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Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
784 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 9.2k views
I'm wiring a 5 pin XLR female to a 3.5 mini TRS female so that I can have stereo (left / right) in the female TRS for a headphone feed. I wired the 5 pin as: Pin 1to sleeve of TRS Pin 2 to tip of TRS Pin 4 to ring of TRS Pin 3 and 5 I tied both into the ground of pin 1 When I tried this I was getting signal to the headphones but there was a lot of noise. What am I doing wrong?
Last reply by Erick, -
- 4 followers
- 8 replies
- 9k views
Hello All, If this has been addressed somewhere else please let me know, I don't want to be redundant. I'm starting the process of building a custom follow cart. I would like to build the cart out of T slot 8020, with rack mounted drawers, 2 'smart wheels' and 2 dumb wheels, like a magliner. The advise I'm looking for is the best way to attach wheels and rack rail to T slotted aluminum. I'm looking to get the same wheels as my magliner, basically what I've attached below. Has anyone attached these to T slot 8020? Looking for success stories. Non Smart Wheels: http://www.filmtools.com/8ripnca.html 'smart' wheels: http://www.filmtools.com/8swpnca.html I know I can get…
Last reply by jacefivesound, -
- 1 follower
- 26 replies
- 8.9k views
Hello everyone. I've been working on a reality show on a construction site last summer as well as this one, and wanted to demonstrate how I've solved fast-mic'ing folks and getting a mic on people wearing crazy amounts of safety gear and entering locations inaccessible to our crew. Simply put, it's a hard hat mount. I'm sure many of you have used this type of mount throughout your careers, but for those who haven't here is a very easy way of doing it (photos below). There are a couple of things I like about the mount, but in particular it does three very excellent things: It allows me to mic people almost instantly. Once the Tx is turned on I just hand the subject t…
Last reply by Rick Albright, -
- 5 followers
- 24 replies
- 8.7k views
So here we go... DC solution for my small audio bag, powering SD 744T and Audio Development AD071. Sony NP F and RRC 2054 compared: Charger: Battery cable, you got 2x DC (red and black wires) and 3 wires for the smart data (you dont need to use them if you dont want to add a control display). I ordered two as they are cheap for experimentation. For one of the battery cables i made a little "breakbox", one black and one red wire connected direct to hirose 4pin, one black and red wire connected to a variable DC/DC voltage regulator - the one i used is a lot oversized, i took what i had laying round here (this one was…
Last reply by Philip Perkins, -
- 1 follower
- 35 replies
- 8.6k views
The build begins!! Wish me luck... (null)
Last reply by Patrick Wilcox, -
Cantar Mini bag 1 2
by drpro- 4 followers
- 43 replies
- 8.5k views
For the past few months I have been using my Cantar Mini. I work bag and bag cart, so in my search for a Cantar Mini bag I found only three sources and none of them really did what I needed done in a bag. So I built two versions, the second is shown below in the photos. The first version shall never be seen in public. All of the metal work and sewing I did, so please don't judge me!! The Mini is not like any other recorder/mixer shape. So my design incorporates a frame much like the Aaton cheese plate offering. I wanted something fairly compact and have some features that I don't believe any other bag has. By making it triangul…
Last reply by drpro, -
- 10 replies
- 8.5k views
A couple of quick shots of a Double M/S that I'm playing around with while I have a bit of down-time. Due to the tiny size of the MKH8000 series (and the fact that Sennheiser hasn't yet made a figure-8 model in the line ) I'm using the MKH 30. Seeing as it's the biggest mic, it also serves as the mounting for the other mics. Everything fits inside a Rode Blimp (that I don't really use anymore - i bought a new Rycote for my main boom mic) and the back-to back clips are the ones Rode provide with the Blimp - I've got the standard clip back to back with a MKH clip for the front mic (MKH 8050), and a 30mm clip (shimmed with a layer of tape) to go just on the front of th…
Last reply by Aaron Macri, -
- 41 replies
- 8.4k views
For people with custom carts and BMX tires (12 or 20inch), what are you using for brakes? Before I make a bracket to mount an actual BMX/MTB brake, is there anything else you guys have been using? My cart right now is a "PSC-style" inspired cart made from 80/20 T-slot extrusions. I have some sweet 80's BMX 20" mag wheels on it. I had to remove the front wheel brakes when a nut fell off during a film. They didn't work so well anyway. This is an old setup, but the cart/wheel configuration is about the same:
Last reply by Jim Tanenbaum, CAS, -
- 15 replies
- 8.4k views
I use Countryman B6 and Sanken cos-11 Lavs. I have several that have glue left from mole skin. What is the best product to use to get it off without harming the mics. Thanks
Last reply by Constantin, -
- 32 replies
- 8.3k views
This is a photo diary of the birth of my new sound cart. It is based on wooden 8U 19" cases (bought from Thomann) and will have the option of adding more modules. It breaks into single modules for transport in a car. The base will, apart from having wheels, hold things like comtek RX, small playback speakers, spare headphones, and similar stuff you typically need handy only during set-up. It will also contain small mic stands, LPDAs, and a spare Rycote basket. The main module will hold two drawers with TX, lavs, lav accessories, mics, suspensions, TX batteries and so on, and have 4 units of open space to house RX racks, script, comtek TX, headphones, and similar stu…
Last reply by pkautzsch, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 8.3k views
I'm trying to pull apart a 4 pin Hirose plug but I've not got very far with it. Just doesn't seem to be anything obvious past the screw-on crimping collar. Is there some trick with the spring loaded outer collar or is there another part I need to unscrew?
Last reply by Soundbite, -
- 21 replies
- 8.2k views
I've got a shoot coming up where I need to hook my LMa up to the truck for talent IFB. I'm betting the truck can send me a dry line. However, they have not yet found a truck, so I can't talk to them to confirm. I'm hoping someone can help me with a schematic to make a wet/dry XLR adapter cable. Thanks!
Last reply by Tim Paul, -
- 18 replies
- 8.2k views
So, I recently acquired a Nagra III, and was wondering if anyone had access to a service manual (not operators manual). I suspect a re-cap is in order, but I could have larger problems as well. Everything runs fine in rewind, but in PB and Rec, the motor winds itself down after exactly 10 seconds. Beyond that... Biasing, modulometer calibration, yada yada yada Thanks in advance! Wyatt
Last reply by PiO, -
- 1 follower
- 13 replies
- 8k views
Hi! Im planning to solder a 4 pin Hirose connector to the negative and positive wires of this battery holder, planning to make this a "just in case" spare battery if i run out of NP1 during a shoot. Id like to know if, coz i dont have a 4 pin hirose connector yet, which one will be the positive side of that and which one will be the negative in the hirose? Or will it just any side? Attached to this post is the battery holder that im saying. Thank you so much.
Last reply by Wandering Ear, -
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
- 7.9k views
Ikea made a bluetooth speaker for which you can buy a 14.4V, 37Wh battery, costing about $20. I made a 3d-printed holder for it so it can be used to power a sound bag and other equipment. These packs can be charged in the speaker (the smaller model) itself or with smart chargers like the Imax B6. I've mentioned these batteries in Allen Rowand's DIY BDS topic, and being inspired by his contributions to the location sound DIY community I wanted to add to it as well. Speaker https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/eneby-bluetooth-speaker-white-40401393/ Battery https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/eneby-battery-pack-20414264/ Th…
Last reply by Jacob Gustavsson, -
- 4 followers
- 29 replies
- 7.9k views
I've built a new mini cart for omb / eng jobs when working out of a bag. So far only the frame is complete, I'm still waiting on some parts, accessories, etc, but it made it's debut on set today for a Comcast commercial, and it was the perfect combination of workability, size, and mobility. I will have to redo the handles, they aren't quite tall enough so I kick the wheels at times, and the boom holders, antennas, working shelf, as well as foam cutout drawers for inside the pelican, are all in the works, but are not ready / have not arrived yet. I'll post more photos next week when the next shipment arrives.
Last reply by jordanhoodtaylor, -
- 7 replies
- 7.9k views
Just wanted to share my Thunderbolt CF reader that I built. It took some trial and error, but I found a good working solution that really speeds things up at the end of the day. Links and pics through the link. http://texassoundguy.blogspot.com/2013/04/creating-thunderbolt-compact-flash-card.html
Last reply by Tyler Faison, -
- 32 replies
- 7.8k views
There have been a couple of threads about building cart power solutions, but I couldn't find much in previous threads about which SLA batteries people had good or bad experiences with. I know a couple of folks like the 12v 33ah MK cells, and I know that Powersonic 35AH are an old favorite, but has anyone had the opportunity to do side by side tests of different brands? Or does anyone just have vaguely uninformed guesses they'd like to share? FWIW, I'm planning to build a couple to use with my PSC Powerstar on my new cart, so any thoughts are welcome. Thanks everyone, A.
Last reply by Jeff Wexler, -
- 1 follower
- 46 replies
- 7.7k views
I'm looking at re-doing my current power system for my cart. I've added too many new toys and i've surpassed the limit of my current setup. I know there are some ready made solutions out there made by trusted brands like PSC or Remote Audio, but this is the do it yourself forum, so I'm going to give it a try. I'm wondering, if those who make there own cart power supplies could recommend a good reliable quiet DC power supply. Medical grade seems to be the buzz word for this kind of thing, although i'm not exactly sure what that means. Hopefully something that can output 150 watts or more. My current system uses a battery charger floating over a SLA. It's worked w…
Last reply by Bill Ruck, -
- 1 follower
- 33 replies
- 7.7k views
as i am looking for a bag based multicoupler for 4 ucr's , i am playing with the idea of disassembling a UMCWB and fitting the guts of this device in a sturdy custom housing with a footprint as small as possible. before i get out saw and driller, i wanted to ask around if someone of you planned or even successfully finished such a modification. greetings
Last reply by Boomboom, -
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
- 7.4k views
Can anyone recommend a non crimp solderable BNC connector.
Last reply by alidav, -
- 2 followers
- 26 replies
- 7.3k views
I am thinking about building my own battery eliminator for my Sennheiser G3's. Of course there is always the option of buying their DC-2, but at $65 (without a connector) I am sure I could build one for about a third of the price. So I would like to get all of your thoughts on my design and components. Basic design is put one of theses 3.3v 1A voltage regulators: (specs here: http://www.dimension...oducts/de-sw033) inside two of these AA adapter shells ( somehow glued together and the inside sides notched out to fit the regulator) Attach my wires, terminate with my connector and call it a day? Can it be that simple? About $20 including ship…
Last reply by Geoff Tirrell, -
- 4 followers
- 34 replies
- 7.2k views
One unit all gear/wiring power. I am trying to 3d print one piece wireless holder that attaches to the Nomad or Maxx. Ideally the NP1 Cup will be a part of the skeleton. PLEASE ZAXCOM MAKE ONE UNIT NOMAD/RX12. NO WIRES!!!!!!!! or design qrx200 with sma connectors on the bottom instead of the top.... __________________________________________________________________________ I need to make custom size power and RF cables to make it cleaner Space in the middle for NP1 NP1 cup permanently on the bottom. Again ideally the NP1 Cup will be a part of the wireless skeleton. Easy access to wiring which is not a big deal when I can take the o…
Last reply by mjwittmeyer, -
- 6 replies
- 7.2k views
Needed a mic transmitter belt for an actress. Bought some heavy elastan/polyester fabric, large velcro and started the sewing machine. Custom fit!
Last reply by David Chakman, -
- 5 followers
- 29 replies
- 7k views
Can anyone suggest an off-the-shelf right angle (adjustable) TA3F field-serviceable connector that doesn't require an endoscope and a mechanical engineering degree to deploy? Have tried two versions from Usual Suspects, very expensive per each, hated them, to big too fragile too fussy. This is for a bespoke setup so I need to solder them myself (re a Kortwich commission). Is the only solution to hack up straight connectors and epoxy them up? I'd like something that I could change the cable-exit angle on in the future, as well as repair if they get damaged. thx
Last reply by dactylus,
