Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
820 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 3.3k views
Hello everybody I'm a freshly owner of a wonderful Nomad 10 ! I bought it used and the battery to maintains clock is dead... I'm very affraid to open the nomad... I saw a post about this topic but the photo is not enough to understand how to do... The xlr input is gone ! Maybe somebody from here can shoot a video about the disassembly ? It will be very very nice ! Thank you so much !
Last reply by John Blankenship, -
- 5 followers
- 29 replies
- 10.2k views
Can anyone suggest an off-the-shelf right angle (adjustable) TA3F field-serviceable connector that doesn't require an endoscope and a mechanical engineering degree to deploy? Have tried two versions from Usual Suspects, very expensive per each, hated them, to big too fragile too fussy. This is for a bespoke setup so I need to solder them myself (re a Kortwich commission). Is the only solution to hack up straight connectors and epoxy them up? I'd like something that I could change the cable-exit angle on in the future, as well as repair if they get damaged. thx
Last reply by dactylus, -
- 10 replies
- 2.3k views
The end cap on my venerable 416 has pulled off a couple times when removing a softie. What would be the best thing to use to glue it back on without it being a permanent bond or messing with the sound. Thanks, Bob
Last reply by Robert Buncher, -
- 4 replies
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Has anybody got experience using both Rycote and Rode windshield solutions?I am trying to mount a pair of Sennheiser MKH8050s in an ORTF configuration inside some wind protection for recording atmos outdoors. I have found a solution using a Rycote WS4 windshield and by making a couple of low-profile XLRs to get it all to fit inside.The problem is.. it fits, but only just. Even with the small mics and low-profile connectors, there is only about a millimetre or two between the inside of the windshield and the mics. This is causing the mics to bang against the inside with the slightest movement.I need just a little more space and so I am planning on buying a Rode windshield …
Last reply by The Immoral Mr Teas, -
- 8 replies
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I'm about to tear a Nagra III apart to replace a failed motor (broken commutator). I wonder if anyone here has attempted such a replacement, and would be interested to know how that turned out. I know that the Nagra III Service manual has dire warnings about disconnecting the motor shaft from the encoder wheel. No doubt Kudelski's ghost will haunt me, but I cannot see that this would be impossible. I will of course be replacing belts and clutch felts as well, but the motor encoder system is my current main concern.
Last reply by sigitask, -
- 7 replies
- 1.9k views
I have 2 Lectrosonics UCR 411, (block 26 -29) and several Sennheiser EK 100 G2, G3 and 2000, the latter are all with sma connector with external whip antennas, what do I need to combine all of them and use with a shark directional antenna? can I do it?
Last reply by Philip Perkins, -
- 8 replies
- 2.4k views
I just picked up a used 302 and some of the pots are a little scratchy. I opened it up and got some Stabilant 22 into the return level pots and they cleaned up nicely- now I'd like to give the rest a going over. Has anyone gone into the guts of one of these? I'm amazed at how much is packed into that case! I'm looking for any hints or tips, anything to be careful of, etc. I'm in a bit of a holding pattern since I thought I had TA3 connectors on hand to make link cables, but they were TA4. Thought I'd give the mixer a once over while I wait for parts- sure do wish Redco had a west coast office…
Last reply by Allen Rowand, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 4.6k views
In my old staff job I used to repair a lot of cables. I'm starting to get pretty good with the more fiddly jobs, small connectors etc. However, like many, I struggle with the litz type cable that COS11's and other lapel mics are made from. I feel like i'm soldering bits of plastic. Specifically the black wire in the mic seems to have a strand of strong nylon in the core, that remains when the copper strands seem to be burnt away during tinning. I'm not expecting a simple solution to this, but i'm going to master this skill even if it kills me. Can anyone advise on the best solder and temperatures to use whilst tinning and terminating this stuff…
Last reply by AlexQ, -
- 2 replies
- 2.2k views
Has anyone of you done one? Planning to do some. Short ones, lemo to xlr (from there, if needed i can extend and adapt...) I would put the resistors in the xlr plug, should work, no? Why is the "loop" from ground, around audio?
Last reply by Jakobk, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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I'm thinking about picking up a 302 as a utility mixer. The external power will work on 5v, would it be feasible to build a USB to Hirose cable to power it? Could be a good way to power it until I step up to a BDS, as well as an option for use out of the bag. Thanks!
Last reply by chrismedr, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
anyone knows how to bring the EU version 50 MW of rf power on a sk2000 Sennheiser to 100 MW? (like the US version?)
Last reply by alidav, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
Hi Guys. I'm needing to send a stereo out from a Sound Devices MixPre 6 into my Zaxcom Camera link. Does anyone know what the wiring configuration is from a Stereo 3.5mm jack to a TA5F?
Last reply by rich, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 9.4k views
Decided to make some proper right angle short XLRs for my bag; I previously had just cut the dust boot off the Neutriks, which shaved about half an inch but was pretty ugly. After a couple design iterations I came up with this: It's a pretty good friction fit, and the inner part of the plug keeps the connector in place in the shell. They fit really well in my bag: I made two versions to dress the cable for right or left exit. The plug is also keyed to the shell so it won't rotate. Whipped up a riser to get my receiver out of the bag so I can see the display. I also printed the camera mount attached to the RX. …
Last reply by Dave, -
- 6 followers
- 102 replies
- 89.2k views
So, I'm thinking of building a bag cart based on a hand truck. Pretty simple, just a hand truck with a shelf attached and a case of some kind on the bottom for spare cables, adapters and back up gear maybe. Most likely, I'd just use a decent sized plastic tool box attached with bungee cords. Also, a boom holder and cable and headphone hooks. I've been thinking about using a hand truck with a fiberglass/nylon frame, mainly because I don't have any drill bits for drilling through steel. Here's the hand truck I'm looking at... http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100095316/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hand+truck&storeId=10051#.UJ7Z_6…
Last reply by Karl K, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1.9k views
Dear Colleagues, with great interest, I read this discussion on how to replace the antennas of a Sennheiser EW100 G2; especially the option that might improve the diversity function by building a second Antenna into the receiver is of interest for me. Now I am thinking if there was also a possibility to find a place for the 2nd antenna on a EW500 G2 receiver- as it is very likely that the place You have on the EW100 receiver is taken by the 2nd plug of the EW500 G2. As I have no EW500 G2 on hand to check the possibilities I wanted to ask You, whether anybody knows how it looks inside the EW500 G2 receiver...?! …
Last reply by DER NULLSTRAHLER, -
- 6 replies
- 5.3k views
Like @INARI, I tried to use an Arduino as a keyboard emulator to control my MixPre 6- I want to build a remote that will start and stop the MP6 and my Blackmagic camera simultaneously. Sound Devices is doing something funky with their USB keyboard protocol and nothing I tried would make the MP6 recognize the Arduino; SD's response was that they couldn't give me any info on the USB spec as it was "engineering data." And that's when I got medieval… I found an old USB keyboard that worked with the MP6, then hacked it apart and traced the switch connections to find what contacts needed to close to get the proper keystrokes. I added a couple optoisolate…
Last reply by Mobilemike, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 965 views
Oh if it is kind of against the rules or something remove it, as for now im just a guy that made a charger for the moment so.... i am not selling them as a company. as of yet. (or maybe ever who knows) Here a small video about my charger. not so much specially made for this forum so ignore the explaining of why the use of np50's etc, i make videos often for things i like to make myself (loudspeaker related) so it is more for the people that watch my channel. but some of you might be interested to see how it operates... i dont know https://youtu.be/J60hAgsFz7w Greetings Joppe. .
Last reply by WrineX, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
- 3.7k views
Mixpre-10T's joystick controller often deviate. and it cannot be record and stop at appropriate timing. Other day,I found some arcade game button and lever sold at video game shop. https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=ja&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tops-game.jp%2Fproducts%2Flist.php%3Fcategory_id%3D115&edit-text=&act=url and I tried to build HID button with adafruit trinket. Working so far so good in Windows and Macintosh. Although it is recognized as a generic HID device in Computers. But did not work with MixPre-10T. Seems there is USB-Host compatibility problem in Trinket. http…
Last reply by INARI, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 1.8k views
Like many on the forum, I make most of my own cables. I recently found something that has made it a bit easier to solder some types of connectors. It is a bit pricey, but has saved some burnt/hot fingers. It is a rather nice block of silicon so it's not going to melt at solder temperatures. I have no vested interest in the product, just a satisfied customer. YMMV
Last reply by Philip Perkins, -
- 6 replies
- 3.5k views
So a friend of mine and me are making a portable set without any bag. so rigid mounted to be used on your belly or trowed on a cart First a wooden prototype since i dont like to spend allot of expensive materials on testing and shuffling around holes components and such. Thats good since i changed rather much Then the final material, the material is a composite from aluminum and HDPE foam, witch makes it rather light and still quit stiff., it has been cut on my CNC. In between the Cantar and the frame there is an aluminum bar that prevents the Cantar from faling if somehow the composite material would fail. the hooks from the harnas …
Last reply by WrineX, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Has anyone sourced a Line Socket (to go on a cable rather than a panel) that mates with the Lemo connector used on mics wired for pro-series Sennheiser, Zaxcom, or Lectro SSM transmitters? Even Lemo's online tech support seem confused by which model matches the keyways etc. If you've found one that works, can you please share the model number? I need to make some adapters for mics wired for Senn Lemo, to plug into Lectrosonics PDRs. I can't swap or re-wire the mics. I've seen the Kortwitch solid-body adapters that Gotham sells, they work but the overall length of the plug plus adapter is a problem sticking out the top of the pack, so I'd prefer to make adapters with an in…
Last reply by nickreich, -
- 18 replies
- 6.4k views
Hi, So I am a stage performer (Illusionist/Mentalist). The events I perform at vary so greatly with sound that I decided to take things into my own hands... hopefully. Here's a horrible mockup: My sound requirements are: 1. Headset Mic for me. 2. Handheld Mic for volunteers. 3. Music played from an iPad. Unfortunately, I often work at banquet halls where the client has hired a DJ who's system is very barebones (as most DJ systems are). It's not their fault. They usually don't have a need for a complicated system. Oftentimes, they will only have 1 input for me to use... and it's RCA 😵. I …
Last reply by RevelRob, -
- 2 followers
- 19 replies
- 3.9k views
I'm building a right angle DC cable that goes from my Audio Root distro to my Cedar DNS-2. The wall wart that shipped with the DNS-2 was built with 22AWG. In the wall wart graveyard, I found some 24AWG and some 18AWG, but no 22AWG. In a quick search of the site here, I found advice regarding 22-24 being fine..but my question is: Could I make this DC cable build a bit sturdier? I was wondering if it was okay to do the build with the 18AWG. Any advice for my build here? Thanks for any help, Rachel
Last reply by efksound, -
- 3 replies
- 3.4k views
Hi there Im looking for a website that'll give me step by step instructions with pictures on how to make low profile XLR to 3.5 mm cables. Please post any links if you know of them thanks.
Last reply by Dalton Patterson, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I built this rig out of necessity for jobs that require me to be harnessed up but also feed a video village multiple headsets. Thought this might be helpful to fellow do it yourselfer's. Allows the use of erx's and Comteks simultaneously eliminating the whine caused by 2.4 GHz transmission in close by comtek transmitters. Definitely gives extended range over standard Comtek whip antenna. Currently mounted on a standard microphone stand but also can be mounted on a C stand with another 5/8 adapter i built -Ken
Last reply by osa,
