard. Once they're all the way in, they're in for good... count me as one who soldered all my pins before inserting them... well most of them. I found that it was easier to solder the common grounds with the pin partially inserted after inserting all of the other pins. After doing 10+ Neutricons you figure a few ways to make things go easier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomboom Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 The last time I bought neutricon connectors the pins were already pushed into the housing and it didn't seem possible to get them out without destroying the pins. Is there a trick? Soldering that way really is hard. Holy, Derek: I'd say don't buy from that place anymore, it looks like somebody already opened the package and messed it up, so they re-packaged the connector and re-sold it (pins are clearly out of the shells when bought new)... it's so much easier (imo) to solder the pins out of the shell first. Once inserted, it's quite hard to get them out without breaking something (unless there's a ''miracle tool'' like the one described by nwstudios above). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundInTexas Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 very nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Norflus Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 No way to get them out as far as I know. And believe me I did try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toy Robot Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 +1 Very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackHenry Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Are these pinned connectors XLR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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