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Nice Petrol pouch mod, Matt.

Was the IDX a lithium? If so, what precautions did you use when taking it apart? Thanks.

 

Thanks André, yeah the IDX was a Lithium and I was just generally careful when taking it apart. Didn't use a Dremel or power tools to cut the case, just a Stanley knife quite close to the bracket side. The actual cells and circuit board were on the other side, closest to the back of the battery so I didn't have to go anywhere near them fortunately.

 

The tricky part was mounting the MDF plate to the battery bracket. Luckily there were 4 existing lugs that I could tap a thread into. After that it was just a case of trying to finish off and make it look tidy (which is still a work in progress!)

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" the sound ends up being the lowest end of OK on the DSLR then some of these cheap producers might end up using the onboard camera sound in the final mix instead of my better quality sound on my recorder. "

it is their movie

 

" There's gotta be a way... "

Norbert

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I love this topic because I find it mildly entertaining when discussing mounting options with camera opps. Now, I'm speaking more to the reality/ENG types. I use the SR w/bat sled, The SRSLEEVE, and this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860422-REG/Vello_cb_460_Triple_Shoe_V_Bracket.html. It's funny because right off the bat they complain. Once I explain that I CAN mount a couple 411's to their waist with 6' XLR's and I'd need to unmount for battery changes and frequency adjustments, their tone shifts dramatically. Since, I've started using it I haven't had I complaint.

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I love this topic because I find it mildly entertaining when discussing mounting options with camera opps. Now, I'm speaking more to the reality/ENG types. I use the SR w/bat sled, The SRSLEEVE, and this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860422-REG/Vello_cb_460_Triple_Shoe_V_Bracket.html. It's funny because right off the bat they complain.

 

I also use the SR, but I have a much slimmer, lower-profile lithium-ion battery pack for it that lasts for 12 hours (which cost $29 on eBay). I also have a custom cable that gives the AC some flexibility in terms of where they can mount the SR, plus bendable antennas and lots of velcro. Rarely do I run into a problem (except with the dreaded Canon C300, my most hated camera), and a couple of times I've gotten compliments from the camera department as to how fast, easy, and flexible the TC and audio setup was. Zero problems on Alexa or Red. 

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I am almost always feeding Alexas.

I bought a couple of Sony UWP diversity wireless and made a mini to 5 pin XLR cable for them.

The AC sticks velcro on them and mounts them where they want.

Batts last 6-7 hours

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whats the wiring for the minijack to the 5pin male xlr going into the Alexa?

 

Im going to make up a cable for just 1 channel from a senni g3 reciever to go into the camera as a guide.  Perhaps I can cable it in a way that the channel goes onto both tracks on the Alexa.  Im just wondering what the alexa is expecting on each of the 5 pins?

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whats the wiring for the minijack to the 5pin male xlr going into the Alexa?

 

Im going to make up a cable for just 1 channel from a senni g3 reciever to go into the camera as a guide.  Perhaps I can cable it in a way that the channel goes onto both tracks on the Alexa.  Im just wondering what the alexa is expecting on each of the 5 pins?

You can do that in the cable, or you can set in the Alexa menu that input 1 is recorded to both tracks.

 

Then it's just standard unbalanced wiring - tip (audio) goes to pin 2, ring is NC, sleeve (ground) goes to 1 and 3 .

 

EDIT: If you wanted to do it in the cable, you would also connect tip to 4, and ground to 5 - but I don't see why you would need to do that.

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For the cheese plate rig cameras, I took a strip of brass from the hardware store, mounted a thin strip of wood to match a G2 clip size and covered with gaff.  The bottom nut is usually removed before

mounting.  A quick and easy mount for a G2/3 RX

post-454-0-44871200-1370476757_thumb.jpg

post-454-0-72989100-1370476769_thumb.jpg

post-454-0-62111500-1370476787_thumb.jpg

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I also use the SR, but I have a much slimmer, lower-profile lithium-ion battery pack for it that lasts for 12 hours (which cost $29 on eBay). I also have a custom cable that gives the AC some flexibility in terms of where they can mount the SR, plus bendable antennas and lots of velcro. Rarely do I run into a problem (except with the dreaded Canon C300, my most hated camera), and a couple of times I've gotten compliments from the camera department as to how fast, easy, and flexible the TC and audio setup was. Zero problems on Alexa or Red.

I grabbed one of those batteries, love it.

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About the only problem with the $29 slim battery packs on eBay is that they take a long time to charge. My memory is that they take about 8-9 hours or so. Once charged, they'll go a solid 12 hours with zero problems, assuming it's a Lectro SR. I bought four of them and try to cycle them every so often, plus I always carry a spare "just in case." 

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About the only problem with the $29 slim battery packs on eBay is that they take a long time to charge. My memory is that they take about 8-9 hours or so. Once charged, they'll go a solid 12 hours with zero problems, assuming it's a Lectro SR. I bought four of them and try to cycle them every so often, plus I always carry a spare "just in case."

you perhaps can use a more powerful charge adapter.

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I'm reluctant to use anything except the chargers provided by the vendors. I'll gamble to a point, but I'm not in a giant hurry to explode any lithium battery packs...

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I use the BEC group wireless receiver plate, I unscrewed Anton Bauer gold mount on my two P2 cameras, and installed the plate. Then, I screwed the side plate into the L-shaped backplate, and I put the BEC group wireless boxes screwed onto the side plate. I have two boxes for my UCR411a recievers and one for my UCR 201, plus a box for my G2 and one for my G3. Also considering a Sennheiser slot receiver Sennehiser EK3201? for my cameras possibly.

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Hi folks.

 

Here is a couple of pics from a low-budget short that I worked on a few weeks ago. I was itching to try out the new ERX on the Scarlet, and it seemed to perform flawlessly sending both timecode and audio via a DIY cable to camera  :)

 

I was trying to think of ways to attach it to the camera, and ended up buying a Manfrotto Nano Clamp, cheap little articulated arm, and a tripod adapter for an iPhone. With an additional rubber band for some extra security it wasn't going anywhere. This also allowed easy access to the battery compartment. (Not that this was required however; my 2700mAh rechargeables were still metering at 4/5 after a 10hr day!) 

 

I am completely in love with this clamp / arm combination. It can clamp to just about anything and I even use it in my car to hold my phone in an easy-to-see-google-maps-way. The arm came with a cold shoe adapter and various extra adapter bits. I can even use an extra 1/4 to 1/3 inch male thread adapter to attach a mic clip for quick and easy mic mounting options.

 

Already planning a better set of cables / adapters to run the audio and timecode out of the ERX. Unthreaded mini-jack is so tenuous...

 

Regards.

 

 

 

 

post-8419-0-45183900-1374585011_thumb.jp

post-8419-0-16734300-1374585809_thumb.jp

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I am wanting to power a zaxcom Rx900 off an Alexa from the RS three pin fischer 24v out. The 12v lemo out is normally used by a monitor, so I plan on regulating the RS out to 15v.

I have several questions on how to do this, and would greatly appreciate any insight before I get to it.

Thanks,

Rodrigo

santiago, Chile

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Been having contact issues with my IDX MWR V-Lock wireless receiver mounting bracket. The camera loses power if the bracket is touched, even slightly. It doesn't feel loose or wiggly, but it is breaking contact. I've heard the same story from 2 others. Cameras being used are usually Sony XD Cam 700 / 800 etc. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't... Anyone got a fix for this?

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