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Linne Beck

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • About
    Sound Recordist for Commercial Productions
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. 633, 4 channels of Zaxcom wireless (fully color coded from transmitter to receivers to cables to 633), K-Tek Stingray Small, Audioroot, Sennheiser SK100 for IFB and camera guide sends, Ultrasync ONE for timecode transmission
  2. My Sound Cart for SD 633 kit with four channels of Zaxcom wireless
  3. Well, it's really simple: When I started I bought a 633 because I rented it a couple of times before and really liked the workflow of that machine. I had two Sennheiser EW100 wireless microphones, and later upgraded them to Zaxcom. Still now I wouldn't get a Maxx because of reasons, and I'd rather save money now to maybe buy a DEVA 24 than to upgrade to a Nomad 12 now since 633 fills 85% of my needs at this moment. And you can have a great Zaxcom/Zaxnet workflow with the QRX235/QIFB. The only downside is that I need to use an Analogue signal between QRX's and 633. If my jobs get bigger i'll decide if I go the DEVA 24 route(when they have integrated Zaxnet transmitter and Dante input) or maybe a next version of Sound Devices (if they decide to not go prosumer again)
  4. Latest iteration of my 633/Zax bag. - Sound Devices 633 - Zaxcom QRX200 - Zaxcom QRX235 with QIFB board, external antenna - Zaxcom Micplexer2 - AudioRoot vmDBOX-HRS - Swit V-lock battery - K-tek Stingray Small bag - Sennheiser SK100 IFB/cam ref tx - RF Explorer - Sennheiser HD-25 - A bunch of cables. about 19
  5. Not the precise answer you are looking for, but in my workflow I don't feel a difference in run time with my ZMT3 with Fuji NP-50 versus TRXLA with 2x Eneloop Pro AA. This is because they both run from call to lunch with some left, then I change all the batteries anyway and they run from lunch to wrap. Maybe others can give you precise numbers but in the end it all has to do with things like how much time are you putting them in low2 mode etc. 50 mW
  6. Maybe get a Schoeps CCM41? Love the size of mine. Also amazing in Mid Side configuration with a CCM8. It would be a extra feature over a second CMC6 MK41 if you decide to go the Schoeps route.
  7. Schoeps CCM41 (and CCM8 for stereo) with Cinela Windscreen / Shockmount
  8. If you decide for external cable: Just cut a cable to the right length then you don't have any problems with excessive cable. My way is for a 4 meter boompole something like a 5.25 meter cable (maybe 5 or 5,5m depends on your length i guess) and if you go shorter just wrap some cable to your bag with velcro
  9. I picked up my Zaxcom QRX200, 2x TRXLA2 and the AudioRoot vmDBOX today. I feel like i finally have a serious rig now. (i had/have 2x Sennheiser EW100's). Very happy with this new setup, although because i dont have zaxnet i have to manually jam the tx's everytime i power them up. Other items: Cinela Pianissimo, OSIX 2, MINIX CCM, Schoeps CMC6MK41, CCM41, Panamic pole, PSC travelpole, 2x Sennheiser EK300 for director, K-tek Harness, Tentaclesync. I power everything with a V-lock accu in the K-tek bag.
  10. did you check what all of your limiter, high boost, volume boost settings are on the 300? And if you have the right line input cable for the sk TX?
  11. @rodpaul This is a interesting read about the different options (Mix Assist and Dan Dugan): https://soundandpicture.com/2016/09/a-perfect-mix-sound-devices-and-dan-dugan/ quoting Jon Tatooles from SD: "It (MixAssist) may be better suited for tougher applications where you need it to be a little more aggressive. The MixAssist algorithm attenuates microphones in a different way than the Dugan algorithm. Whereas Dan’s algorithm is super smooth, MixAssist may have more noticeable transitions. " , but because of this more aggressive way of attenuating inputs, the noise floor is also lower in certain situations
  12. You have x3 and x4 for that on jack 3,5mm
  13. Hi, thanks. The receipt says translated to English 'Insert cap circular', Not really specific. I picked it up at a local hardware store for 30 eurocent each. I only had to cut off some of the plastic screw-thread and it fit well. Fixed but not too tight so its removable with fingers. Btw - your's matches nice with the battery cap of the 633
  14. First post - Many thanks for all the ideas here on this forum. I still have to solder this one but i already like how this looks and feels
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