Michael Render

I am in need of a new windshield for my 416. I came across the Rycote Super-Shield and the Super-Blimp. Is there a big difference between them? To me, they seem identical except for color and the Super-Shield has a pistol grip. Is that it?

Thanks for the heads up. I was just about to update to 7.16. I guess I will hold off.

I brought up a browser to search for it.... then.... good one. You had me for a second.

Thank you for you advice. I ended up taking the pole apart (thanks, YouTube) and was able to get the pole all collapsed again. Since there were no kinks in the cable and no damage to any pole segment, here is what I think happened: We were shooting for a week in a cold location here in Ohio. Routinely about 40 degrees on set. The cable in the extended pole became stiff in the cold and kept the pole from collapsing fully. I guess this not a problem if it is warm.

I have just finished a shoot using my K-Tek KP16 with coiled cable and side exit. For most of the shoot, the pole lived on a c-stand. When we struck, I was not able to retract the pole all the way. Did I stretch out the cable to much? Is there a way to correct this? I appreciate any wisdom you may have.

Technically, they combined editing and mixing into one award after 2019. I can see their point from a public facing point of view, but it is a bit of a slap in the face to sound professionals.

Holy moly, the MixPre 10 II went up $159 since I bought mine on December 1st. I just missed the increase.

It sure does! Thank you. I am vacillating between the Junior and Small. I may just have to get both, Heh.

I am hearing from others that the Small-X is the way to go. Thank you for sharing your experience.

I just upgraded to the MixPre 10 II, and it does not work well with my Orca OR-30 bag. The combination of the weird Hirose power jack on the bottom and the entry wheel on the right side makes using the OR-30 awkward. Has anybody had the same experience? Any recommendations for a better bag?

I am doing the same thing with G4s without issue. SK 500 transmitting to a EK IEM. Halter Technical headphones. Focus mode or Stereo mode both send to both ears. Have you had the receiver and headphones working in another context? Does an IEM transmitter work with it?

Marching bands are always tricky and indoors, even more so. The MK4 has 132db max spl so you should be fine. If you are only using 2 mics, try to get a x/y or ortf setup behind the drum major. As close to their ear level as permitted. Too many times I have seen people place mics at the back of the arena and struggle with echo from the back wall and chatter from the audience. If the band is doing their routine (changing positions) you may want to throw 2 additional mics far left and right to cover it. This is tricky because the band is actively compensating for delay and you may have to align this afterward. In smaller venues, this is not so bad. In bigger venues, it becomes noticeable. Drums in marching bands are tuned much higher than something similar on a drum set, so a lav can work nicely on them without losing too much low end. The problem for individual micing is that there is usually 10+ drums. Unless you are featuring one particular drummer, I wouldn't do it. My son was a featured performer (quads) on a video and he had a mic and gopro on his rig. It turned out quite nice. Individual drums usually are about 80-110 db, so a COS 11D could take that. Results will be different depending on a lot of factors: Where are you allowed to place mics? (during competitions, there are some strict rules) Will there be an audience? This helps with reverb. Will the band be static or in motion? Good luck.

I am jealous of your setup! Looks great. I have been playing around with a Zoom H3-VR and would love to move up to a kit like yours.

I have the one from Rode that I use with a MKE2. It works, but not great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7ZZH2K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am doing an educational shoot for Professor TLMR (The Lovely Mrs Render). I don't get paid, but the perks are excellent.

I am just venting, I know some of your grizzled veterans have been through much worse. So, this weekend I was asked, as a favor, to do two 6-hour days shooting a short film with child actors. We are now into 2 10+ hour days, at night, outside, in Ohio in the October cold. Set is a corn field far from any buildings or lights. They brought in a generator to run the lights - the loudest generator I have ever heard. All dialog recorded so far sounds like actors are in front of a gas powered lawn mower. And the MKH 416 did some amazing phasing as the generator came in and out of axis. The camera crew was unfamiliar with their gear and took 4 hours to get set up. The Arri lights kept blowing fuses and all the lights went down. There were no work lights in the staging area - had to do all rigging and setup with a flashlight. (By day two, I got them to setup an HMI for the crew) The director was surprised when I didn't want to continue once it started raining. And don't get me started about the inordinate amount of time doing setup and blocking between shots. I have never worked this slowly in my life. It was so cold I had to keep wiping down my gear as rivers of condensation formed. The AC, Gaffer and I spent a lot of time huddled in a van to get warm. The child actors were troopers through all this. My hats off to them. <rant off> Share your horror stories to make me feel better!

Yours is much cooler than mine! I use a Keter organizer case covered in Velcro - both inside and out. I stick all the chargers on the inside for transport and on the top for use. The organizer holds spare batteries and Storacells.

The specs list the battery life for Alkaline AA is only 30 minutes or so with everything turned on. 7.5 hours with all phantom, time code, and outputs off. So yeah, with two phantom channels turned on, 2+ hours is on par. My F8n with an Inspired Energy smart battery, on the other hand, can go all day.

The baseball won. My friend, local broadcaster Jon Bozeka, was calling a game today when the ball came straight at him. He backed up to avoid injury. The gear did not. $4k down the drain.

I use a HI-Q single charger. If yours is like mine, the light should quickly cycle red-yellow-green-off and remain off with no battery attached. If the red light stays on, my guess is there is a problem with your charger. The only way to know for sure is to try a combination of different chargers and batteries. Do you know anyone locally? Any local shops?

I know this is probably old hat to most of you guys around here, but I got my first on screen credit as a sound designer. The film gets a Blu-ray release on Tuesday. I have a few acting credits and soundtrack credits from back in the day. But I have never received a technical credit. I am chuffed.

Rick, I believe you are right. I found this diagram on the Sennheiser site. So if the center picture is correct, Mic and Bias to tip Ring and Sleeve tied to ground. Good idea but I already asked them about the pin outs and they supplied me the info for the AT899. The marketing director at AT and I were both in each other's wedding parties. Our sons are best friends.

I am going to wire an older AT899(cW) for a Sennheiser G4 3.5mm. Am I correct that I connet the Mic (white) to the tip and tie the Bias(red) and ground to both the ring and sleeve?

The H5 not as goods the F6, but probably not enough to justify replacing it. I would work with what you got and save up for a Sound Devices.

It’s all Psychohistory, my friend. I am looking forward to the rise of Hari Seldon.