DIY- Right Angle XLRs

[SeeKai]

Wow.. This was super hard to make.

I wasted a few connectors figuring out how get it done but i thinks i gots it!

Check it out!

I made an attempt at prototyping a low profile female xlr and every time I look at it I think of the beautiful coloured epoxy finish on your ones...mine is a mess in comparison!

I opted to file out a groove for the cable to sit in as there's no access to a pillar drill here for the moment.   The problem I experienced was that the hot glue wasn't bonding to the XLR housing on the inside and the pin block and dried glue assembly simply ejected when attempts to connect a male XLR were made.  

 

Considering I won't be purchasing a pillar drill in the near future - I'm thinking that a redesign might have to include some sort of tactical superglueing in order to make everything durable and field-worthy (or upgrading to epoxy over hot glue).

Not looking forward to the search for a suitable end cap here in the UK .

Here's to attempt number 2... 

[SeeKai]

I finally had a chance to whip up a couple prototypes!

 

One is a low profile female XLR-3 and the other is a low-profile XLR-5 (for a Zaxcom Stereo Receiver)

 

The XLR-3 just needs some type of "cap" to protect it from the elements.  The XLR-5, I used Sugru and really cocked-up the finish.  I need to find or make a proper cap, maybe from a plastic end cap of some type.

I've been playing with sugru as well.  I've found that its very prone to tearing though...getting a smooth finish with it is really difficult too.

Worked a treat as a DIY grommett for my "hacking" an aicent rycote zepp into a BBG though.  

[Jeff Wexler]

Hardest part so far has beren finding hole plugs for the back of the XLRs.

Still looking.

 

Re-posting for Eric:

 

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get 1/2" hole plugs.

 

Eric

 

[soundslikejustin]

I've been playing with sugru as well. I've found that its very prone to tearing though...getting a smooth finish with it is really difficult too.

Coat your fingers in dish soap or handwash when you want to smooth it out.

[Rick Reineke]

As Jeff stated, I used the 5/8" Home Depot plugs on (full sized) female XLRs. I cut off the tongs, they seat nicely and  the epoxy holds them securly.

[Eric Toline]

See Kai:

 

I don't understand why you're having hot glue issues. I've used the hot glue as filler in over 100 low profile XLR's both male & female and have never had any complaints about pin blocks coming loose. There has to be a logical reason yours are.

 

Eric 

[Jack Norflus]

I just used these:

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_139460-37672-881283_0__?productId=3109069

[soundtrane]

<no access to a pillar drill here for the moment.>

 

if you have a vise and make a guide hole using a hammer and a punch, you should be able to drill with a steady hand... 

[Jack Norflus]

I made my holes with a hand drill.

[carbonhobbit]

I made my holes with a hand drill.

 

When I first read this, a brace and bit came to mind. I'm guessing you used a portable drill powered by AC or battery.

 

Scott....

[Jack Norflus]

Yep just a standard dewalt ac hand drill.

[thebrengun]

When I first read this, a brace and bit came to mind. I'm guessing you used a portable drill powered by AC or battery.

 

Scott....

 

This was also my thought! "Wow!" I exclaimed.

[SeeKai]

See Kai:

 

I don't understand why you're having hot glue issues. I've used the hot glue as filler in over 100 low profile XLR's both male & female and have never had any complaints about pin blocks coming loose. There has to be a logical reason yours are.

 

Eric 

 

I have a few theories - air pockets, the quality of the hot glue I was using etc.  I really liked the idea of everything being held in place by the glue though, so I'm going to stick with it for attempt 2 and try and achieve a better bond.

 

<no access to a pillar drill here for the moment.>

 

if you have a vice and make a guide hole using a hammer and a punch, you should be able to drill with a steady hand... 

I'll see what I can knock up Vin.  Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[bendybones]

So to those using hole plugs, are u then glueing the hole plugs into place?

If so, is the hot glue brittle enough that the plugs can be removed?

[Eric Toline]

The hole plugs are held in place by the hot glue surrounding the legs of the hole plug. The hot glue never gets brittle, it just hardens in place. To remove the hole plugs you have to heat them with a heat gun to soften the hot glue enough to remove them.

 

Eric

[Eric Toline]

See Kai,

 

I've used many different brands of hot glue with out any problems. I fill the entire space with hot glue and then insert the hole plug after straightening the prongs to be parallel with the inside walls of the XLR. You do have to bend one prong flat to make a space for the cable. Clamping the entire finished assembly in a vise this way <----->  while the hot glue cools insures the hole plug will be held in place against the back of the XLR.

 

Eric

[SeeKai]

Copy that Eric - I'm going back for round two a little later in the week so I'll see how I get on.  

[studiomprd]

" i only use star quad for ta5s.. "

audio snob...

 

I mostly find drain wires when the shield is a foil wrap...

[Eric Toline]

Right. The drain wire is the ground as you can't connect/solder the foil wrap to a pin.

 

Eric

[Nathaniel Robinson]

I built a few cables to keep the routing under my Maxx neater. The "custom" exit angle keeps strain off the connectors as well.

 

The connectors are Neutrik NC3MX and knock off female connectors (sold as Neutrik on eBay ). They were cut down and notched with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel. I should've notched a little deeper; the plastic cap doesn't sit completely flush as-is. I used Hillman 9/16" plugs, available at Lowes for about $0.50 each. The plug also required a notch with the Dremel. I used hot glue as a filler.

 

Next time I need to pay a little more attention to the female side. On this round, the hot glue impedes the push release, making it very difficult to remove from my Lectro receivers. Silver lining, there's no way they are popping out in the bag, ha.

 

I used Canare L-4E5C mini starquad. Next time I will likely use the thinner and more flexible Mogami W2697.

[Eric Toline]

Block the space at the back of the release with a piece of pick & pluck foam when using hot glue. Keeps the hot glue out perfectly.

 

Eric

[Crussell]

Block the space at the back of the release with a piece of pick & pluck foam when using hot glue. Keeps the hot glue out perfectly.

 

Eric

nice tip.  very nice

[Rob Lewis]

First couple after i figured it out.

[Eric Toline]

Nice work Rob but if I might, for bag use you'll want a light flexible cable. Even the Canare LE5 is a bit heavy. I've found the Redco TGS-1 to be just right. 2conductor w/ spiral shield and a separate drain wire that's pre twisted to make soldering fast, neat & clean. From www.redco.com at $.25/ft. Here's the TGS-1 used as a replacement for a stretched out HP coily cable for a set of Sony 7506, was 9ft stretched out now 4' with the the TGS-1.

 

Eric

[Matt Radlauer]

Nice job rob! I switched from a stiff belden cable to the le5 after modifying a Wooden Camera A-Box for a client. I haven't seen that the le5 is any heavier than my belden cable.. But it is way more flexible.. I think its easier to work with. . To me the short lengths make weight negligible especially when you consider that you are eliminating the plastic connector end.. So maybe its splitting hairs? Maybe hit glue and epoxy are lighter than metal caps? :-) In the end I worry less about weight than the having cleaner routing and a narrowed profile minus the end connectors.