Allen Rowand

Manual says eight tracks at 192kHz, try leaving out the L/R mix in the Rec settings. Also need to turn off advanced limiting and automix. I'll give it a go later if I have time.

There are still Android tablets?!? After my NVIDIA Shield K1 was EOL'd I gave up on them. I switched to an iPad to use with the F8n and hate it (the iPad, that is). For the record my Pixel 3 on Android 10 is also incompatible with SD Remote.

The 500 series and higher have a headphone output on the receiver.

Hi Janik, I store my filament in a plastic container with a reusable silica dessicant like this: I throw my filament in the oven at 70-80C for about four hours to dry it. I only bake the filament if I have problems printing. I don't use PETG that often, PLA normally does what I need. I recently printed roof panels form my friend's little library in PETG, since it will be outdoors: It was somewhere around 36 hours of print time!

PETG works pretty well, but you'd need to do a lot of tweaking to reduce stringing in a design like this. I use it for anything I expect to be in the sun for any amount of time.

Yes; I've seen both raw connectors and premade cable assemblies available. Looks like a lot of the cables are made for the RED One camera.

That would be @IronFilm, and I was wondering the same thing!

I'm trying to avoid carrying both batteries in the bag, so rather than use them in parallel to extend the mAh capacity I'd swap. Run on one battery until it's low, then connect a fresh battery and remove the first. When both are connected the fresh battery may begin to back-charge the old one, but only for a few seconds. I think my bag should be good for a day on one battery, but I want to have a plan in place before I prove myself wrong!

Thanks, I figured parallel would be fine. The batteries are the same voltage and capacity. Back when I worked on Cadac mixing consoles they had diode bridges to combine the main and backup power supplies. I'd always tweak the output voltage up to correct for the voltage loss.

Thinking about adding a second battery connector so that I can hot swap batteries without bringing the bag down. I was considering using diodes to isolate the batteries, but I don't want the voltage drop that would bring. Do I even need isolation? I don't want to run both batteries at the same time, just connect a second then disconnect the first.

Thanks! I still need to calibrate the battery percentage; my work has been indoors with wall power, but I've hopefully got some bag work coming up.

I haven't seen an Apple laptop with Toslink (or an analog audio input) in years. I guess omitting that circuitry lets them make the laptop .05mm thinner, which is more important than functionality in the new dongle based economy. I guess the code is still in the OS because my hackintosh shows multiple analog as well as digital audio I/O ports.

I carry a cheap USB to audio dongle with 3.5mm I/O with me. I set the sub output from my recorder to mic level and run that into the dongle; this feeds the web-conference software (like Zoom) that I use to provide audio to our live captioning service. Much more reliable than a mobile phone.

Premiere users can! https://www.newsshooter.com/2017/05/10/adobe-premiere-pro-version-2017-1-users-reporting-media-files-completely-disappearing/ This is even worse. Please keep the internet out of my audio editor, if I want to share files online there are scores of services to do that. I'm really tired of every application subscription offering proprietary cloud storage. I'm also tired of software subscriptions. Get off my lawn!

Thanks for the ideas- I put the cutting blade on my butane soldering iron and cut it like butter: Now I can pass the power and signal for my receivers inside the main bag.

I need to make an access hole into a pocket on an AO-1X; is there a better way than just making an X incision with a razor? I really don't understand why there isn't a passthrough between the outer side pockets and the battery pockets. This would allow cables to run from the RF pocket though the battery pocket and into the main body.

Best. Comment. Ever.

I don't know how much certification a receiver or antenna distro needs. Transmitters on the other hand…

Well, that didn't take long- v2 is built! The remote is mostly the same, just as small as I can make it: I shaved a couple mm off the thickness as well. Depending on how I mount it I might be able to not use the cover screws: The main distro is much smaller, thickness is roughly the same. I printed a cap to cover the unused output: There's a mode switch to set whether I'm running from a battery or mains: When in battery mode the power meter estimates the percentage of charge remaining. This assumes I'm using my 6000mAh pack and it's starting from a full charge: I've also programmed a low voltage warning: In this photo I've hooked up a 9v battery to simulate low voltage; in real use it obviously wouldn't report 99% left. The battery mAh rating and low voltage warning level can be changed if/when I upgrade my battery. Looking forward to testing next week!

Nice!

Can you post pictures of your receiver? Make sure that the antenna is fully seating in the SMA connector, too.

Lectro brand triskets?

I wonder how much of a kickback they're getting on the Citi payday loans, I mean "financing tool"? Gross.

Thanks @Dalton Patterson and @Mirror! Dalton, I agree that it could be made a bit smaller. I could print an enclosure for the distribution end that would only be as big as necessary. I don't know about the wiring; it's only 18 gauge now. Downsizing the remote would take some work, though. It's not much bigger than the internal components, but I might be able to thin it if I shave connectors down.

I'm using a Talentcell 6000 mAh 12v pack with a built in USB port: https://amzn.to/2EDi5ip $30 US. When I upgrade my radios I'll probably step up to an Inspired Energy battery rig, but for now this has worked with no issues