Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Does anyone know if and where it's possible to buy the colour coded low profile 3 pin XLR that Kortwich use on their 788 snake? Kortwich apparently machine them out of existing XLR's but the cost of the modified connectors is prohibitively expensive Malcolm Davies. A.m.p.s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studiomprd Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 " Kortwich apparently machine them out of existing XLR's " you answered your own question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 This is a cheap and easy solution: http://www.redco.com...exd.asp?id=1026 $0.57 a piece. And even cheaper: http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=676 $0.16 a piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Thomas Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 There's also a guy on taperssection that does them for US$3/connector on top of the original cable price, although shipping from the US could be more expensive: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133186.0 It's just cutting down the end of the connector and adding a flat coloured rubber end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 This is a cheap and easy solution: http://www.redco.com...exd.asp?id=1026 $0.57 a piece. And even cheaper: http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=676 $0.16 a piece Rado, I think the point is the low profile more than the color coding. At least, that's what i'm assuming here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I made these two connectors today by drilling a 4.5mm hole into the side of the connector, soldered the cable to the contacts (this is a little tricky but not too much of an issue) and mixed a clear epoxy with a pigment die and partially filled the connector with the mixture. For identification, I put a printed L and R onto the dried epoxy (aprox 15 minutes after I put in the initial mixture) made up a fresh clear batch and filled in the rest up to the top of the connector. Job took half an hour and looks really cool. Naturally, once the epoxy hardens, that's it for life. There is no repairing it down the line. I applied the same trick to other connectors using casting resin. This worked very well too but takes a bit longer to cure. The finish is a little glossier but the epoxy works just fine. Total cost: about $5.00 and a bit of labour time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 epoxy + dremel = re-access... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackHenry Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 epoxy + dremel = re-access... Actually, that = a mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael P Clark Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I made these with a dremel and a cap from Home Depot and a Switchcraft XLR, several years ago. they still hold up, and work. Pretty easy and cheap! Or try this thread for other ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael P Clark Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I made these two connectors today by drilling a 4.5mm hole into the side of the connector, soldered the cable to the contacts (this is a little tricky but not too much of an issue) and mixed a clear epoxy with a pigment die and partially filled the connector with the mixture. For identification, I put a printed L and R onto the dried epoxy (aprox 15 minutes after I put in the initial mixture) made up a fresh clear batch and filled in the rest up to the top of the connector. Job took half an hour and looks really cool. Naturally, once the epoxy hardens, that's it for life. There is no repairing it down the line. I applied the same trick to other connectors using casting resin. This worked very well too but takes a bit longer to cure. The finish is a little glossier but the epoxy works just fine. Total cost: about $5.00 and a bit of labour time. Those look great, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackHenry Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 DPA Microphones now make a slim XLR connector cable. Very nice & in three different lengths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Wexler Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 DPA Microphones now make a slim XLR connector cable. Very nice & in three different lengths. The DPA ones look a little too fragile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 DPA Microphones now make a slim XLR connector cable. Very nice & in three different lengths. Nice as it looks, I am in agreement with Jeff. Too fragile indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Trew Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Rado, I think the point is the low profile more than the color coding. At least, that's what i'm assuming here. Nice work, Sebastian. GT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 " Kortwich apparently machine them out of existing XLR's " you answered your own question! Thanks to everyone who answered the post except studiomprd who has a wonderful way of pointing out the bloody obvious but for Kortwich to charge $54 for a $1.25 XLR with a hole drilled in the side (this is the only machining that is done ) plus the coloured cap is a bit over the top in my book. I must not forget the Fed-Ex charge of $23 for shipping a small quantity. Anyway I sourced some coloured caps for the equivalent of 30 cents each, drilled the hole and what do you know? Job done. Malcolm Davies. A.m.p.s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berniebeaudry Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Thanks to everyone who answered the post except studiomprd who has a wonderful way of pointing out the bloody obvious but for Kortwich to charge $40 for a $1.25 XLR with a hole drilled in the side (this is the only machining that is done and) plus the coloured cap is a bit over the top in my book. Anyway I sourced some coloured caps for the equivalent of 30 cents each, drilled the hole and what do you know? Job done. Malcolm Davies. A.m.p.s. Malcolm, where did you get the colored caps? I've been making these low profiles for a while but was never happy with the capping technique. Thanks, Bernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Malcolm, where did you get the colored caps? I've been making these low profiles for a while but was never happy with the capping technique. Thanks, Bernie Bernie! The caps can be obtained from www.mossexpress.co.uk. They are the standard ribbed ones 16mm diameter. Regards, Malcolm Davies. A.m.p.s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_bollard Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Do you fill the XLR shell with epoxy or hot glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundslikejustin Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Do you fill the XLR shell with epoxy or hot glue? I used to use Epoxy, but I now use hot glue and caps, as it's easier to remove in case of a re-wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Immoral Mr Teas Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Bernie! The caps can be obtained from www.mossexpress.co.uk. They are the standard ribbed ones 16mm diameter. Regards, Malcolm Davies. A.m.p.s. Malcolm, Could you please provide a link to the actual cap you mean - I've had a look at their site but couldn't find a 'standard ribbed 16mm' plug or cap. Thanks, Jez Adamson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Malcolm, Could you please provide a link to the actual cap you mean - I've had a look at their site but couldn't find a 'standard ribbed 16mm' plug or cap. Thanks, Jez Adamson Jez it's part number 12512 but I must be honest the job is not as good as Kortwich or Stuart Torrance who is UK based. Eric Toline or Matt Raudler or the people on the other side of the pond. Stuart has done a superb job for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Immoral Mr Teas Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Thanks Malcolm. I've actually done a few homemade short XLRs myself over the years - the cheapest and easiest solution was using the (older) X series Neutrik plug, removing the rubber at end, then wiring with 2-3mm (belden?) cable, which is flexible enough to wrap back snugly onto the body of the XLR rather than stick out of the back (the common problem with so many 'short' mics and plugs) but saving me the hassle of drilling a side hole. My end plug was simply a rubber washer (2mm hole for cable) which happened to fit perfectly inside the XLR. Short enough (just) for 2 8040s on a custom bar arrangement in a side address AC-AF rycote (at most rotation/angles required). On the expensive end, I bought and imported two of the KTek side address XLRs, butchered a high quality cloth patch cable, and made hops for my SD302 to microtrack. It worked out at £80 for the 2 short cables but several years on I still think what a damn fine piece of work! Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerascal Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Thanks Malcolm. I've actually done a few homemade short XLRs myself over the years - the cheapest and easiest solution was using the (older) X series Neutrik plug, removing the rubber at end, then wiring with 2-3mm (belden?) cable, which is flexible enough to wrap back snugly onto the body of the XLR rather than stick out of the back (the common problem with so many 'short' mics and plugs) but saving me the hassle of drilling a side hole. My end plug was simply a rubber washer (2mm hole for cable) which happened to fit perfectly inside the XLR. Short enough (just) for 2 8040s on a custom bar arrangement in a side address AC-AF rycote (at most rotation/angles required). Jez Nice, any pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Immoral Mr Teas Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Nice, any pictures? Not to hand at the moment I'm afraid - but I'll try at some point. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Sonnenfeld Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Gotham Sound is also making the low profile right angle cables with 3D printed colored caps in XLR and TA3. I was in yesterday and saw them first hand. Very nicely made, lightweight, user serviceable and well priced. Call and ask for Dan, Sal, or Natalie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.