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Everything posted by John Moore
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Duracell AA alkaline battery sale at Home Depot
John Moore replied to Eric Toline's topic in Current
The good thing about "plonking" people whose replies are either inflammatory or inane is that you can still click on the "Show me the post" link if you want to take the chance that the post is germane/helpful. -
Eric- thanks... My first email bounced, so I was hoping I could find the right one! John
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Jan & Oleg: Thanks for the info... I've send emails, and will follow up with phone calls on Monday. John
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Duracell AA alkaline battery sale at Home Depot
John Moore replied to Eric Toline's topic in Current
All you have to do is go to your "Profile" and then select "Modify Profile" -> "Buddies/Ignore List" -> "Edit Ignore List" and add the username(s) of the person(s) whose posts you'd rather not have to wade through & Pests Are Gone! -
Not sure about the FR-2LE, since mine is the older FR-2, but I do have to admit that Fostex support seems to have drifted off the face of the planet... You can't even send an email via the Fostex international site any longer. Ah well- such is life!
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You mean-- someone else, besides my wife, can wither my soul with a look?
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Two things working for them: 1) Boom op wearing headphones 2) Camera on a tripod More effort than some of the shoots I've seen!
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I'm not sure I'd be so calm with my back to a grizzly... Talk about cajones!
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I picked up one of the Lilliput 8" monitors to use with my Mac Mini... Model 869GL-80NP- 12v, Composite, VGA, DVI & HDMI input with a couple of adapter cables for under $200: http://www.coollcd.com/lilliput-869gl80npc-8-inch-hdmi-tft-lcd-vga-monitor-no-touchscreen-dvi_p683.html.
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Would something like this work? http://jwsound.net/SMF/index.php?topic=7418.msg60936#msg60936
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Jeff: Thanks... I'm considering upgrading to the newer Mini with this hack, but I'm trying to figure out how to do the hack neatly- in case the unit has to go back for warranty work & needs to be returned to factory specs.
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A couple of sites are showing the use of the Brite View Air SyncHD as a way to broadcast HD signals up to 100+ feet: http://nofilmschool.com/2010/11/air-synchd-wireless-hi-def-video-village/ http://www.cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=22803 Over at reduser.net they started talking about the ASUS wicast as a solution, but quickly turned their attention to the Brite View: http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51483 One of the posts to take note of was from the cinema5d site: "Hello Users of Cinema 5D! This is NOT an OFFICIAL Brite-View press release, however... There is a camera specialized unit in development with: Camera Mounting Ability Battery Power ability Decent Long Range transmission (proper distance for video village) HDMI Passthrough for use with cameras where the onboard LCD turns off when connected to HDMI (canon) This is all that can be said until Brite-View is ready for an official press release, but Brite-View is listening to the camera community."
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Jim- that looks good... The 18.5v/4.3a/80w output settings should work for the Mini. It looks like this could be used as a DC-DC converter from a separate power source, to keep the noise out of the rest of the equipment.
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MOTU shipped me a replacement Traveler & I should have it early next week... Their turnaround time was rather amazing: they received my Traveler yesterday morning & shipped a refurb yesterday afternoon!
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Jeff- Thanks for the info... That's one of the pages I've found during my research. FYI: I've started a new thread regarding this whole Mini power question, since the original problem with the Traveler has been resolved (they've shipped me a refurb!). Here's the new thread: http://jwsound.net/SMF/index.php?topic=7411.0
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I started an earlier thread regarding the Mac Mini & a MOTU Traveler (http://jwsound.net/SMF/index.php?topic=7350.0) which transmogrified into Mac Mini battery powering suggestions, so I thought I'd start a fresh topic here. To recap: I would like to power the Mac Mini (2009 Intel MM) on my cart using the PSC Powermax 18v output. I did find a couple of pages showing how to configure the wiring for the Carnetix input (below) and figure I will start there. Wiring P1900 Power Connection (how to wire the power brick cable): http://www.carnetix.com/p1900/P1900PowerConectionforMacmini/index.html In conjuction with the Intel MM Cable Modification (adds a resistor to the gray sensor cable): http://www.carnetix.com/p1900/P1900PowerConnectionForMm2/Macmini2IntelMacminiPowerCableMod/index.html DavidM responded with the suggestion that their would be a problem with converter noise: "The main issue is that in the Mac Mini "brick" power supply, there's lots of filtering. Without that power supply, you will end up with serious DC-DC converter noise from the Mac Mini going back down the power cable which will be a problem if you are using a common power supply with the rest of your audio equipment. By this I mean either or both common earth or positive volts. If you must go with a direct DC supply, it should be independent of your audio equipment power supply." So- it looks like the options are: 1: Use a small fanless DC-AC inverter in conjuction with the original "brick" 2: Use a separate DC power supply, such as a Li-Ion rechargeable 3: Figure out how to filter the DC noise from going back to the PSC Powermax from the Mini BTW- I'm not married to the idea that this has to be a DC-only solution (no inverter), but I'd prefer to go that route. Everything else on the cart is being fed from the Powermax & 2 batteries, but I am usually connected to mains power & use the battery power about 25% of the time. Anyone using the Mac Mini on their carts want to chime in with how they've resolved these issues? John
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David: Thanks for that info... I guess I'll either go with a small inverter, or rig a separate power supply. I'll check in with a friend who remembers more about filtering than I do (nothing to do with the gray hair,eh?). Maybe I should just use the Carnetix P1900, which a couple of other members have mentioned, although I'm trying to keep this within my budgetary constraints.
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Hmmm... I'll re-look at the inverter, but I'm still convinced that I can supply 18v DC & not have to go the AC-DC route.
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a Chevrolet commercial in the 1950's
John Moore replied to Jeff Wexler's topic in General Discussion
Was it behind the license plate? My first car: 1957 Ford Custom 2-door (well, actually it was only a 1-door. The driver's door had been bashed in & I got it for $125... I had to tell my dates to let me get in first, so I could slide over!) -
a Chevrolet commercial in the 1950's
John Moore replied to Jeff Wexler's topic in General Discussion
Oh, yeah... this is also a 1956 Chevy (4-door, though, not the really cool 2-door): -
Dfisk: oh, yeah... (slap to the forehead: d'oh!)
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a Chevrolet commercial in the 1950's
John Moore replied to Jeff Wexler's topic in General Discussion
1956 Bel Air 2-door hardtop: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Bel_Air 1956 was the year of the "lightning bolt" design, in both the Chevy & Ford cars. I took my driver's test in my best friend's 1955 Chevy (1973)! John -
Whitney- thanks for the info... Unfortunately, the TEL dials a fax/modem, the FAX goes unanswered. I know the Fostex.com USA site was shut down earlier this year, so no surprise! Oh, yeah- Senator: thanks, as usual, for your "helpful" advice... (I have been calling/searching, I was hoping someone could direct me to a trusted source). John
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I've been searching for a service center for the Fostex FR-2 (not LE), to no avail... Anybody know of a service center that can handle repairs? It's a problem with the internal power supply (batteries overheating). John
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Anyone have a US outlet for this? I've tried searching for the part number & description without any luck. John