MartinTheMixer

I am using the wording from the Ambient video, so it is whatever their definition is of "stamp". I adopt their meaning of the word "stamp". Thank you. That is a wonderful analogy, but Lisa and Steve are not digital. I just got off the phone with Red. All someone has to do is come up with a program inside the camera, that says, we just shot 20,000 frames, the start tc was x, we divide the number of frames by the fps, Bam. There is perfect timecode stamps. You might still have a sync to audio problem, because audio is not locked to frames, because there are no frames, but you would have perfect tc inside the camera.

Hello, The second video in that series is the one that discusses this issue. The first one is a basic tutorial on tc. In that second video, ambient states, that in my given scenario, frame 3 IS stamped. I still think that's the damndest thing that a digital device, one that knows how many frames it just shot, can't properly mark a correct ending tc. Where's Howy? I mean, the camera knows the frame rate. The camera knows how many frames it just shot. How hard can this be?

Hello all, my question is this. Can a digital tc camera, let's pick Red Dragon, or Weapon, tc drift after the record button has been pushed and before the stop button is pushed? So if you are on 25fps, for easier math, then frame 1 gets stamped 0, is there any way for frame 3 to get stamped something other than 74? And yes, I have searched this. If you know of a link that answers this question, please post it. Thank you. If you need to increase the roll time to an hour for discussion purposes, that's fine.

Glen, The way I test is to see what the wattage draw is from my bag, then, test the battery with that wattage pull and see what the readings are when the battery reaches the level considered to be the ending voltage level. Then I can see what the a/hr capacity is. This test is slightly flawed, because, If you test with 3 dual receivers pulling current, then battery life is shorter than only one receiver pulling power, of course.

You really don't know how many watt hours of capacity until you test them.

Constantin, I see what your saying. You were taking my statement as ultra-literal. Yes, when I turn on my flashlight, there is a delay for that light to get across my living room. But what we are talking about is a delay that is detectable. In other words, my Zaxcom erx being fed timecode from IFB 200, 100, or Nomad for instance. Since the time code is updated via wireless, if you do the math, the "drift", is about. .02 frames of drift in a 10 minute take. 12 hours later, with a 10 minute take, the "drift" is still .02 frames for a 10 minute take. With that being said, I've never seen anyone on here talk about what we're "drifting" against. If your mixer loses 3 frames in 12 hours in a linear fashion, and your camera loses 3 frames in 12 hours in a linear fashion, they are perfectly in sync, with each other. I have to say "hmmm" whenever I see someone say something like "I synced up my mixer and my ___ sync device, and 2 days later they were only 1/10 of a frame off". Which device was "off"? If the manufacturer of your mixer says 2ppm in 12 hours of drift and the manufacturer of your ______ sync device says .3ppm, and they are only 1/10 of a frame off 2 days later, then something is not performing properly, one of them is obviously drifting much different than spec.

It only takes one. And as far as having problems with the camera dept., there are bad people on the planet. Some of those people wind up in the camera dept. There are bad plumbers, bad lawyers, bad cops, bad hamburger cooks and bad doctors. The camera dept. Is not immune from bad people. I just went and looked on this site. There is one post that talks about problems getting a Red Scarlett to sink. I am sure if I keep looking on this site, I will find multiple such posts. So, I am not unique here.

Hello, that was a short response, so I'm not sure maybe exactly what you meant, but, changing batteries makes for better timecode how? Hello Boom, I wasn't blaming you for a short answer, I just didn't have enough data. Well, my response is, we, the users of the brand that I use, Don't have any drift. I can put the brand here, but, I will probably be burned in effigy for doing so. Please go check out my Denecke slate post in equipment that I put up a few minutes ago, and let me know what you think. Thank you.

Hello all, Have a look at my mod for the Denecke TS-C slate. This gives the slate the ability to take 4 pin Lemo. This will prevent the camera dept. From taking the position that their menu selection for time code is just fine, "It must be your mixer,cable, etc." . Let me know what you think. If anyone likes this, I can modify your slate. I really want thoughts here, not yes men. Where is Senator Mike?

Hello, that was a short response, so I'm not sure maybe exactly what you meant, but, changing batteries makes for better timecode how?

Hello again, On the receivers on camera, that's where I would use lipo, and no battery swap at lunch. And the erx's, I think I would still power them off the same battery for the receiver. And no changing for lunch on that either. But I do see what your saying. .

Hello, I just don't know if it's worth the risk. And of course we still don't know if they're going to give false High battery level indications.

Johnny, it's "mwa", which as far as I know, is nothing. See original post.

Brent, I have to know. What the heck are using about 48 AA'S for? Also, does anyone want to guess what that description means on the original post? The "mwa" rating?

Hello, I just looked back at the original post. The description states a "mwa" rating. What the heck is that? It also has a mah rating which isn't even 10% better than what we have now.

Hello, let's say they weigh half as much, as a AA Nimh, then that is 1/2 -ounce each. If your mixer takes 6 batteries, that's only a 3 ounce savings. If your transmitter takes 2 batteries, that's only 1 ounce difference. How important can that be?

Hello, Yes to everything Larry just said. Now that Larry and I agree on all that, is there someone, somewhere, that can give just one reason to use these? Anything, like, "well, the Istanbulians believe Nimh chemistry is the devil, and I have a job there next week.". I will entertain any reasoning. Any.

Hello, whether they are regulated or not, I don't know how they will get around the following. Batteries have different internal resistance as they are manufactured. So, if your device has 6 batteries, that would equal 6 different internal resistance figures. I don't think anyone has told me yet, what it is we are gaining by risking putting these little mini flamethrowers in our equipment. Does anyone know?

Hello, Are you referring to measuring the stop and start voltage of the battery? Or are you referring to the amp hour capacity? If these batteries are lipo's, I hope we know the fully charged voltage. If they are standard voltage lipo, meaning fully charged equals 4.3 volts and fully discharged equals 3.1 volts, that would seem to me these batteries are 1 cell, regulated to 1.5, designed to cut off power from the battery prior to damaging the cell. In most of the devices that we use, the device, let's say a transmitter, cuts ITSELF off, prior to damaging the cell, because it simply won't run on the reduced voltage. I am basing this 1.5 voltage of these cells, from an earlier post here on this site. And someone may have mentioned this, but if the battery stays at 1.5v until it is discharged, then our cute little battery indicators are going to always show the battery in our transmitter is fully charged until it fails to transmit. The one thing to be happy about here is that the transmitters will pull less current to run. This may equal less heat from the transmitter. I think the bigger issue here is, why use these? What are we gaining? I am guessing I have longer experience with lipo batteries than 95 percent of the members of this site. Lipo's are an odd choice for a AA battery.

Constantin, What we were talking about had to do with the voltage of the battery, not what it was regulated to. I am guessing you are mentioning 2 batteries in a device because I had stated that I have a device that uses two 9 volt batteries?

Hello, ok. That I think, is misleading to the novice. There is much usable voltage above 3.7 and I think people (potential users of lipo Batts on this website) could get a misunderstanding of the potential of these batteries.

John, are you using the word nominal in its classic definition of "under actual value"? If so, ok, I guess I agree with that. But when you pull it off the charger, it is higher than that. What I mean is that you can use a lot of charge out of a cell before it is down to 3.7 volts. Also, most applications, don't use multiple 9 volt cells in series, so there are rarely any issues there to deal with Balance of cells. I have a device that uses two 9 volts on parallel, not sure why the manufacturer did that, but they did.

Hello, I would be of the opinion that each battery would have different internal resistance. Therefore, if you are using 2, or more, as batteries wired in series, that they would discharge to the lowest acceptable level, at different rates or times. The easiest way to test this theory would be to fully charged 2 cells, put them in a transmitter until trans shuts off, then check the end voltage to see how far apart they are. You would want to check start voltage too, so you can tell you're starting at the same start voltage. If you check that, and the voltages are different, I think you have your answer to the issue of internal resistance, or maybe you have a bad charger.

AO, What transmitter did you use them in? I am a little curious how the multiple aa's will be balanced with each other. With one 9 volt, you have no differences in internal resistance, because you just have 1 battery. It just sounds like an odd setup.

Hmm, lithium polymer. Better not have a short in that transmitter, or things will get really exciting for whomever is wearing it at the time.