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Janik Hampe

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About Janik Hampe

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    Hero Member

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  • Location
    Dortmund, NRW / Germany
  • About
    I do work as a production sound mixer and boom operator in Germany.
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Glad you like it. šŸ™‚ There are lots of flexible filaments for 3D printing. And thereĀ“s also polypropylene available though I donĀ“t think itĀ“s very flexible. Many of the flexibles are based on TPU with some additions and vary from quite stiff to super flexible. The more flexible your filament is when not printed yet, the more tricky the printing process gets. Soft filament tends to jam right before going into the hot printing nozzle and needs really good low friction guidance inside the printhead. In consumer 3D printing there are basically two types of extruders: direct
  2. heat treatment / annealing I already talked about the low temperature resistance of PLA, my current material of choice. When you search for methods to make PLA stronger, you read a lot about annealing. You anneal a piece of 3D printed plastic by uniformly heating it up just above its ā€œglass transition temperatureā€, let it crystalize (which it does on its own) and then slowly let it cool down. Now your piece of 3D printed plastic should be stronger, less brittle and able to resist higher temperatures. Perfect for leaving the blimp in the car during a hot summer.
  3. Inspired by the russian video posted here about DIY blimps I designed a frame with two openings. One bigger opening through which the whole microphone can be inserted and a smaller one which still holds the two rubber o-rings and clamps onto the mic. I do like version 2.0 very much. Having only one 3D printed part is a way more elegant design than having to thread two parts together. On version 1.1 the thread sometimes came loose when I had the windjammers on and it had to be tightened again. In my usecase, which is keeping the microphones almost always inside t
  4. Wow, this one contains lots of great concepts, thanks for the hint! I especially like the idea of having two openings for passing the microphone through the frame. ItĀ“s shown at 9min 23s ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOOGusih2Eg&feature=youtu.be&t=9m23s ). I might try out that approach as it reduces the printed parts to only one. And you actually can activate automatically translated subtitles in the youtube player. The quality of translation is kind of bad but youĀ“ll understand most of it.
  5. Hm, nice thought. I could imagine some cleverly bent spring steel to work for this. And the halves would need to overlap in some way to avoid any side movement. Good Idea, thanks!
  6. IĀ“ll get some Lycra and test out, how flexible it is. Of course IĀ“ll avoid any glueing or stitching if possible. IĀ“ll also look up UV curing adhesives and keep them in mind. Well, thatĀ“s quite an engineering problem when using 3d printing as manufacturing method. Until now I havenĀ“t been able to design such a mechanism that is reliable, rattle free and doesnĀ“t use lots of material (affecting the sound) at the same time. Hi Allen, I have two rolls of PETG here but IĀ“ve never been able to produce quality prints with it.
  7. Oh, IĀ“d absolutely love beeing able to produce a large surround rig with four or five channels. Or at least a stereo blimp. Although IĀ“d probably need a larger 3D printer as my printing volume already gets maxed out with this project. For those of you who are into 3d printing: I plan on buying a Prusa i3 MK3s or above in the distant future. I also do experiment with 3d printed suspensions, but thereĀ“s nothing worth showing yet. For a multi channel blimp, IĀ“ll probably prefer having custom suspensions inside for a more economical and efficent use of space. The blimp really shouldnĀ“t
  8. Hm, interesting. Not beeing a sailor and never having used a Nagra before I simply learned it the other way round. I have a background as a musician, used a lot of cables with red beeing the right channel and assumed this was an universal rule in color coding language. Well, the more you know... šŸ˜‰
  9. Hi Jez, could you explain what you mean by that? I really donĀ“t get it. If youĀ“re talking about the cablesĀ“ color coding, thatĀ“s red for "right channel" and green for "left channel".
  10. As glueing Lycra to the inside of the frame becomes possible again, can you recommend any kind of glue for this job? The requirement is that the curing time has to be long enough to apply it to the whole inside of the frame part, get the Lycra into position and pressing it in evenly.
  11. I havenĀ“t. Instead I gave the acetone another shot. But this time I sanded the surfaces of the two frame parts with 100 grit sandpaper and after that with 180 grit. I purposely left the sanding dust on the parts to act as a filler for the still existing gaps. Clamped the two parts together and applied acetone with the pipette. And voilĆ  - we have a really robust connection that set in like 30 seconds! I threw it on the ground with force several times and it didnĀ“t break apart. So I finally have a solution for this problem! To be continued...
  12. Really good idea and execution for quickly rigging a car scene. IĀ“d probably put some heavy sand into the tube to prevent it from hopping around on bumpy roads. Thanks for sharing!
  13. O-ring installation Here you see the new o-ring containing part. The technique used here is called ā€œbridgingā€, uses thin support structures and enables printing over air and steep overhangs. The support layer beeing only 0.2mm thick is easily removed with a deburring tool or a knife. For print settings I doubled the layer thickness from 0.1mm to 0.2mm for faster prototyping. It actually improved the quality as stringing became less of a problem. ... and the finished part with o-rings installed: Adventures of solvent welding Finall
  14. I asked the Sound Devices support about the possibility of a firmware upgrade bringing the usb auto copy feature from the 2nd generation to the MixPre-6 (1st generation). Sadly I was told, that the recoder does not have the capable hardware to perform this feature.
  15. Chemicals and tool prep After reading a little bit about Dichloromethane, its extreme toxicity for humen and the enviroment I decided not to try it out. Instead I ordered 200ml Methyl Ethyl Ketone (short MEK) from Ebay. It turned out that none of my rubber gloves werenĀ“t save enough for working with MEK as it dissolves quite a lot of plastics. So I ordered some quite expensive, thick and robust butyl gloves as well as a glass pipette. Version 1.1 Meanwhile I had developed the 3D model to version 1.1. The major changes are: Added two rubber o-rings as a ratt
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