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RunAndGun

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  • Location
    NC
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    Freelance Cameraman
  • Interested in Sound for Picture
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  1. First time I saw it a couple of years ago, I thought it was a pretty good idea, but I'm guessing it must not have been a good seller, as its been discontinued.
  2. Appreciate the recommendation. I have something similar(maybe even stronger?), UNI-SOLVE adhesive remover, which is made by Smith & Nephew, as well(I have a very small, wearable, disposable medical device that pretty much requires this to remove it). Soaked it down and let it sit for a while and scrubbed it, too. Nothing. The problem is, none of the adhesive removers can get to the actual adhesive.
  3. I’m presuming you’re using the Sync E’s with a dslr or similar that doesn’t have dedicated timecode in/out and you’re just laying an audible TC track to one of the cameras audio tracks. With the Track E’s, they are single channel recorders and TC is metadata in the file. Just like with a camera or mixer/audio recorder with dedicated timecode. I’ve never edited on Resolve, so I don’t know if you have to tell it where to look for TC and if you’re telling it to interpret it from an audio track, if that means it will ONLY try to do it that way with everything and you then have to switch it back-and-forth depending on the TC source.
  4. If you need to use wireless and a Track E(US/US version), call Remote Audio/Trew Audio. It took a little trial and error, but they built me custom splitter cables so that I can split my lav’s to simultaneously feed my Lectro belt packs and Track E’s. I actually like this more than if the headphone jack wasn’t disabled, because for me, the wireless feed is the primary and the local recording on the Track E would be only as an OMG back-up. So doing it this way, you are (more or less) getting the straight, unadulterated sound/signal from the lav to the transmitter, instead of going through a device that is effecting the quality of the signal, since it’s coming back out of a headphone jack.
  5. Had to be tested a few weeks ago for a shoot and the Dr. I use when I’m responsible for getting tested on my own(i.e: bill it back to the production) wanted to give me an antibody test as a courtesy(I had gotten my second shot almost exactly a month prior). She said it’s similar to a rapid CV test, in that it only takes about 10 mins or so(but you’re using blood from a finger stick, instead of a nasal swab). After only about a minute she looked at me and said, “Oh yeah, you’re good”, which made me feel good. Now the million dollar question... How long are we really going to be producing effective antibodies? And how much is it going to vary by individual?
  6. Yes. That’s pretty easy(L & R TA3 to single 5-pin “stereo” XLR). Remote/Trew can knock that out, no problem(I’ve had them build custom cables with left & right TA3 cables to feed out of SR receivers to way more “unconventional” single connections than that). I think they may be caught-up now. They were running about a month out on custom jobs, when I had some cables built a little while back, because of a big order they already had.
  7. I discovered this by accident YEARS ago with a Sony 77, check the top of the lav(the cap) and make sure it is screwed on completely. I had one that had gotten loose and I thought I had a bad lav or cable or connection.
  8. I reached out to Denecke and they replied quickly and said the backlighting is actually attached to the faceplate. It is only one cable that has to be unplugged/replugged to the circuit board inside, but you only get one shot at lining up the face plate, though, because of the adhesive tape that is used to attach it to the aluminum chassis.
  9. That was part of the reason Glen jumped-in on the project after the initial build/trial & error. When they originally built them, it wasn’t useable, because the signal level dropped so much, and when you gained it up enough to get a good level, it was very noisy. But Glen and the crew put their noses to the grind stone and figured something out. He said you can see a drop on a scope, but virtually nothing to the ear and was happy with the results(which I guess is saying something). And after listening myself, I was happy enough with the results to give the go ahead to build them “for real”. Two reason: 1) The version sold in the US has the headphone out disabled when recording starts(I have no idea how this somehow infringes on (presumably) a Zax patent and would love for someone to explain it, because it seems like complete bull plop). 2) I don’t consider the headphone out a great source to feed a wireless transmitter. Who knows what is happening to the signal between the lav and the headphone out. The wireless being recorded in the bag and/or in camera is still primary and needs to remain as high a quality as possible. I would only use the “local” recording as a back-up.
  10. Three isn’t currently that important to me. I would actually put two in front of one. I currently have a workaround for one, if I need it. Remote Audio/Trew Audio built me some custom cables(Glen actually got in there when they were having a hard time getting them to work and figured it out) to split my lav’s to simultaneously feed my Lectro belt packs and Track E recorders. Not quite as elegant as a self-contained, all-in-one pack, but it’s not completely in-elegant, either. I’m sure hell would freeze over before Lectro would license “record & transmit” from Zax. I’ve also read that some of those patents are up within the next four to five years. And some of the newer fully digital Lectro belt pack and plug-on Tx’s already have 24-bit/48khz, TC jammable recording capabilities. I’m sure it’s just a simple firmware update to give those new Tx’s the ability to transmit and record simultaneously.
  11. Well, I can attest to even the industrial strength Goo Gone and Goof Off being safe, at least on the plastic/acrylic face of a slate. Nothing is working to remove the leftovers of this label. The way that the label came apart, the adhesive is for all intents and purposes hermetically sealed to the acrylic, as impossible as that may seem(I've been using P-Touch labels for almost 25 years and I've never seen anything like this, at least with a label that was on something for such a short time period). It's not sticky on the surface. It's covered by an incredibly thin layer of film that pulled off of the label. I even tried the hairdryer and razor blade, and as I feared, I gouged the face of the slate, but was still unable to remove anything. I guess I'll reach out to Denecke tomorrow and see how much a replacement face is. I presume it's just held on by some type of adhesive or double-sided tape.
  12. People like this aggravate the hell out of me. I say this as a cameraman and owner/operator with hundreds of thousands of dollars in equipment: If your camera requires something other than full-sized 3-pin XLR or BNC connections for audio and TC, then it is YOUR responsibility to own or otherwise provide the necessary cables, if the camera needs to receive either one (or both) of those two things. Period. Full Stop.
  13. Looks like you can upload pics, again.
  14. Here, you can see that the label itself is gone. The best way to describe it is a super thin layer of film bonded to the adhesive and protecting the adhesive from being dissolved while also being so thin/such a low profile that it's impossible to scrape anything away(there is no "edge" like if a normal label was on there)(the picture actually makes it look thicker than it is). I'm working the next two days, so it may be Sunday before I get a chance to take a hairdryer and razor blade to it. I'll let y'all know what happens. *Edit* I guess the new security on the forum is preventing images from being uploaded directly from users computers. I keep getting an unknown server error(error code -200).
  15. Didn’t read your links, but I remember when this happened at the US Embassy in Cuba(Havana). I believe it also happened at a US embassy in China.
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