RadoStefanov Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 How reliable are DPA MicroDOt adapters? Thinking about buying my new mics with microdot to avoid repairing Lemos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Didn't have much success with them myself, they were always coming loose at exactly the wrong moment. And contrary to recent reports, I thought pin 1 wasn't connected to the shield, so no good for Zaxcoms. Someone recently said they had good results though so maybe that's changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Thomas Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 You have to do them up tight, they come with a tool for tightening them. I've had one die on me in a couple of years- thread came off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 sweat can kill one... my experience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I've used them a bit and haven't encountered any trouble. Note: Even though they have different model numbers, the DPA MicroDot to Lemo 3-pin adapter for Sennheiser (DAD 6003) and the one for Zaxcom (DAD 3057) are identical but have different model numbers "for marketing purposes" according to word back from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S Harber Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I used to cut the microdot connectors out of line as they were problematic on a regular basis even after we tried tread lock, shrink-wrap and other solutions. Avoid them as they are definitely a weak link and will fail. Now I buy my DPAs pigtailed and solder them myself. Now failure free. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitter Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 If you want reliability, solder you own connectors. If you want to take advantage of the microdot connection adapters, you have to tighten and protect the connection between the mic plug and adapter. Use the tightening tool, loop the cable at the plug end, use the plastic net that comes with the adapters and shrink wrap(best) or tape everything together. I use this technique for years and Its been rock solid.Don't leave the connection between mic and adapter unprotected, this will increase the risk of failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Constantin Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I have used the DADs a lot. I use the Lectro and Zax versions almost every day, and I rent out the Sennheiser EW version. Every single one of them has seen a lot of abuse, but I have not had a single failure. The key really is to tighten the connector, but that's an error you'll make once, as the resulting noise is absolutely horrible. Other than that I don't apply any special treatment (I also don't use the supplied tool for tightening) and it works well - so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 If you want reliability, solder you own connectors. If you want to take advantage of the microdot connection adapters, you have to tighten and protect the connection between the mic plug and adapter. Use the tightening tool, loop the cable at the plug end, use the plastic net that comes with the adapters and shrink wrap(best) or tape everything together. I use this technique for years and Its been rock solid.Don't leave the connection between mic and adapter unprotected, this will increase the risk of failure. all my 10+ lavs are wired in to the connector. But very often I have to repair the lemos. DAD lemo looks very sturdy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 btw - if you cut off a microdot to solder in another connector, the DPA warranty stays... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 all my 10+ lavs are wired in to the connector. But very often I have to repair the lemos. DAD lemo looks very sturdy... Which connector have you been using -- push-pull or screw-on? I've found the screw-on to be pretty dependable if assembled properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I had 5 screw type limos wired las summer by one of the usual suspects and 3 of them failed the first month. I have one know wired by somebody else that i really have to force in while screwing. It does not push and pull at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I thought you had mentioned some time ago that you preferred the push-pull type -- that's why I asked. You should definitely have someone else wire them -- they are usually much more reliable than that. Also, are they all genuine Lemo brand or are any a knock-off? I wired a Lemo copy for one connector (I didn't know that's what it was until it came) and it convinced me that the genuine thing is well worth the money -- even as costly as those little buggers are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I thought you had mentioned some time ago that you preferred the push-pull type -- that's why I asked. You should definitely have someone else wire them -- they are usually much more reliable than that. Also, are they all genuine Lemo brand or are any a knock-off? I wired a Lemo copy for one connector (I didn't know that's what it was until it came) and it convinced me that the genuine thing is well worth the money -- even as costly as those little buggers are. I prefer the push pull, and have had less problems with strain on them. I find the strain relief and the screw type easier to break, and have had several break on me. The problem I have been running into on the push pull is that talent will unscrew the connector instead of pulling it out. Then of course the little metal plates fall out and the wire breaks. This has happened to me 4 times in the last two months, (not once before that) I'm considering heat shrinking the back of the connector so people don't try to unscrew it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 ... I'm considering heat shrinking the back of the connector so people don't try to unscrew it. That sounds like a good solution. I've had that happen with TA5s. I even had a wardrobe mistress manage such a dissassembly procedure. As for 3-pin Lemos, I prefer the screw-on type as they're not as tall and therefore receive less damaging leverage if bumped sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 That sounds like a good solution. I've had that happen with TA5s. I even had a wardrobe mistress manage such a dissassembly procedure. As for 3-pin Lemos, I prefer the screw-on type as they're not as tall and therefore receive less damaging leverage if bumped sideways. I had the same thought as far as leverage goes, but so far I have not seen an issue. The lemo connector is very sturdy when connected, it seems like it would be very difficult to damage. I've just spent the last three months with my trx900la's with push pull connectors in the pockets of carpenters building tree houses, wearing harnesses on ropes, tool bags, etc. I know there was some undue stresses on the case and connectors, but the only ones I had break were disasembled by the crew. The one thing I like about ta5's (switchcraft) as opposed to the lemo's is that even if they take the connector apart, there isn't strain put on the solder connection. I suppose the screw on Lemo's would alleviate my issue of cast unscrewing the connectors too, however I have had a cast member once get frustrated trying to unscrew one and just yank the mic wire out. I wish they would just ask me for help. Ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I prefer the push pull, and have had less problems with strain on them. I find the strain relief and the screw type easier to break, and have had several break on me. The problem I have been running into on the push pull is that talent will unscrew the connector instead of pulling it out. Then of course the little metal plates fall out and the wire breaks. This has happened to me 4 times in the last two months, (not once before that) I'm considering heat shrinking the back of the connector so people don't try to unscrew it. Heat shrink the the heck of the top of the connector. That is what I do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Have no idea if the connector is genuine... I can see both connectors having pros and cons. Screw type - as you said very dependable. Sometimes however the the connector gets stuck and force screwing over and over kills the connector. Push Pull: I like how quick you can mic and demic somebody. But definitely they get bump a lot more and actually can start to wiggle inside the TX. I do prefer them push pull because I can do repairs myself. I might try to find a LEMO tool for the screw type connection. I have seen DIY tools but rather just buy the original one. ANy idea where to get that tool? I thought you had mentioned some time ago that you preferred the push-pull type -- that's why I asked. You should definitely have someone else wire them -- they are usually much more reliable than that. Also, are they all genuine Lemo brand or are any a knock-off? I wired a Lemo copy for one connector (I didn't know that's what it was until it came) and it convinced me that the genuine thing is well worth the money -- even as costly as those little buggers are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I think the main reason for failure in Lemos is when you connect and disconnect them. I am sure if I just screw the lemo and never take it out it will last a lot longer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 ... ANy idea where to get that tool? Are you referring to a tool for tightening the collar? i.e. needlenose with thin tips that will fit into the tiny slots on either side of the collar? I just use a pair of needle-tipped pliers. They're similar to needlenose but have small, round tips. However, the Lemos I've been working with more recently are a bit easier. I don't know if they're a new, improved model or older (UPDATE: I think they're likely a version manufactured by someone else). I got them on closeout from an electronics dealer (they don't show them on closeout on their site any more). There are a couple of differences on these. The metal sleeve that fits below the screw-in collar is not split as it is on the originals (that's both a plus and a minus). However, the collar is taller and, while it still has the notches, it protrudes enough that it can be tightened from the side with needlenose pliers. They don't have the crimped collar that is hard to reuse. When you tighten the collar, it clamps the cable much like a Neutrik XLR does. Once assembled, they look the same as the other version. ...YIKES -- I JUST DISCOVERED!... I think the ones that I mentioned above are not actual LEMO brand. In looking closely, they don't have LEMO written on them which I think all the Lemo manufactured ones do. That revises some of my thinking. For one thing, these are working nicely. For the most part, anyone who has ever had issues tightening the collar will probably like these better. Here are some quick cell phone photos of each: Actual Lemo. Including a boot (not shown), this has 7 parts. . . This is the version I've been wiring up a bunch of recently. It has 5 parts. I need to call my supplier and ask for more information on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 John, I would be curious to know what part they are, and who manufactures them. Are they still a crimp strain relief like the Lemo? Rado, The Lemo spanner wrenches can be bought at Mouser or other Lemo dealers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 ... Are they still a crimp strain relief like the Lemo? ... Scan reading again <g>? I addressed that in my previous post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Scan reading again ? I addressed that in my previous post. You caught me, i completely missed that paragraph. Thanks K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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