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Boom I nternally coiled cable strain relief


Ed Denton

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I have a K-Tek KE-79 and I want to internally coil cable it. I have bought the threaded XLR to fit in the base of the pole (Switchcraft part B3MAUH) but I'm wondering when install it, what kind of strain relief should I have where the internal cable joins the XLR connector? I imagine that when the boom is extended with the spring-like coiled cable it would put quite a bit of strain on the solder joints. I was thinking of putting a piece of plastic tubing around the terminals and fill it with epoxy to hold the cable in place. However this means the connector is no longer serviceable. Would you recommend using something softer that is removable such as silicone or hot-melt glue so I can pull it out if I need to get to the terminals again? This would obviously less sturdy though. What strain relief do they use in the K-Tek KE-79CC?

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Do not fill the back side of the connector with epoxy or anything like it. Once it hardens you'll never be able to repair any other breaks. Instead use a thin cable tie and pass it through the connector solder tab (the rectangular connector in the picture) and over the last coil in the cable and pull the cable tie tight as a strain relief. That's how K-Tek does it.

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On March 1, 2016 at 8:31 PM, Eric Toline said:

Do not fill the back side of the connector with epoxy or anything like it. Once it hardens you'll never be able to repair any other breaks. Instead use a thin cable tie and pass it through the connector solder tab (the rectangular connector in the picture) and over the last coil in the cable and pull the cable tie tight as a strain relief. That's how K-Tek does it.

I second this - works like a charm. You can leave a loop of slack at the solder end just before pulling the cable tie tight 

-Ken

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On 3/1/2016 at 6:31 PM, Eric Toline said:

Do not fill the back side of the connector with epoxy or anything like it. Once it hardens you'll never be able to repair any other breaks. Instead use a thin cable tie and pass it through the connector solder tab (the rectangular connector in the picture) and over the last coil in the cable and pull the cable tie tight as a strain relief. That's how K-Tek does it.

 

While, Eric T's (And, K-Tek's) apparent sanity should ultimately reign supreme, here -

And, understandably, prevail - For almost any DIY'ers, in this regard? ...

 

The following photos are only meant to illustrate, what might possibly be considered ... (nowadays)

An absolutely obscure (though, obviously, not impossible)  - 'nother way to do it?

 

(And, knocking on wood, here ...)

IIRC? - These (particular) part(s) of my pole(s) have given me the least amount of trouble?

 

These are on 20+ year old vdB poles   (As seen in use here, and here)

And though, while it would be apparent to most, that -

Yes, it does eat up internal space - And, does not allow for 'complete' collapse ...

I ain't gonna fix ... What ain't broke. YMMV

IMG_20160307_192536.thumb.jpg.350b1a2374

IMG_20160307_203153.thumb.jpg.592f971976

 

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Vdb's system works very well but requires some custom machined parts, putting threads on the edge of the connector, etc. 

I've used the zip tie in the ground tab method and it works well too. I suggest stripping the cable jacket back a half inch or so more than you need to allow extra length for the conductors to flex.

 

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