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Michael Render

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About Michael Render

  • Rank
    Hero Member
  • Birthday August 13

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  • Website URL
    www.rendersound.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Akron, OH
  • About
    I have worked on and off doing sound for low-budget films since 1988. Mixer, editor, recordist.
  • Interested in Sound for Picture
    Yes

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  1. I know this is probably old hat to most of you guys around here, but I got my first on screen credit as a sound designer. The film gets a Blu-ray release on Tuesday. I have a few acting credits and soundtrack credits from back in the day. But I have never received a technical credit. I am chuffed.
  2. Rick, I believe you are right. I found this diagram on the Sennheiser site. So if the center picture is correct, Mic and Bias to tip Ring and Sleeve tied to ground. Good idea but I already asked them about the pin outs and they supplied me the info for the AT899. The marketing director at AT and I were both in each other's wedding parties. Our sons are best friends.
  3. I am going to wire an older AT899(cW) for a Sennheiser G4 3.5mm. Am I correct that I connet the Mic (white) to the tip and tie the Bias(red) and ground to both the ring and sleeve?
  4. The H5 not as goods the F6, but probably not enough to justify replacing it. I would work with what you got and save up for a Sound Devices.
  5. It’s all Psychohistory, my friend. I am looking forward to the rise of Hari Seldon.
  6. Currently, I have been doing some field recordings with a Sennheiser MKH 416 and an Audio-Technica BP-4025. I put them into the same blimp using Rycote risers. It is interesting hearing how they capture distinctly different textures. The 416 being very focused and directional, the 4025 being very wide. They are being recorded into a F8n. If money were no object, I would get a MKH 30 to pair with my MKH 50 and get some M/S recordings. The BP-4025 is the big brother of the AT-822. I am impressed with Audio-Technica’s bang for the buck.
  7. I wouldn’t put much effort into answering. This is an almost word-for-word copy of a post made about a year ago. I don’t understand the purpose, but it seems like weird spam.
  8. I did exactly what you are doing. Started with a Talentcell and a Y connector. Then moved to a Remote Audio BDS v4U. Then added on an Inspired Energy. I still have the Talentcell as a backup. The new setup lasts longer and is more flexible, but cable costs have gone up. Most of my cables I bought here from other members selling off gear.
  9. It was a brand new tip on a FX888D. The problem was not soldering the wires on, it was removing the current connections. I ended up setting the temperature to 850 F and removing all the current solder using flux and desoldering wick.. Then I tinned the new wires and connected using 60/40 solder and flux. It now works a treat. I just never had to go through that much effort before.
  10. Wow, thanks again. That video was great.
  11. Dalton, thanks for the good advice. I have accumulated solder over the years. I have the “good stuff” in a variety of sizes. What is the alcohol for? I’ve never used alcohol whilst soldering. And, of course I have the little stand with the clips and magnifying glass.
  12. 70 Watts - variable temperature. Hakko FX888D-23BY. I think you may be right. I need to pick up some flux and desoldering wick.
  13. I needed to rewire a XLR5F to 2-XLR3M splitter. (It turns out that DMX pin assignments are not the same as audio) I normally keep my Hakko at 750F, but that didn't even make a dent in the solder joints. I had to go to 850 and barely got flow. Is this normal these days? Has anyone else experienced this? I am a not great with solder, but I usually don't have this much trouble. Any advice from experienced solderers would be appreciated.
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