jason porter

If your suspension is covering any part of the interference tube, you have the wrong suspension. That being said, I've seen people cut a slit in the foam to accomodate the mount, but it would depend on which mount system to are using.

Nomad w 3 slot style receivers (2 x Wisy, 1 x SRb) G3 tx for simulateous mono-hop & IFB. 90wh v-lock with diy battery distro (similar to Battery Bud I) 12 spare AA (overkill) 4-6 tx, lavs and minimal cabling. It all comes in around 7kg. Typically, it doesn't bother my body/back, unless I have to do a lot of booming, but if I'm carrying that many wires, booming is usually minimal. I recently put together a smaller bag - MP10ii, 2 x MCR42 and 1 MPR30, G3 tx (hop & IFB) Hi-Q smart battery. Haven't weighed it, but it feels like I'm not wearing anything. All that being said - core strength is key (overall strength) Another thing I've noticed over 25 years. As my kit has gotten lighter, my body becomes accustomed to the new (less) weight and eventually will feel heavy again. Same with wearing a heavier bag, my body adjusts. It's probably important to mix it up and not stay with one configuration/harness etc for too long.

Check the solder connections and make sure the center pin on your SMA antennas are intact. That being said, there's no reason this mod will give you "better" range unless you use it to attach an external antenna that you can raise up above any away from sources of interference (humans) Anecdotally, people claim to be getting 10% better performance, but that's tough to prove in the world of RF. 1. You should be looking for the cleanest frequency available. 2. Get the Tx antenna away from sweaty skin. 3. Get the Rx antenna away from sources of interference. 4. Retain Line of Sight as much as possible, especially at the far end of your range.

Had a nice chat on FB messenger with them the other day, very approachable.

Bought the app, ordered the hardware. Looking forward to trying it out. Pixel 4a and a cheap 7" Lenovo Android tablet.

https://www.lectrosonics.com/wireless-guide.html

Depending on the camera, you might be able to use it as the master and hardline timecode to the MixPre (aux in) or just clap a dumb slate. The MixPre framerate shouldn't matter if you sync via waveform matching (pluraleyes)

Long time Nomad user, zero missing or corrupt files/cards. I only hand off Mirror cards. Due to some recent reports and the age of my Nomad, I've started backing up my Primary card, for added (job) security.

I've always had amazing range on my MTB plug on, even at the lowest RF power setting. I think that getting any plug on Tx up and above or away from any water bags (bodies) more than compensates for any compromises in the antenna.

I believe some of the SD models can output AES, depends which mixer they are using. The SD website has all the manuals.

Check balance setting, the up/down arrows on the face of the Rx. I always lock the controls to keep it from getting sent all the way to L or R.

If you write to Rycote, they will probably send you one. Goodluck.

All things being equal - if you're using a red mark cos-11 (-9db) and have the 411 at 0 (-5db) then you're adding 14db of noise to your signal. Correcting the gain structure will still result in 9db extra noise because of the red mark lav, unless you need the red mark lav to prevent overloading of the transmitter, which is unlikely with a typical speaking voice. You could always ask the rental house if they provided a red mark on purpose.

The TS3 was before HD video/23.98. Denecke has an update (i believe) but I don't know which position they assign to it.

From what I've experienced, a red dot lav will appear to add significantly more noise than a regular lav (10db?) I would guess that is why it sounds like the system had more noise. A red dot lav is for situations where you have a very loud sound source. My expectation would be that if you used a standard cos-11, you would be impressed. I've never noticed more noise floor on any of my Lectro systems VS a G2/3