Allen Rowand

Well, I guess they got it out before 2019… It's here! Download MixPre v3.00 today for awesome new features and important stability fixes. USB Control Surfaces Control your MixPre with the Korg nanoKONTROL Studio or nanoKONTROL2, Akai MIDImix, or Novation Launch Control XL. Ambisonics Plugin The only thing more exciting than a new plugin is a free new plugin. Get ambisonic and binaural recording, monitoring, and playback on your MixPre-6 and MixPre-10T. Wingman v3.20 Use your iOS or Android devices to control and meter your MixPre-M model or MixPre running the Musician Plugin. ASIO Driver The new ASIO driver for Windows expands I/O and increases sample rates up to 96 kHz for your MixPre-M model or MixPre running the Musician Plugin.

Yeah, the documentation seems to say one thing while their cable lineup implies another. I'll probably just have to test it once the unit gets here.

Does the :wave need separate LTC in and out cables, or does it switch internally depending on mode? The pinout for the Lemo 5 shows pin 2 as LTC in/out, but TCS sells dedicated input and output cables. Trying to keep cable inventory to a minimum…

Wouldn't that be a Wilhelmina?

Finally joined the club! First walk test was very encouraging, had full strength RF through a couple walls. Next stop, log periodic antenna and splitter…

Please stop 🙂. Couldn't pass up the price on a 1510 case. Seriously, thank you @Daniel Ignacio for your work in compiling and updating this list!

Yeah, I wish TCS would make a small, inexpensive Bluetooth to Blink bridge for phone control… call it "blip".

Gotham got a bunch of my money thanks to Orca and TCS, as well as their expendables sale.

Well don't I feel like an idiot. Some gentle jiggling (on the connector) and the TA4 fit. It didn't feel like it was going to at first, and I didn't want to force it because those pins aren't the most robust. I'm still glad I ordered the TA3s since I have to build another cable. Thanks for getting me to take another look.

Gotham Sound is also honoring the Timecode Systems Black Friday pricing…

Thanks for the head's up about Sommer. I've always gotten great service from Redco, I'm just impatient about shipping. I used to be about 40 miles away from them so cheap ground shipping used to take a day or two. Now I'm on the other side of the country and have to wait several days for delivery- you know, like we had to do before Amazon spoiled our expectations of service. I don't know how informative I am among the talent here, but I appreciate the thought! I'm trying to listen more than I talk and be helpful when I can.

The cable I need to build is a TA3F to 3.5mm, and the pin spacing between the TA3 and TA4 is different. The next Redco shipment should be here Saturday, no big deal. I hate to ship the 302 out just to get contact cleaner squirted in the pots. I used to build, repair, and modify Cadac J-Types for a living: So a three channel mixer shouldn't be too big a deal.

My understanding is that the sync out on the USO can be configured as a second LTC output, so am I correct in thinking that I could run one output to my MixPre 6 and the other to my camera using my breakaway cable? If so, the USO just got way more interesting for me. Plus the DSLR two pack is discounted for Black Friday…

I just picked up a used 302 and some of the pots are a little scratchy. I opened it up and got some Stabilant 22 into the return level pots and they cleaned up nicely- now I'd like to give the rest a going over. Has anyone gone into the guts of one of these? I'm amazed at how much is packed into that case! I'm looking for any hints or tips, anything to be careful of, etc. I'm in a bit of a holding pattern since I thought I had TA3 connectors on hand to make link cables, but they were TA4. Thought I'd give the mixer a once over while I wait for parts- sure do wish Redco had a west coast office…

Neither of these gets me closer to having a 633! In all seriousness, this would be pretty difficult to print. My guess is that there's pins that go into the top and bottom plates to form the hinge- that wouldn't be very sturdy if printed. Finding a metal pin the right size and fitting it into the printed door would be… difficult. You'd also have to figure out what I assume is the magnetic latch. Honestly, if you can buy the door as a spare part I'd Dremel out the material between the USB port and the "ridge" in the door (or cut from the port all the way back) and call it good. Then have the original to swap back in if you need.