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Paul F

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Everything posted by Paul F

  1. I use passive splitters and a bias-T to supply power to the antenna. The advantage being you can optimize how many splits you use and as you say, eliminate one amplifier. Yes, more cables and more boxes.
  2. Indeed, these are very inventive boxes and Deity is breaking new ground. What I'd like to see if it is possible, is some papers on the topic of 2.4G wireless that helps us know when and how to use it. UHF is no panacea, but manufacturers have given us papers on the issues with UHF, they have given us tools to scan the spectrum, they have given us tables to get around the problem. It would be helpful to have some materials that allow us to plan our 2.4G use.
  3. I don't know if it's a problem or not. I don't understand RF. It's all to spacey for me. I'd like to read a paper on this topic but I can't find any. It's a matter of understanding how each wireless device works and it's pros and cons. 2.4G wireless is very successful and shouldn't be written off. It's just a matter of understanding what works and what doesn't. The more you know, the better you can use your tools. Why not have 2.4G and UHF in your kit?
  4. Well, there's the rub. 2.4Ghz wifi was intended to be a bursty transmission system for computing devices; sending packets in bursts while sharing bandwidth and spectrum. I expect the 13 overlapping channels were not forseen to be used as they are today. In order to send video or audio, a channel has to be used continuously. When using 2.4G wifi in this manner, there are only 4 non-overlapping channels. There's a diagram showing this in the wiki below. I haven't found any papers that explain how to expect 2.4G devices behave in various conditions. From the wiki - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2.4_GHz_radio_use
  5. Paul F

    Lav Mics

    Anna, the reason for Benjamin's response is that your post is highly suspect to be a troll post or an amateur no one wants to talk to or the fact that this question has been covered a million times or if you're on this forum, you should know the answer to the question. So I'd suggest that you search this site for the many posts discussing the wide variety of ways to do what you are asking. Every mixer has their own tricks to hiding lavs with any number of types of tape, foam, and other widgets. The number of possibilities are extensive and your description of the clothing doesn't begin to help answer the question. One could write an encyclopedia to describe what materials to use and how to use them. It's a lengthy topic. Each application may be different. Use google to search this site with various key words such as "hide lav site:jwsoundgroup.net". Also look at the many youtube videos that cover this topic. There is much more information about hiding lavs on this site than there is on Youtube, but you have spend some time searching and reading. Cheers and best of luck.
  6. I'm going to buy the CMC 1 also for the same reason. I'm not a fan of specialty cable setups like that on the Osix. The connector adds bulk and weight which defeats the whole purpose of the CMC 1. If I went with a Cinela, I'd cut off the XLR connector and cable, which means I'm not going to buy the Cinela. I haven't decided what suspension I'm going to use. I plan to connect my boom cable directly to the CMC-1 (rt. angle XLR).
  7. The next questions are: - How many LED watts do you think you need or can you budget? - What is your power source? 12V? Goosenecks are ok, but they tend to be pretty low lumens. I use a 12V mixing console light that is mounted via XLR. I made up my own mount. It's fine for my bag/small cart, but I don't think it's enough for what you may have in mind. Some of these could be adapted to a baby pin. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12v+led+gooseneck&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
  8. A long LED light bar presents obvious issues when using an articulating arm. Why do you have a preference for the LED strip? Would a single light work if it was bright enough? I'm thinking there are plenty of gooseneck and other articulating lights available that can be adapted to the cart. How is the cart constructed? That helps understand what sort of mountings will work with the cart.
  9. I agree on all points. I don't like musicals. There I was, watching this movie and never realized I was watching a musical.
  10. Ahh, you RF guys. I always admired you. In my first job working on microwave radar jammers for aircraft that fly above 80,000' (there's only one), I'd see these guys come up with the oddest widgets. It was always J space to me. I stuck with the ones and zeros. I always felt it if you can't do RF, you do analog and if you can't do analog you do digital and if you can't do digital you sell real estate. That sounds novel. You should patent it.
  11. I've been sold on right angle connectors for a lot of cables since a notebook PC I had came with a right angle power connector. It saved me many times from breaking the connector on the PCB.
  12. That was Harve Presnell that sang Maria. Wonderful. Lee sang Wandering Star. When I heard him sing that in Paint Your Wagon I almost fell off my seat. I play it quite often through the years. He really didn't want to do it, but it's a classic. I like how they picked a key that made his vocal chords rattle.
  13. The easy way to do it is to use the 1x2 profile (as shown in your picture) which has a hole though the middle of it that will take a solid rod though it. In that picture, where the rod comes out (you don't need the end cap that is shown in the picture), add as many washers as needed to provide clearance from the cart (it depends on how far your wheel axle sticks out. Mine uses 2 washers). On the outside of the wheel, put another washer and drill a hole in the axle for a cotter pin on the outside of the washer. Very simple and just requires a metal saw and a drill. It looks like a nice bit of stainless rod in that picture, but you can use aluminum for the way I did it (no threads). If I recall correctly, the hole is big enough for a 5/8" rod, which is a common axle size for the cart wheels. Buy wheels with built-in bearings. 1x2 extrusion - https://www.tnutz.com/product/ex-1020/ [edit] Update - here is the thread you are looking for. No more information other than the end cap and axle are custom made as suspected by Derek. Perhaps contact 100sideprojects who made the parts.
  14. If I can piggyback on to Trey's inquiry, which one's are the least susceptible to RF interference?
  15. You've hit on the weak point of the table. I pondered that point for a long time before making the table and never came up with a solution I like. I thought I would use it a while and see if anything clicks. I like your velcro suggestion a lot. It works, but there's no way it is going to stay there if you move the cart. I never intended that it would. Even standing still, if someone bumps into it, there it goes. I've also thought about putting a raised edge on the back side to keep things from rolling off (my cart has a slight backwards lean on purpose), but I've resisted that because it won't fold up as small as I want. But you're response has just inspired me with a solution. Yes, I made the base. You can't really see it, but it's two separate boxes. The front box acts as a brace to make the cart stable since I am only using 25mm t-slot. The rear box is a shallow box to support a folding chair and umbrella that get strapped to the back of the cart.
  16. You mark where you are going to dig. Then call 811. All the utilities come out and mark their underground pipes and conduits so that when you dig, you don't cut a gas line etc.
  17. Here's a couple of cart projects that may give you some ideas for your cart. I made a small folding table top for the top of the cart. It's a handy little space to put things while working on something or making adjustments. It sets up and folds away quickly. The table is made from some thin hardwood stock that is available online. The two pieces are held together by gluing sturdy fabric (duck cloth) on the back side. The supports are 3/4" aluminum stock that is bent around the antenna posts. Everything folds away when not in use. I like to drink coffee all day from a mug. These coffee cup holders from T-Nutz work well for mugs or tall drink holders. The nice feature they have is that they slip on/off, which can be handy for narrow doorways. I added two hooks to the bottom of each cup holder. They are made from 3/4" aluminum stock. They have a spacer on the bottom which allows them to be folded under the cup holders with the headphones still in place when passing through doorways.
  18. I did a search for wireless products that have a recorder in them and I found one that has been around for a long time. Who could forget Mr. Microphone? That takes you older people back a ways eh? For $30, this thing has everything. Microphone, wireless, recording to SD card, effects, and even a speaker. What more do you need? This product could kill the Shure theatrical market. Just give everyone in the Hamilton show a Mr. Microphone. So is this prior art or does it violate the Zaxcom patent? This is why I find patents so confusing and miserable to deal with. https://www.amazon.com/MR-MICROPHONE-Seen-Microphone-Rechargeable/dp/B07XSCTKGB/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=mr+microphone&qid=1616102006&sr=8-3
  19. For a DIY solution, I made up this rig for the umbrella. I used a 1" square tube that stores under the t-slot and slides out for use. I bolted a baby pin to the tube. I made an extension that attaches to the baby pin. The square tube locks into place with a thumbscrew. The umbrella handle foam comes off for this purpose but can be put back on if I want to use it hand-held.
  20. I have both of the antennas in your first two links. I don't recommend the ones in the first link. The wire is a solid spring wire that easily takes a permanent bent shape if bent too far. I accidentally ordered those one time instead of the ones in the second link. They are no good. The antennas in the second link are good. It uses multi-strand stainless wire, is very flexible, does not kink. You'll need some really good cutters to cut the wire. Even then, it takes a lot of nipping with the cutters to cut the strands. You'll ruin scissors trying to cut the stranded wire. I use a cut off angle grinder. Also notice that although it says it is for 700Mhz, the antenna is 16cm long, so it's plenty long for lower frequencies.
  21. This is exactly the point. The needles are so small and sharp now. Why do we have such anxiety about a tiny pin prick? I guess it's built into us. I get the flu shot every year and it's nothing. It's so nothing, shot anxiety should just not be an issue. I know, I know, that's easy to say, but really, it's nothing these days.
  22. Very cool. You went from sad to glad. Cool beans. Jeremy, I'm jealous of your Italian leather upgrade. I'm stuck with cold aluminum dimples. Nicely done.
  23. A patent's claims are valid for 10 years and then suddenly, ten years later, the patent office decides all the claims are invalid. This is why I'm so glad I'm not involved with patents anymore. What a circus.
  24. Ok, thanks. I see now why I was confused about what you needed. I didn't realize that there was version that had a rubber overlay. I also wanted to see the picture to see if there was something that could be fabricated to replace it. You may still get lucky that they have some spares. Their spares prices are not unreasonable, so maybe a new set of collars won't give you too much sticker shock. The only thing I can think of in terms of DIY would be to use marine grade heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. Not a great solution, but maybe one or two layers would do.
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