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jason porter

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About jason porter

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  • Birthday 07/21/1974

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    I have been recording sound for almost 20 years. Mostly TV, doc & lifestyle.
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Good point! I used COS-11s (regular sensitivity) I also experimented with going line level in with P48 (788 or 744, probably both) Mic level worked best, if I recall correctly. As for plane noise - I used this setup in all types of military & commercial aircraft, helicopters such as a Sikorsky s76 (relatively quiet) as well as the C-130 Hercules, V-22 Osprey, DHC-5 Buffalo, CH-149 Cormorant, C5, C17, C2 Greyhound...others I can't recall at the moment.
  2. Wisycom sent me a file to reload the mapped freqs on my MCR42 receivers after I accidentally erased them. Maybe they can do the same for you (to match your Tx)
  3. I know it's more involved, but HANDS DOWN the best setup that has worked for me is this - Run a wired lav mic to each headset mic, "sister" it up, sometimes you can tuck it in with the existing foam. Run the lavs to a recorder (I've run up to 5 on a larger plane) Take care to dress the cable and address any pinch points and add strain relief where necessary. This sounds 100% better, no weird gating, complete control of the levels, consistent ambient sound.
  4. https://www.reynoldskitchens.com/products/food-storage/wax-paper/
  5. Thanks for stepping in Larry. Here's what Ambient sent to me (I was the previous owner of the UMP) From Ambient - ...all the interaction between a beltpack, built around unbalanced mid impedant lav mics and a condenser mic, low impedant and balanced can be challenging to find the right configuration. Most part of it is the beltback ground/chassis being part of the RF stage (ground plane the RF signal is generated against). So, the condenser and UMP effectively become port of the “antenna”. We try to keep options open as much as possible by a) not tying
  6. In case no one mentioned it yet, it's a good ideas to add sound dampening materials to any hard surfaces (where practical) I would suggest a folded up sound blanket on the passenger side floor, as well as the floor behind the front seats. I wouldn't put anything on the driver side though, for obvious reasons. I will echo others who recommended a lav taped to your cheek or a hardwired headset mic. If you can find a dynamic headset mic, even better for eliminating background sounds.
  7. If you don't need the size of the 6060, maybe the 4060 is a better choice (cheaper!) I used to regularly use a Holophone that used 4060 elements and it sounded pretty darn good.
  8. See post #35 by Larry F (Lectrosonics)
  9. I ran a short length of rg58 (I believe) + BNC-F from the front (soldered) to the 'back'. I added zip ties to hold the cable. Mostly for strain relief and to accomodate good RF cable & BNC connectors (vs SMA connectors)
  10. DT250's My ears have never been better. Switched from 7506's (after almost 20 years, please don't judge, haha)
  11. Like stuffing a marshmallow into a keyhole.
  12. Like I said, probably misremembered from something else. I found this in the manual - To ensure safety, the charger performs a battery health “impedance check” at the beginning of the program. If the battery fails this test, “HIGH” would be displayed and program will be terminated.
  13. From memory, so don't hold me to this. There's a "membrane" that separates the chemicals that breaks down over time/charges. So the chemicals are now mixing and causing the voltage spike, in a bad way. I'm going to Google this now, to see if my memory is garbage.
  14. Maybe a smallish campfire to keep the electronic components warmed-up.
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