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Derek H

Hirose 4p... DC power cable choices and using mic cable?

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So this has been talked about before but I've never been able to find the perfect cable.

 

Here is the dilema:

 

The Hirose 4p solder pots are tiny.  A 20AWG stranded conductor doesn't fit.  You really need 24-26 AWG conductors for a good strong connection without having to trim the strands off.  

 

The strain relief of either style of Hirose 4 pin require an outer cable diameter of 4-5mm.  

 

The solution?

 

Canare mini starquad or mini standard paired mic cable (L-2E5) is a perfect match to the above requirement.  It is also flexible which many other cables aren't and the conductor insulation has excellent shrink back properties where cheaper cable has trouble with the insulation melting as you solder.  The only weird sticking point is that it has an overall braid shield.  

 

Is there any reason not to use this type of cable for DC power?  The braid shield would be trimmed off and not connected to anything.  Will that unconnected shield have any adverse effect on anything?  Seems like a no brainer that it would be fine but you never know with these things.  

 

For example, would it conduct or radiate EMI?  Would it help prevent it?  Is there a risk of arcing from the conductors to the shield?  Surely not at 12 volts.  

 

I know companies make and sell Hirose cables generally with 24AWG zip-cord type cable and just use a wad of shrink wrap to beef up the size for the strain relief but it seems failure prone to me.  I don't see what really prevents the cable from twisting or pulling inside the shrink wrap.  I've also bought Hirose cables from Remote Audio that use 20AWG round cable and I have to wonder how they shoved all those strands into the Hirose..  

 

I'm probably over thinking this but just curious if anyone else has been down this road and what conclusion they came to.

 

Thanks!

-Derek

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" never been able to find the perfect cable. "

thats subjective...

" Is there any reason not to use this type of cable for DC power? "

perhaps,  maybe cost...maybe current requirements...

but go ahead

 

" it seems failure prone to me. "

subjective...

have you had any failures..?

" I'm probably over thinking this "

I think so...

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Thanks Mike, I was looking forward to your thoughts on this.   :)

 

The current requirements is an interesting one.  Hirose's data sheet lists the connector itself as rated for 2 amps max.  Even 26 AWG should handle 2 amps for a cable just a a few feet.

 

And no I have not had any failures on the zip-cord Hirose's I own, but I have seen a few busted ones in rental kits which is fueling my doubt of them.  Of course the level of abuse they receive in rental kits is probably many times more than my personal gear.

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Even 26 AWG should handle 2 amps for a cable just a a few feet. "

at a full 2A, there might be some voltage drop.

 

" fueling my doubt of them. "

OK...

I tend to put a larger shrink tube section on the cable that can be pulled down over the rear of the connectorm and when  heated, it forms a boot, for a bit of additional toughness...

 

as I noted: try what you want...

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The Canare L-2ES is fine for the job. Trim back the shield and cover it with a bit of electrical tape to be sure. It is overkill to be sure. If you find very thin zip cable (side x side) and you're concerned about it getting pulled out from the connector then tie a small knot in the cable that goes inside the barrel cover as a strain relief.

 

Eric

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I just made a few power cables for my BDS using audio cable. No problems at all.
I just carefully trimmed the shielding and simply added a small bit of shrink tube to make sure that it was all sealed up against the outer casing of the cable before finishing the standard connections for the connectors.
No worries. Looks fine, works fine... problem eliminated.
 

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I use GS-4 cable for power cables and so far so good. It's an "instrument" cable for keyboards or guitars (one conductor plus the braided shield). Been using that for TC cables too, with BNCs.

And thanks again for pointing out in the past that this tiny black rubber sleeve is conductive Derek..! (I'm careful with that when I make my cables).

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