jason porter Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I finally had a chance to whip up a couple prototypes! One is a low profile female XLR-3 and the other is a low-profile XLR-5 (for a Zaxcom Stereo Receiver) The XLR-3 just needs some type of "cap" to protect it from the elements. The XLR-5, I used Sugru and really cocked-up the finish. I need to find or make a proper cap, maybe from a plastic end cap of some type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Wexler Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I used plastic end caps that fit perfectly into the body of the connector and cap top was larger diameter and went to the edges of the connector body surface. I found the caps at a hardware store but unfortunately I can't remember what they are actually designed for (so I can't tell you where to look!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kujbida Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Caps that are meant for the bottoms of chair or table legs (to protect your floor from scratches) might be a good thing to try. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpbat Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I remember using years ago for that purpose some caps designed to plug in unused holes on a video patchbay. They were fitting perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 With this recurring topic I'm always interested in the strain relief method. What's to stop you from ruining it when the cable gets pulled on? Looks nice, the Sugru is not too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berniebeaudry Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I made some up a while ago and used the plastic end caps Jeff described. Take a connector to a good hardware store and you should be able to located them. How did you solder the wires with a hole in the side? I had to make a slot to get mine to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Reilly Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Is this too esoteric for a third party manufacture that would be cost effective? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I added a small ziptie inside the connector that acts as strain relief. With this recurring topic I'm always interested in the strain relief method. What's to stop you from ruining it when the cable gets pulled on? Looks nice, the Sugru is not too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 First, I cut the solder cups down so they are flush with the rest of the connector, this creates enough space to "work". Then I solder the wires (Belden 1804A) being sure to add insulation to the ground wire so it doesn't short the other connections IF it touches one. Then I insert the connector into the metal housing, then feed the thin Belden through the hole I drilled. If you keep enough wire inside the connector shell, it 'jams' up against the sides, creating its own strain relief. I will probably add a tiny ziptie for added strength. I also make a small 1/8" threaded hole/set screw to hold the plastic connector insert in place. I made some up a while ago and used the plastic end caps Jeff described. Take a connector to a good hardware store and you should be able to located them. How did you solder the wires with a hole in the side? I had to make a slot to get mine to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 The 5pin version does have one of these plastic end caps on it, with some Sugru. I just didn't like the fit, maybe I can find something better sized. I am trying to find a metal or PVC cap that I can add a few set screws to hold in place instead. I used plastic end caps that fit perfectly into the body of the connector and cap top was larger diameter and went to the edges of the connector body surface. I found the caps at a hardware store but unfortunately I can't remember what they are actually designed for (so I can't tell you where to look!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I spent about 10-15 mins (max) to modify the xlr-3, with the addition of a simple end cap, I don't see why one wouldn't manufacture it and sell it for a reasonable cost. I could make these for $20-25 each plus whatever the end cap solution ends up being. Is this too esoteric for a third party manufacture that would be cost effective? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I had posted a picture of VDB's design of a right-angle XLR low profile... -vin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toy Robot Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Good job making your own, I love the DIY spirit. I wish there were more affordable options for low profile XLR connectors already on the market and easily available for us. Vin, the look excellent, I just hope they are not $35 a piece like Kortwich connectors. That's simply an absurd price for an XLR connector in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cujo Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Caps that are meant for the bottoms of chair or table legs (to protect your floor from scratches) might be a good thing to try. Mike Yup... This was the first thought that raced through my mind as well. -- Or a large rubber vacuum line cap (think automotive parts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael P Clark Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 I also used the plastic caps to fill table holes with. The zip tie is brilliant, wish I thought of that with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesB Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I also used the plastic caps to fill table holes with. The zip tie is brilliant, wish I thought of that with mine. Yes... this is what I do with the K-Tek low profile.... along with adding the jacket from a larger cable to it. Helps a lot. Avoid CA glue as I see a lot of places use, as it makes the jacket completely brittle and fractures quickly. Shoe Goo is amazing stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Just finished these... My first attempt. They turned out pretty good. Used caps frome lowes and rubber grommets for strain relief along with shrink and flex tubing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Wielage Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hey, Matt! Where do you get the colored end caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Mark, maybe you missed it due to the typo there: <Used caps frome lowes> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I painted them! Testor model paint. We'll see how durable it is. The end caps are pretty porous so im hoping it sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Miramontes Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 What's the benefit of making these vs. buying right angle nuetrik connectors? I guess I'm not seeing it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toy Robot Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 What's the benefit of making these vs. buying right angle nuetrik connectors? I guess I'm not seeing it here. Put a right angle Neutrik connector on a RX in your bag and you'll find out instantly that there is not enough room for that massive connector. Use something like these and they are nice and small and don't interfere at all with what's going on in your bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Wexler Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Standard right angle connectors (from Neutriks for example) are actually quite large. Making our own custom ones (as demonstrated here) is the best way to go and the most cost effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shastapete Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I was digging around the Neutrik site last night and came across these: http://www.neutrik.com/en/accessories/accessories/modules/ Male and female ends with a M17x1 thread on the back, haven't seen one in person, but it looks like it could be a step towards an easy fabricated solution. Now someone just needs to whip up a threaded end with strain relief, probably will still be a bit bigger than the diy solutions but not by too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Almalvez Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 is anyone taking orders to make these? id be down. would be great for my bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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