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josephboyle

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Everything posted by josephboyle

  1. Hey Everyone, I just picked up a used 744t and when I was doing initial testing, the Rec button only functions some of the time (maybe 1 out of 20 or 30 presses, but it's not consistent), and this happens randomly after I haven't changed any settings. Also, once it actually starts recording, the Stop button won't function at all. I tried some of the menu shortcuts that involve the Stop button (Input Selection, Flashlight mode, etc.) and none of those worked either. This was my setup after resetting to factory settings: microphone in input 1, phantom power on, input routing was 1>A,B, I tried writing to both the INDD and CF independently and together and also verified that the CF card was working in another recorder. I also tested the exact same setup on my 702t and it worked fine. Has anyone else experienced this? It sounds like it is time to send it to Sound Devices for repair, but maybe I'm missing something? Thanks!
  2. Haha, I will keep that in mind.
  3. That's good advice and I will heed it. At the same time, there may be some universally held understanding about the size of blimps that I am unaware of and that someone with more experience than myself (I understand that it takes years of experience to get years of experience) could offer, which is why I posed the question. In any case, thanks again.
  4. Sorry, I should have been more clear. I realize that a blimp will affect the sound. I was more specifically wondering if this size of a setup would adversely affect the sound, as opposed to using a more traditional setup like a baby ball gag. I do have a ways to go in learning what to listen for, and will continue to do so. Hoping to get my hands on one of the v.2's to compare them. Thanks for all the replies!
  5. Daniel, Thanks for the information. That's really helpful. Which model do you have in particular? Is it this one - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1044548-REG/rycote_010321_super_shield_kit_medium.html? I also found this one, which seems to be the same thing, except you can disconnect the pistol grip, and it only comes with the large front pod - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1246580-REG/rycote_010323_super_blimp_ntg_for_rode.html. It seems like you should be able to use the other pod sizes for this as well? The reason I was wondering about the updated version of the Rode blimp is that it has the Rycote suspension system built in, and it looks like it even has a Connbox (though it doesn't look like it's Rycote). This is available for about $195 on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/252479468094?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), so I'm wondering if the 2x more expensive Rycote is worth that price difference. Thoughts?
  6. Hello everyone, I'm a low-budget filmmaker in Orlando and I understand the importance of good sound, so I try to keep a decent kit on hand. For the last 8 years or so, I have been using the 1st version of the Rode blimp and it has served me well. I started out with a ME66/K6 and have moved up to an MKH416. I recently acquired a CMC4MK41 and so I am wondering if I can use the Rode blimp for this as well? I realize that the blimp is way oversized for this setup, so I'm wondering if that extra space in there will affect the sound at all? Also, has anyone compared the 1st Rode blimp with the updated version that has the Rycote lyre suspension and Connbox? Is it a significant improvement? Thanks!
  7. I know this is a fairly old topic, but I just wanted to add my voice to the choir. Just had my CMC4 done last week and it sounds great. Pete does great work!
  8. Ahh, that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation and the excellent work Eric.
  9. Hey Everyone, Here is a clip of the issue that I was having with this mic. This was before it was rewired, but I'm wondering if anyone hears the issue I am hearing and can give me an idea of what is going on. His voice sounds harsh when he says "Tired" (specifically on the 'R' sound) and "Jet-lagged" (specifically on the 'G' sound). I don't think it is clipping (please correct me if I'm wrong). Could this be an issue with how his voice interacts with the mic or maybe an issue that can be remedied with proper EQ? https://www.dropbox.com/s/h4gzw5ky320k80f/audio-test.mp4?dl=0 This is the setup, as far as I can remember: Sanken COS-11D (wired like the photos above, taped underneath his shirt) into Sennheiser G3 wireless (-18dB on the body transmitter, -12dB on the receiver), being fed into a Tascam DR-60D ii (set on low gain, potentiometer @~75%). This is the raw audio with no extra processing or gain applied. Thanks for having a look!
  10. Just as a quick update, Eric down in Ft. Lauderdale rewired the mic and it sounds great. He's the man!
  11. Thanks for the information everyone! I will be giving Eric a call!
  12. Ahh, I see. Thanks for the info. Is it possible or common to get it re-terminated? If so, do you know how much that would cost generally, and do you have a suggestion for a specific one? I'm in Orlando, FL, but could ship somewhere else.
  13. Hello everyone, First time posting here. I recently purchased a Sanken Cos-11d (Normal Sensitivity) and the connector seems very shoddy to me, for what is supposed to be a very high quality mic. I checked with a friend of mine and he verified that the connector on his is different (we are both using the same 1/8" connection for a Sennheiser G3 system). I purchased it through B&H, so I assume that it is genuine. The connector says Hicon on the outside and it is made of plastic. Often times, when I attach or removed it from the transmitter, the Hicon plastic part comes unscrewed from the tip and exposes the solder points, which also seem pretty weak. Can anyone verify if this is the genuine connector or if theirs came with this as well? I have attached photos. Also, on a related note, I have heard a bit of crackling sound with this mic, even when it isn't close to peaking (around -12dB). Originally, I thought it was because I had the signal too hot at my transmitter or receiver on the G3 system. But, then I attached it directly to a JuicedLink Little DARling, which only has a simple gain setting, and it is still crackling. It only occurs with a voice though, and isn't cable noise. Any idea what could be causing this? (I apologize if my explanation isn't using the best terminology - I do audio out of necessity, but am not a dedicated sound mixer). Thanks! -Joseph
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