jason porter

Can you remove the belt clip and see if it goes away? I wonder if the screw is touching something when you squeeze it. Another possibility is to open it up and see if anything is touching the case when you squeeze.

Could this be because the newer transmitters are 50 kHz deviation VS the older SRa 75 kHz deviation?

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https://cleaning.lovetoknow.com/Clean_Alkaline_Battery_Corrosion It is possible that some of the electronics were damaged from the corrosion, but I think the corrosion should be contained to the battery tube.

If you can see and access the battery tube, you might be able to clean off the corrosion.

90% clothing. Usually it's determined by lightweight fabric that just will not support the weight of the rig.

Good point! I used COS-11s (regular sensitivity) I also experimented with going line level in with P48 (788 or 744, probably both) Mic level worked best, if I recall correctly. As for plane noise - I used this setup in all types of military & commercial aircraft, helicopters such as a Sikorsky s76 (relatively quiet) as well as the C-130 Hercules, V-22 Osprey, DHC-5 Buffalo, CH-149 Cormorant, C5, C17, C2 Greyhound...others I can't recall at the moment.

Wisycom sent me a file to reload the mapped freqs on my MCR42 receivers after I accidentally erased them. Maybe they can do the same for you (to match your Tx)

I know it's more involved, but HANDS DOWN the best setup that has worked for me is this - Run a wired lav mic to each headset mic, "sister" it up, sometimes you can tuck it in with the existing foam. Run the lavs to a recorder (I've run up to 5 on a larger plane) Take care to dress the cable and address any pinch points and add strain relief where necessary. This sounds 100% better, no weird gating, complete control of the levels, consistent ambient sound.

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Thanks for stepping in Larry. Here's what Ambient sent to me (I was the previous owner of the UMP) From Ambient - ...all the interaction between a beltpack, built around unbalanced mid impedant lav mics and a condenser mic, low impedant and balanced can be challenging to find the right configuration. Most part of it is the beltback ground/chassis being part of the RF stage (ground plane the RF signal is generated against). So, the condenser and UMP effectively become port of the “antenna”. We try to keep options open as much as possible by a) not tying the UMP shell to ground on both ends and b) not supplying the lead for the transmitter. Things to try: Reverse the phase on the output cable, which means tying hot to ground instead cold Leave ground open (using only pin 3) and connecting shild just on one side (either may give different results)# Cut the wire connecting shell to pin 1 on the TA 4 F connector of the input cable I’m afraid there is no way around an in depth trial and error procedure to find the optimum condition (which not necessarily will be reflecting “perfect”) mit freundlichen Gruessen/Best Regards Klaus

In case no one mentioned it yet, it's a good ideas to add sound dampening materials to any hard surfaces (where practical) I would suggest a folded up sound blanket on the passenger side floor, as well as the floor behind the front seats. I wouldn't put anything on the driver side though, for obvious reasons. I will echo others who recommended a lav taped to your cheek or a hardwired headset mic. If you can find a dynamic headset mic, even better for eliminating background sounds.

If you don't need the size of the 6060, maybe the 4060 is a better choice (cheaper!) I used to regularly use a Holophone that used 4060 elements and it sounded pretty darn good.

How about a timecode slate?