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darwinnovicio

Soldering a hirose 4 pin to this battery holder

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Hi! 

 

Im planning to solder a 4 pin Hirose connector to the negative and positive wires of this battery holder, planning to make this a "just in case" spare battery if i run out of NP1 during a shoot. Id like to know if, coz i dont have a 4 pin hirose connector yet, which one will be the positive side of that and which one will be the negative in the hirose? Or will it just any side?

 

Attached to this post is the battery holder that im saying.

 

Thank you so much.

post-10389-0-44413400-1426090932_thumb.j

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Hi! 

 

Im planning to solder a 4 pin Hirose connector to the negative and positive wires of this battery holder, planning to make this a "just in case" spare battery if i run out of NP1 during a shoot. Id like to know if, coz i dont have a 4 pin hirose connector yet, which one will be the positive side of that and which one will be the negative in the hirose? Or will it just any side?

 

Attached to this post is the battery holder that im saying.

 

Thank you so much.

 

Pins 1 is ground/black wire, Pin 4 is positive/red wire. There should be a marking on the pin block that indicates which of the 4 pins are Pin 1 and directions on the Hirose package as to which direction is pin 2 from pin one, etc.

View from solder side of pin block.

 

                                                      4    I    1

                                                      O        O

                                                      O        O

                                                      3          2          

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"I'll look for a hirose connector now."

I usually go to http://www.markertek.com/product/hr10a7p4p/hirose-hr10a-7p-4p-4-pin-male-push-pull-connector-with-7mm-male-shell .  Markertek.com has great prices and most likely it's in-stock. (plus, the owner and folks there are real nice) FWIW, Markertek's HQ and warehouse are in the NYS Woodstock area.

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I'd also get a voltmeter just in case. It'll show you reverse polarity in case something wasn't as it should have been and it keepd you from frying something as expensive as, say, an IFB100. And it's a useful tool to have around anyway

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Jason as much as the crimp is a pain in the ass I have had issues with the fingers on the strain release. The would not tighten up or one of the fingers would break off.

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"If you've never soldered one of these connectors before, I suggest you spend a few more dollars and get this one"

>> For sure.. soldering cable connections to a Hirose, Lemo or other very small multi-pin connectors is not a job for the inexperienced... as I'm sure my esteemed friend Eric will attest.  (liquor may be necessary afterwards.. to celebrate or deaden the pain of burns and defeat)

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What an exacting soldering procedure. Does anyone put shrink tubing over the connectors? What is the advantage of the particular recommended hirose connectors?

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look for Hirose on ebay, Mauser, Digikey, etc, better chances of delivery to Philipines... 

3 hours ago, Lenry said:

What an exacting soldering procedure. Does anyone put shrink tubing over the connectors? What is the advantage of the particular recommended hirose connectors?

yes, on one of the leads. i usually use the solder version, either with the crimp on the back to hold the entire cable (with grub screw) and a rubber boot, OR, the version with a collet nut and no rubber boot. 

I have four crimp versions, which i will use for the next Hirose I build. I'm not afraid of a crimp. :)

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It is my LEAST favorite connector to solder and I have years of bench time.  I hate them worse than 5-p Lemos!

Anyway, enough about me.  But if you don't have a good deal of soldering experience, I'd suggest finding a pre-made pigtail (maybe from SD or Remote Audio, but someone sells them) and then either 1) splice, solder and heat shrink the wires from the pigtail to the battery box or 2) put an XLR male 4-pin on the pigtail and an XLR female on the battery box.  XLR 4-p are the sorta universal power connectors in our world. Pin 1 is ground, pin 4 is hot just like the Hirose 4-p.  BTW, the crimp Hiroses are more robust.

D.

 

 

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I agree, I hate working with these connectors.  I switched my bags to the Audioroot distros, and the only thing I don't like about it is the use of these connectors.  I was happy with the cheap switchcraft DC connectors.  These connectors have a max rating of 2 Amps also, which is fine in a bag, but seems very low as a choice for a primary DC connector.  Even the TA series connectors are rated at 5 amps, and are much easier to work with.

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