Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
784 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 17 replies
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So I want to go from the two TA3 outputs on a SRb to the TA5 input on my Nomad (the "return" TA5 inputs). Any suggestions for what cable will fit in the TA connectors, especially because I need to make a Y cable and fit 2 cables in one of the TA ends. Thinking what is thin enough to fit in that kind of setup, but also rugged enough for my bag rig. Ideally I would love some way to make an "h" cable so I have a single line going from the Nomad to the SRb, then a little leg to the other TA3, but I don't see that working with the size of the TA connectors.
Last reply by soundslikejustin, -
- 2 followers
- 17 replies
- 2.6k views
A couple weeks ago I was curious about DIY bag dividers that I've seen floating around and wanted to attempt something similar. I am in the process of gathering several wireless units and needed to find a way to carry them elegantly in the bag before pulling that trigger. At the same time, I did not want to alter the original bag. I came up with a few designs starting with ABS and thermo-forming, but that caused problems. The glue and welds didn't hold up very well, nor did cement. Also the ABS was just too slick and would slide out anytime I needed to remove a wireless unit. I took a closer look at the bag and this is what I've come up with: Before: After: …
Last reply by AndyB, -
- 17 replies
- 3.7k views
Here’s an idea I’ve had for a while. Hot swappable dual battery holder with 5 12V DC outputs. Isolation for the Lithiums, filtering on each output and fused up to 6A. Before this I was using a Battery bud with an NP-1 Cup. It worked fine, but not ideal. I have a new board for this mod that makes one of the outputs switchable between 5, 9 and 12V DC. It took a while to put it all together but well worth it. Here are some photos that show a bit of the process.
Last reply by jacefivesound, -
- 1 follower
- 17 replies
- 2.7k views
I am fixing an old 12 channel mixer and looking for new knobs. They are for 1/4" d shaft potentiometers, but the ones I have found don't have the indicator position I need for the way the potentiometer is installed. I have also considered ones that have a set screw that would work with the d shaft, but they also have the screw oposite the indicator, and I would need it to be on the side or 90 degrees from the indicator. Any ideas as to where or how to search for these I would appreciate, Thanks, Rodrigo
Last reply by new mexico, -
- 2 followers
- 17 replies
- 10.1k views
I know there is no way this is an original idea, but working with all these side input cameras, i was thinking about right angle XLR adapters as an option, vs making complete custom cables and pigtails in all the various configurations i have on hand. Has anyone come across anything like this or ventured to fabricate, similar to the DIY XLR connector thread? i am envisioning a hybrid combo of neutrik right angle male XLR connectors combined with standard straight female connectors. trying to keep them a solid piece, as small and low profile as possible but also maintaining the ability to change angle in the field for different XLR input positions. Has anyone come acro…
Last reply by Eric Toline, -
- 3 followers
- 17 replies
- 6.6k views
So... I started my transition into the Axient Digital line earlier last year. For months I had been sitting on a number of transmitters, in the hopes of a receiver solution that would suit the layout of my cart. I live and work in New York, and thus I've always valued having as mobile, and lightweight a cart as I can get away with, and the full-sized Shure rack receivers just weren't going to work with my setup. Further considerations of mine were: The hope for DANTE integration, and a relatively high channel density (higher than Shure's AD4Q, at least). When the ADX5D was announced, I figured all of my problems would be solved by pairing these with the…
Last reply by Patrick Farrell, -
- 17 replies
- 3.9k views
I know a lot of you guys are using the Fat Max as a follow cart, but have any of you ever modded yours to make it a little sturdier? Worked with a mixer whose handles finally got too bent to extend/close and don't want to go through that myself. Not sure if this is even possible without totally destroying it or whatever, but figured I'd ask!
Last reply by Mirror, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 13.4k views
Hi! I want to record some foley footsteps in different surfaces, I know that footsteps in sand, grass and stones (and others) use to be simulated with kinda trays like this and i know that the best way to have a good sound for footsteps in thick and solid surfaces like cement or concrete, tiles, marble etc... is to have it built in the very ground like this unfortunately I can´t have it... so I want to make a few DIY transportable surfaces (around 1m square) and I would like to know how to avoid unwanted resonances in surfaces like concrete or tiles. I appreciate any advice and every experience about how to record foley footsteps properly…
Last reply by myke2241, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
- 3.3k views
Hello fellow DIYers! I've recently been working a lot with a very thin and flexible shielded 2 core cable. As with many cables of this diameter the flexibility is achieved/aided with strands of nylon(? seeking correction on this). I'm looking to share info regarding how best to work with this type of cable stock. Methods of mine have included: - separating the copper and nylon (tedious & frustrating!), twisting the copper and then melting the nylon strands quickly with a lighter or cut with a sharp pair of pliers. The twisted copper is then filed lightly if needed to remove any black marks and then cleaned with solvent. The copper is then tinned. - if the …
Last reply by Eric Toline, -
- 16 replies
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Has anyone had any luck putting a rubber dust boot on their Sanken COS-11 that is already wired for TA5? I knew it'd be a tight fit, but damn, it's close to impossible. I've used heat to try to make it more pliable, but it's just not enough. Suggestions (other than re-wiring the TA5 connector)?
Last reply by pverrando, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 2.8k views
-35 dB ATTENUATION CABLE This project came directly from Jay Rose’s book Producing Great Sound for Film and Video, 3rd edition. On pages 179 to 181 Jay explains what resistors to use and diagrams three different circuits. I chose to make the “balanced output to balanced input” as a cable instead of building it into a XLRm to XLRf barrel. This attenuating circuit uses (4) – 301 Ohms 1/4 watt 1% film resistor and (1) – 15 Ohm 1/4 watt 1% film resistor. The challenge for me was figuring out how to get all 5 resistors soldered in the correct circuit design and still fit into a xlr connector. I have included 5 photographs that I made as I progressed, they uploaded out of…
Last reply by mark kirchner, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
- 2.7k views
Just wondering the Order of attack with such a thin wire?, shrink wrap down to thicken it up? What about where the cable exits the lemo connector, I see the Trew audio cables etc when they do Lemo's it has that black "BOOT" I'm guessing that is a special type of shrink wrap?, trying to get some to add strain relief like they do... Any idea where to get this? Anyone have a countryman B6 wired for Lectro and willing to post a picture of how it's strain relieved / shrink wrapped (booted) ?? Thanks heaps for any help
Last reply by hobbiesodd, -
- 6 followers
- 16 replies
- 9.7k views
Putting together a DIY battery eliminator for a G2 TX I use in the bag for IFB. Core of it is a Swadj3 regulator, it can bring down up to 35v to the required 3v. The G2 uses les than a watt, and this device can give you up to 25 watt max, so you can use one of these things to power multiple sennheiser RX/TX, thus ruling out buying a couple of official Sennheiser eliminators ($69). The thingy goes for about $25. It's small enough to fit in the battery compartment of the G3/G2 by the way.
Last reply by sisal, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
- 5.2k views
I want to build a TRS TRS cable to wire a Tascam dr100 line out to a canon 5d MK III mic in. can anyone suggest me a detailed scheme that helps?
Last reply by beatsbooster, -
- 16 replies
- 5.9k views
My K-Tek boom 102 is in need of basic maintenance. Any advice from DIYers. Dos and Don'ts. How to remove and clean the collars. I'm having to tighten the collars more than usuall. I know I can send it off to get done, I prefer spending the money on needed gear.
Last reply by ivancosta, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 4.2k views
What's the experience with these? Just built a Lemo-to-Lemo for a friend and he gasp at the final price. If the Chinese (eBay) 5-pins work okay, it may be worth a look-see. D.
Last reply by Michael Illouz, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 5.1k views
Hi all, I'm currently in the process of building a manual switch box so that I can switch between 2 sources into 1 input on my 552. The two sources are a fig8 mic and a line level out radio receiver. I'd switch to the fig8 mic when recording ambiences and switch back to the radio receiver at all other times. I did have a thought of making the switch box a bit more elegant by having it automatically switch when phantom power was applied. I would only need phantom power for the mic so I could maybe set up a relay energise via phantom power and switch contacts over to the mic. It would save having to dig into my bag and also avoid accidentally knocking the switch …
Last reply by Matt Morris, -
- 16 replies
- 4.6k views
Hi all, I'v searched the forum the last few days for ideas for a boom box/caddy/stand... and this is the result. Any suggestions for improvement are welcome.
Last reply by Malcolm Davies Amps CAS, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 2.3k views
Hello, Can anyone suggest a circuit for a passive limiter, using diodes and resistors. I would like to know if it is possible to suppress audio signal peaks higher than +18dbu. (6.16v?). I am using a mic preamp, with line level out, into a recorder and constantly get digital distortion when there are fast transients like hand claps or even laughter. The recorder has a digital limiter but it does not help. There is a product available in the form of an xlr barrel, but I would like to know if it is a circuit I can put in a small box with ta3f in and out, or something I can add to the preamp out, internally. Thanks, Rodrigo
Last reply by rosa, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 4.2k views
I've always been meaning to do this... http://dfwsoundman.blogspot.com/2012/10/sanken-cos-11-lavalier-dissection.html
Last reply by Korosec, -
- 15 replies
- 3k views
I would like to add a volume control on my boom box. 100ohm should do? I'd also like to build a small box before my comteks to easily line up the level on the fly from a line level out. Thinking 600 ohm dual gang for the balanced output. Thoughts? Any suggestion on a source for parts? Digikey takes forever to deliver. Thanks! James
Last reply by JamesB, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.1k views
I programmed a microcontroller to listen the the switch that was previously going to the serial port on nomad, now taken up by RX-12. It emulates the keyboard commands for roll and stop and works like business as usual using the USB port.
Last reply by Todd Weaver, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
- 6.3k views
Since I am currently in cable-making readiness mode(have 200' of CA3PS26 coming from Trew and Neutricons from Markertek for my DIY breakaway cable system), I am also thinking about building a breakout for the DB-15 AES connector on my Nomad. I am looking at different cable options, this one looks quite good: http://www.gotham.ch...7_details&id=59 Has anyone yet built one of these? Managing the shields in the DB-15 looks like it will be the most "fun" part of the job... and the 15mm diameter of the cable presents a thought as to the shell of the DB-15.
Last reply by studiomprd, -
- 15 replies
- 1.6k views
I'm sure I'm missing something simple here, but stumped is stumped. I've got this SB-2a I'd like to keep in the bag to feed my Tascam HD-P2. I'd hoped to plug a Comtek TX in as well, to send timecode to the TS-1 slate I took the generator off of in the first place. I've tried a couple mono 1/8'' Y cables but code will only go through one branch (either branch) of the Y cable at a time. Plug the cables into an MP3 player or a Comtek RX, and I get sound out of two sets of headphones. Would a splitter like the one pictured work? I'm guessing timecode is so smart it knows how to twist my arm to buy an additional SB-3. Scott
Last reply by John Blankenship, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 3.1k views
Just wanted to share my new cart I constructed for my current show, and accompanying follow cart. I posted a few weeks back about converting a welding cart into a follow cart. I decided to try it since the price was right and I was pressed for time to get a new follow cart before the show started. It's working pretty well so far! I replaced the stock casters with larger 14" pneumatic tires in the rear and pneumatic casters in the front. I've got the drawers all divided up, two additional Chinhda hooks on the sides, and two boom holders on the back (room for a third when I have time to put it on). All my wires live in the bag that's on top of the follow cart so we can …
Last reply by osa,