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Janik Hampe

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About Janik Hampe

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    Hero Member

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  • Location
    Dortmund, NRW / Germany
  • About
    I do work as a production sound mixer and boom operator in Germany.
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Wow, this one contains lots of great concepts, thanks for the hint! I especially like the idea of having two openings for passing the microphone through the frame. It´s shown at 9min 23s ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOOGusih2Eg&feature=youtu.be&t=9m23s ). I might try out that approach as it reduces the printed parts to only one. And you actually can activate automatically translated subtitles in the youtube player. The quality of translation is kind of bad but you´ll understand most of it.
  2. Hm, nice thought. I could imagine some cleverly bent spring steel to work for this. And the halves would need to overlap in some way to avoid any side movement. Good Idea, thanks!
  3. I´ll get some Lycra and test out, how flexible it is. Of course I´ll avoid any glueing or stitching if possible. I´ll also look up UV curing adhesives and keep them in mind. Well, that´s quite an engineering problem when using 3d printing as manufacturing method. Until now I haven´t been able to design such a mechanism that is reliable, rattle free and doesn´t use lots of material (affecting the sound) at the same time. Hi Allen, I have two rolls of PETG here but I´ve never been able to produce quality prints with it. Because of it´s hygroscopic nature, it soakes up lots of humidity from the air. When I was trying it out, it produced bubbly, soft and mushy, almoast foam-like prints that were stupid easy to bend. I suppose it´s the humidity. Or could it be something else? Do you experience similar behaviour? And do you de-humidify your PETG before printing? I´m thinking about getting a food dehydrator for this.
  4. Oh, I´d absolutely love beeing able to produce a large surround rig with four or five channels. Or at least a stereo blimp. Although I´d probably need a larger 3D printer as my printing volume already gets maxed out with this project. For those of you who are into 3d printing: I plan on buying a Prusa i3 MK3s or above in the distant future. I also do experiment with 3d printed suspensions, but there´s nothing worth showing yet. For a multi channel blimp, I´ll probably prefer having custom suspensions inside for a more economical and efficent use of space. The blimp really shouldn´t be larger than it has to be to deliver good wind protection. And a key engineering aspect would also be a 3d printable, rattle free and robust locking mechanism to open up the blimp. This is a very difficult one. But let´s put all this into perspective. I´m going to finish this project here. Then I´ll test it intensively throughout winter and next year´s summer with huge differences in temperature, having it inside my car and using it on some of my shoots. PLA isn´t quite a UV resistant material and has a low glass transition temperature. At this temperature it gets soft and can deform when applying force. I´ll probably also try to produce some versions using ABS and test them too. Or nylon which is extremely difficult to print but also extremely tough. And I expect to learn lots of things through these tests. After all this, maybe, I´ll consider some bigger projects using what I learned from all this. We´ll see.
  5. Hm, interesting. Not beeing a sailor and never having used a Nagra before I simply learned it the other way round. I have a background as a musician, used a lot of cables with red beeing the right channel and assumed this was an universal rule in color coding language. Well, the more you know... 😉
  6. Hi Jez, could you explain what you mean by that? I really don´t get it. If you´re talking about the cables´ color coding, that´s red for "right channel" and green for "left channel".
  7. As glueing Lycra to the inside of the frame becomes possible again, can you recommend any kind of glue for this job? The requirement is that the curing time has to be long enough to apply it to the whole inside of the frame part, get the Lycra into position and pressing it in evenly.
  8. I haven´t. Instead I gave the acetone another shot. But this time I sanded the surfaces of the two frame parts with 100 grit sandpaper and after that with 180 grit. I purposely left the sanding dust on the parts to act as a filler for the still existing gaps. Clamped the two parts together and applied acetone with the pipette. And voilà - we have a really robust connection that set in like 30 seconds! I threw it on the ground with force several times and it didn´t break apart. So I finally have a solution for this problem! To be continued...
  9. Really good idea and execution for quickly rigging a car scene. I´d probably put some heavy sand into the tube to prevent it from hopping around on bumpy roads. Thanks for sharing!
  10. O-ring installation Here you see the new o-ring containing part. The technique used here is called “bridging”, uses thin support structures and enables printing over air and steep overhangs. The support layer beeing only 0.2mm thick is easily removed with a deburring tool or a knife. For print settings I doubled the layer thickness from 0.1mm to 0.2mm for faster prototyping. It actually improved the quality as stringing became less of a problem. ... and the finished part with o-rings installed: Adventures of solvent welding Finally, the welding of the frame. At first I tried to use pure MEK, brushed on the two surfaces and held them together. The result was disappointing. At some points the parts welded but the connection was weak and I was able to break them apart easily. MEK has a low viscosity like water and the surfaces of the print aren´t flat because of the 3D printed lines have lots of air space between them. I tried to dissolve some PLA in the MEK to get a higher viscosity slurry with a chance of getting more contact area. After hours of the PLA sitting in the MEK, it looked like this. No dissolving of the PLA, only the grey color pigments gets extracted. So back to the drawing board. I did more research. Some people seem to have success welding PLA with Tetrahydrofuran. Some were successful with Acetone (which I also tested and which didn´t work). The differences of ingredients of available printing filaments seem to be quite large so there´s no guarantee for success. Another option would be to print in ABS. ABS is a less brittle, more UV resistant material and can be welded simply with acetone. It requires higher printing temperatures, a heated or at least enclosed print chamber and a really (!) well bonded first layer. Otherwise it will warp from the build platform and the print will fail most of the time. Maybe i´ll concider it for future experiments, but not for now. The all-in-one approach Stepping away from all these chemicals I simply printed the whole frame all in one. I guess I never considered it before because I thought it was impossible due to the very steep overhangs. But I seem to have dialed in my settings for PLA quite well and it turned out very nice. The only disadvantage of this approach is that you can´t glue anything to the inside of the frame anymore. The whole thing now looks like this. I´m quite happy how it turned out so far. To be continued....
  11. I asked the Sound Devices support about the possibility of a firmware upgrade bringing the usb auto copy feature from the 2nd generation to the MixPre-6 (1st generation). Sadly I was told, that the recoder does not have the capable hardware to perform this feature.
  12. Chemicals and tool prep After reading a little bit about Dichloromethane, its extreme toxicity for humen and the enviroment I decided not to try it out. Instead I ordered 200ml Methyl Ethyl Ketone (short MEK) from Ebay. It turned out that none of my rubber gloves weren´t save enough for working with MEK as it dissolves quite a lot of plastics. So I ordered some quite expensive, thick and robust butyl gloves as well as a glass pipette. Version 1.1 Meanwhile I had developed the 3D model to version 1.1. The major changes are: Added two rubber o-rings as a rattle-free and slip-free interface layer between the 3D printed part and the microphone. Replaced the thread with a custom profiled thread which has been optimised to be 3D printed (no overhangs above 45 degree). Moved the internal thread from the inside of the frame to the outside. This uses up a little more space on the microphone but enables me to reduce the needed support structures to a minimum resulting in faster prototyping. The model now looks like this (support structures not shown): To be continued...
  13. Wow, thanks Bernie for that very valuable piece of information. I´ll keep it in mind.
  14. Hi Dalton, thanks for the offer. I´m glad you´re interested. But I won´t print two and send them over to you since it would be kinda expensive from germany and this is early prototyping stage. So there probably will be major changes until the final design. But I plan on publishing the files when this project is done so by then you might be able to have it printed locally at your area. Thanks! The material inside my original Rycote blimp actually feels like I imagine air filter to feel like, beeing quite stiff and therefore probably harder to process. Of course it would be nice to use the blimps without fur. But my DIY projects often times suffer from me beeing too much of a perfectionist so there is no progress. For this one I decided to get things done. If the windjammers works, I´ll be using blimp + windjammer outside and foam inside. Simple as that. I´ll keep documenting my progress, stay tuned. Since I work on this between my jobs it only might take a while.
  15. Variable limiters, great! The other features are only nice to have, but not essential in my opinion. Now I´m really hoping for a copy-to-usb-drive update for my first generation MixPre-6 as the argument of differenciation beween the models isn´t true anymore. Do we know any prices yet? Couldn´t find any.
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