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With the primary intent of losing weight and making my cart more mobile and easier to manage, I built a new vertical cart frame with 8020.  I also built a new 1RU DC system with 8 individually switched outputs powered by either AC or a 20Ah LiFePO4 pelican battery.  I don't have final weights, but this cart is over 40lbs lighter than my previous cart based on a magliner vertical junior.

After having my monitors broken in the past, I moved the bnc inputs and outputs along with 2 audio in/outs to the base of the cart by the wheels so the cables laying on the ground and a bit protected and don't create a trip hazard.  Also built a new script holder with a ram mount adjustable arm.

 

WE-Sound_Cart-6.thumb.jpg.b66f5afb0ac99bWE-Sound_Cart-5.thumb.jpg.cd2fdd20d74965WE-Sound_Cart-1.thumb.jpg.9380fd4268ed94WE-Sound_Cart-2.thumb.jpg.0638b96dcac762WE-Sound_Cart-7.thumb.jpg.7f5d7ef58a435cWE-Sound_Cart-3.thumb.jpg.601b3c00f4452bWE-Sound_Cart-4.thumb.jpg.a074d52db4972e

Edited by Wandering Ear

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This is fabulous! I'm grabbing all these images and they're going straight to the Gallery of Sound Carts. I do have some questions: I love the inboard wheels for all the right reasons but I'm curious why you didn't go with a straight axle all the way across instead of individual spindle-style axles. Also, you went with fixed legs in front rather than the typical caster wheels. The advantage, of course, is stability of the cart when you finally settle but the disadvantage is that any move requires that you hike it back on the rear and only wheels. Lastly, I wanted to solve the problem of cables leaving the back of the cart (like to Video Village and in my case, duplex boom cables) but I didn't do it by putting the connection-patch panel down low. I did it by using some marine parts (I don't know what they're called properly) that are designed to hold rope lines in place. I mounted those low on the cart, ran the cables to those points and then they go out from the cart down low and with some strain relief.

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One more thing: the images went up very nicely and are displayed beautifully with our new site format and software update. I don't know how you got 2 images to sit side by side inline within the post (but I like it!).

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This is fabulous! I'm grabbing all these images and they're going straight to the Gallery of Sound Carts. I do have some questions: I love the inboard wheels for all the right reasons but I'm curious why you didn't go with a straight axle all the way across instead of individual spindle-style axles. Also, you went with fixed legs in front rather than the typical caster wheels. The advantage, of course, is stability of the cart when you finally settle but the disadvantage is that any move requires that you hike it back on the rear and only wheels. Lastly, I wanted to solve the problem of cables leaving the back of the cart (like to Video Village and in my case, duplex boom cables) but I didn't do it by putting the connection-patch panel down low. I did it by using some marine parts (I don't know what they're called properly) that are designed to hold rope lines in place. I mounted those low on the cart, ran the cables to those points and then they go out from the cart down low and with some strain relief.

​Thanks Jeff.  I considered a solid through axel, but I wasn't sure it'd be necessary and adds several pounds.  As is, the axels run through two mounting plates and feel very stiff.  The way the wheels are attached here is the second option I tried, at first they were out board for stability, but after wheeling it around, I realized I didn't need the extra width, and the nuts on the outside of the wheels ended up being the widest part of the cart, or the thing that will scrape the walls.  I need to pull the wheels off again and shorten the bolts (axels) which will get rid of the nut on the outside of the mounting plate, and will be replaced with a rubber bumper like I have on the front rails of the cart.

As for front casters, I considered adding them, but I decided against it in favor of simplicity and stability.  There are rubber feet on the bottom of the front rails that sit on the ground, and the cart feels great when it's parked.  It's now light enough that I can make small adjustments from the front of the cart by just picking up the front and moving it, it's actually very easy, but wouldn't be if the cart was heavy.  I can always add casters at any time if I don't like the legs.

I like your solution for cable exits.  I may have to borrow that idea and add that for any additional cabling I may have leave the cart like antenna cables etc...  I figured the video feeds are not going to be changed much, so I made a 4 channel video snake to run through the cart keeping the wiring tied in and clean.

 

One more thing: the images went up very nicely and are displayed beautifully with our new site format and software update. I don't know how you got 2 images to sit side by side inline within the post (but I like it!).

I'm still learning the new look, at first I was surprised I didn't see a preview post button, until I started adding photos and realized the text box is now a live preview.  The vertical photos defaulted side by side when I added them, so I'm guessing there is a fair bit of auto layout scripts at work.  So far it's a big improvement over the old forum software.​

 

 

Very nice and light, what make is the patch strip with drop down lids please?

It's a blank patch panel, the rubber connector covers are made by neutrik. Part number SCDF or SCDM.  The named plates​ are custom label plates made by Redco audio.

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Jeff do you mean "cleat", or perhaps "cam cleat"?

Hey, Miles, I think you're right, they're definitely in the category of CLEATS. Thanks.

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Thanks Jan.  I took lots of inspiration from many of the carts found here.  I still have lots more planned for this cart, but it's at a great simplistic and functional place right now.

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Cool cart. As you know I'm developing some cart deigns and I'd be interested to know the following;

Q1) How do you secure your kit that isn't rack mounted?

Q2) The square component that you used to secure the 8020 frame and the wheels...what is it made of? I tried a similar idea but with any major weight it simply snapped off with the stress. 

Q3) What width of 8020 did you choose to use?

Q4) what are the mounts you used for your iPad? They looks great!

Good job

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I'm sure Wandering Ear will chime in here for you Matthew but I'm wondering what you refer to when you ask the question about mounting things that are not rack mountable. Are you referring to the fitting that are being used for the iPad and the sides? I see you did ask about the iPad but I don't know what kit you are asking about that isn't already mounted via rack rails other than the (removable) battery case.

iPad_mount.thumb.jpg.fcef3a3fed784398093sides-mount.thumb.jpg.1774891f06e0d85e2a

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Cool cart. As you know I'm developing some cart deigns and I'd be interested to know the following;

Q1) How do you secure your kit that isn't rack mounted?

Q2) The square component that you used to secure the 8020 frame and the wheels...what is it made of? I tried a similar idea but with any major weight it simply snapped off with the stress. 

Q3) What width of 8020 did you choose to use?

Q4) what are the mounts you used for your iPad? They looks great!

Good job

Thanks Matt.  I like your cart designs too.  They look really nice.

Q1 - I'm guessing you're asking about the bag with my nomad, receivers etc?  I use a kortwich bag with the kortwich waist belt when I'm wearing it.  I use the same waist belt wrapped around the top shelf to keep the bag secure when on the cart.  I am considering having a pair of straps made that will be permanently mounted to the cart and simply clip into the bag when I'm on the cart.

I do a lot of work out of the bag, and am finding more and more even on cart based work I need to be able to pull my bag quickly and retain the same core functionality as on my cart.  My whole cart system is built as a modular system expanding the bag, adding faders, monitors, additional ifb channels (I mounted an ifb200 under the top shelf above the monitors) etc...

 

Q2 - I will try to take some close up photos.  There are two aluminum plates sandwiching the frame and attached with 3 bolts each.  The Axel, which is 12mm threaded stainless steel rod, is threaded through both plates, and has lock nuts.  The plates are made by 8020.

 

Q3 - I used 25 series profiles, and chose to make everything metric because it's easier to work with, but made getting the right pieces of hardware locally a little more difficult.  As a side note, I coupled the frame pieces using the double anchor fasteners, and they are fantastic.  More expensive, but incredibly strong and stiff as well as low profile.

 

Q4 - I use the ram mount system for my iPad, and liked it enough that I use the same arm for the script holder I fabricated.  They even make a t slot ball, but I chose to use a bolt on plate instead.

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I'm sure Wandering Ear will chime in here for you Matthew but I'm wondering what you refer to when you ask the question about mounting things that are not rack mountable. Are you referring to the fitting that are being used for the iPad and the sides? I see you did ask about the iPad but I don't know what kit you are asking about that isn't already mounted via rack rails other than the (removable) battery case.

iPad_mount.thumb.jpg.fcef3a3fed784398093sides-mount.thumb.jpg.1774891f06e0d85e2a

Jeff, sorry I should have been clearer in my question. Through developing my carts I have had many potential users ask how they can mount their kit that isn't designed to be rack mounted. Such as IFB transmitters, Sound Devices mixers etc. 

I'm attempting to come up with some solutions apart from duel lock (Velcro). I was interested to hear if anybody has any innovative solutions. 

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When I first got the mix8 I was looking for a mounting solution for my cart, and I ended up with a 3 RU aluminum drawer, and a custom cut foam insert.  When I get an Oasis, I will likely do something similar.  I like the protection the rack drawer gives.

For recorders and such, the only way I've come up with is to make a custom bracket that the recorder body screws into.  Since my cart is designed with the intention of taking the recorder off, I haven't needed to do that.

The IFB200 I have under the top shelf is inside one of the Zaxcom receiver sleeves, which is attached with velcro.  I plan to remove the velcro and screw the mount in at some point.

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I know that 80/20 part and it was a clever use taking two of them and sandwiching with the 80/20 profile in between. This actually provides good support span across the length of the axle. I still prefer a straight across axle, just seems that much more secure and also provides a convenient place to put your foot when hiking the cart back for a move. It does, of course, add weight. One of my carts I used a stainless steel rod for the axle --- probably one of the heavier items on the cart.

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Well done, and if you don't mind, I'm cribbing several of your ideas for my own cart.

Where did you source the acrylic (or other material) for your script holder?

Thanks!

 

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I had TAP plastics fabricate the 1/4" acrylic and drill the holes, they also sell the spring clips.  I bought mine from amazon, where I also bought the ram mount arm, and the LED clip on light.  The whole thing probably cost around $60.

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Or maybe the sticker will say I drink all coffee on this cart.

Really though, I haven't had problems with people putting drinks on my mixing cart. There isn't much of an open space.  My follow cart on the other hand.....

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Or maybe the sticker will say I drink all coffee on this cart.

Really though, I haven't had problems with people putting drinks on my mixing cart. There isn't much of an open space.  My follow cart on the other hand.....

​Yeah, I noticed you don't have much space to place anything on top. I was just messing around. =) 

My cart on the other hand has plenty of room so hence my frustration. =)

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