jason porter

DIY- Right Angle XLRs

409 posts in this topic

I've also used the metal hole plugs with success. Except I drilled a small hole to pass the cable through. Also, I decided to not use any adhesive filler and just bend out the prongs a bit and snap the plugs in to the end of the neutrik shell. This seems to work well, hold tightly and it keeps the plug serviceable. Also that way I don't have to make a mess with glue or epoxy.

I used a zip tie and heat shrink to provide stain relief and a few drops of super glue to hold the pin insert in place. I'll take some pics inside and out if folks are interested.

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I've also used the metal hole plugs with success. Except I drilled a small hole to pass the cable through. Also, I decided to not use any adhesive filler and just bend out the prongs a bit and snap the plugs in to the end of the neutrik shell. This seems to work well, hold tightly and it keeps the plug serviceable. Also that way I don't have to make a mess with glue or epoxy.

I used a zip tie and heat shrink to provide stain relief and a few drops of super glue to hold the pin insert in place. I'll take some pics inside and out if folks are interested.

Your method sounds very interesting and a lot less messy. Would love to see some pictures.

 

Eric

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I used 5/8" medal caps from Home Depot, removed the prongs, the (outer) epoxy holds the cap securely. Not serviceable.. but is low profile and robust.. Day 58 of a 62 day shoot and no problems with the four I made to Alex's great instructions, except for the metal cap.

BTW, Thanks Alex

 

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I used 5/8" medal caps from Home Depot, removed the prongs, the (outer) epoxy holds the cap securely. Not serviceable.. but is low profile and robust.. Day 58 of a 62 day shoot and no problems with the four I made to Alex's great instructions, except for the metal cap.

BTW, Thanks Alex

 

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You are very welcome Rick, I'm glad you got to make some. I'm about to make a few more myself. I'm using mine as well with zero failures. I've been following this thread with much interest, and I just love the work many of you are doing. I think the DIY section might be my favorite on this forum.

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Wow.. This was super hard to make.

I wasted a few connectors figuring out how get it done but i thinks i gots it!

Check it out!

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Wow.. This was super hard to make.

I wasted a few connectors figuring out how get it done but i thinks i gots it!

Check it out!

How did you stop the epoxy gumming up the locking release?

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How did you stop the epoxy gumming up the locking release?

Trade secrets my friend!! :)

 

Seriously though...It took me a few minutes to figure out!

After soldering the joints, I trimmed down the spacer so it fit just underneath the edge of the connector...then I cut the side so it would fit over the cable.

 

I dropped a little hot glue in, pushed in the spacer and let it set, making sure the release still worked...then I filled it up with more hot glue. When it was solid, I trimmed it flush and dropped a spot of colored epoxy on it.

 

To be honest, the hardest part of the whole operation is soldering the joints. The cable I made there is a TA3. I've got kind of a system down for how to trim the leads and I've offset the hole so that the common can never touch pin 2 or 3.

 

I'm not sure I could or even would do a TA5...I dont have any cable with more than 3 conductors thats small enough to make it work.

 

Quite a bit of trial and LOTS of errors. I think I burnt thru 5 connectors!

 

I'll post more pics when I have time

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How did you stop the epoxy gumming up the locking release?

 

Easy, cut a small piece of pick & pluck open cell foam and fill the space under the release. Here's my version of the low profile XLRs. 

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Here are a few more pics of my workflow on the low pro ta3s and xlr.
 

Awhile back I picked up a drill press jig from Harbor Freight...great money spent! Makes drilling a breeze!

 

The problem: This SRb sits in my bag...thats what happens to the cable.

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The Solution!

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I tried to take pictures along the way, but I have severe memore loss at times so this is all I have! :)

 

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End to end, I have roughly 20-25 minutes labor in each cable...Not including wait time for the hot glue.

 

I gotta hand it to those guys at Kortwich..These TA3's were not easy to figure out! Their other "right angle" cables are awesome! I don't really see myself doing Lemos or 10 pin Hirose but these are pretty easy for me now that I have a workflow.

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Just looking all of these amazing diy low profile connectors and thinking to make some by myself the same way...

It is not so clear to me the last part of the process, so: how do you apply the final glue (what's it, epoxy?) with that perfect round shape and that precision? Then, is that already coloured or do you paint it after it is dried?

Thanks, brilliant work everybody!

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I found an easy solution for the caps. BUTTONS, you have lots of them in every yarn shop, lots of colours and sizes

 

 

BTW, how can I google this kind of cable with the nylon shield? i have been looking it for ages

 

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BTW, how can I google this kind of cable with the nylon shield? i have been looking it for ages

 

 

TECHFLEX... google for it... 

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I finally got around to cranking some of these out. The process wasn't that hard - thanks to all the tips here. They turned out pretty good though I will make some minor changes to the next run. I will also try my hand at some TA5's. 

 

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Here's a set i made for a buddy to use with his SRb.. I made a ta5 for my zaxcom but ended up having other issues with it.. And im plugging in to a sta100 so its a big awkward cluster! I used canare star quad.. Was not easy but not impossible ba2ety2u.jpg Also added my connectors to this ABox for a client of mine. 5e4esega.jpg

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Canare star quad is overkill for those short jumpers. Any two conductor shielded cable will work just fine. I've found that 3.5mm diameter Redco  TGS-1 is perfect for these applications. It has a spiral shield and a separate ground/drain wire. About $.25/ft at http://www.redco.com.

 

Eric

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Hey, Eric, excuse my ignorance (I know you won't) but what do you do with the so-called "drain wire" when cabling up these things?

Do you connect the drain wire also to pin 1 as we do with the shield?

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Jeff,

 

The drain wire is under the spiral shield so they are always in contact. I use the already twisted drain wire as the ground connection. It's a lot easier to use the drain as the ground than to retwist the spiral shield. Be aware that not all audio cables have a drain wire with the shield so in that case the shield becomes the ground to pin 1.

 

Eric

 

P.S. Contrary to popular belief you are forgiven.

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Matt

what colored epoxy are you using?

Its actually clear.. I color it myself with an acrylic base..

Eric, i only use star quad for ta5s..otherwise i have some belden and standard canare cable for xlrs.

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Working on my own for my 411's.  Having a real hard time soldering the connectors.  Drilled the hole directly next to pin 2.

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