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Ian Berman

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  • Location
    New York
  • About
    Production sound mixer, post engineer, interactive audio for games & music
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Yeah, the sagging away from body thing happens to me with my MP10 and Stingray Junior X. I just velcro the MP10 to the bottom side of the bag directly, and don't use the velcro loops, since they're fastened in the middle of the bag, not the bottom. I have my wireless receivers at the top side of the main compartment so hanging the MP10 in the middle of the compartment would be odd. The MP10 mostly sticks to the bag in the middle area but doesn't quite hold onto the velcro on the sides, as it curves outwards against my body. It's a little annoying, but it's still very securely held by the velcro. If anyone has an idea of how to improve the rigidity of the bag (to keep it rectangular rather than bending out against my body), it would solve a minor annoyance... FWIW I've found that having both wireless pouches filled at the top side of the bag helps with rigidity for whatever reason, so even if I only need one or two wires I keep an extra receiver up there, rather than having an SRc on one side or the other and taking the other one out to save weight.
  2. If you need a wireless hop and a timecode generator, though, it might make sense. Seems like it would take up less space than the G3 and tentacle sync e that I currently put on the camera, plus it wouldn't eat up spectrum from talent's wireless. However the fact that it uses a rechargeable battery kind of kills that idea -- on long shoot days you'd need to buy extra units and swap them out instead of just change AA's.
  3. I owned a $40 talentcell battery for my F4 and it powered it all day with multiple phantom powered mics, no problem. I believe Curtis Judd mentions it in one of his videos, and many others reference it online, too. I have since upgraded to a MixPre 10t with an inspired energy 98wh battery and BDS, and IMO anything less than that is a bit of a half measure (I cannot speak for a USB c battery with the MP6 but you can always tape down the connector if you're worried about it). If your use case stays the same, the Zoom and Talentcell will do a perfectly sufficient job at significantly less cost, and to me seems like the far better value. The only issue is that if you want more complex setups in the future for different types of gigs, your kit is a bit less versatile. As others have mentioned, I would not stress about the difference in sound quality between the F6 and MP6. I have not personally compared the automixer on both devices, but I have watched Judd's video, which appeared pretty comprehensive... If you think the Zoom automixer function is not sufficient for your work, only you can make that decision
  4. My 2c -- I do dialogue recording & urban ambience recording for films & ads in New York City. I own a Rode NTG3 and would not really consider using it on its own for recording urban ambiences and soundscapes here in New York. (I have not used more expensive shotgun microphones for this purpose so I can't really comment on them) To my ear, for recording individual sound sources, the NTG3 is OK if it's a quiet environment. And it can sometimes complement a stereo recording well. But as I said, I do not like to use it most of the time. I've attached an example of what an urban soundscape sounds like on the NTG3 vs a pair of LOM mikrousi omni mics -- I happened to record a soundscape with both of them this past Saturday morning in the East Village. Take a listen and decide for yourself! Generally speaking, I would try to rent equipment first and decide which microphone polarity and recording setup you find most pleasing. Or at least find comparison recordings online. Some of the most common ones are (cardiod) XY, ORTF; (omni) spaced pair; (shotgun/fig8) M/S; etc etc.. Each one requires different mics and will provide more or less pleasing results in different environments. There is also the possibility of just getting a Sony D100. And as others have mentioned, excellent wind protection is just as important as a good microphone. ambience_NYC_microusi.wav ambience_NYC_NTG3.wav
  5. Just stumbled across this topic. I recently had the same thing happen to me, almost exactly. 2 weeks after purchasing a pre 10t ii, barely even used, that part fell off. No damage to headphone jack on my mdr7506’s. SD said it wasn’t under warranty at first and eventually acquiesced after a few emails back and forth. see my topic here: https://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/37180-mixpre-10t-headphone-jack-replacement/&tab=comments#comment-381472 Gotham sound ended up ordering the replacement part and fixing it for free, with a quicker turnaround than shipping it back to SD — but I certainly hope that this does not happen again!
  6. I did contact SD, they offered to fix it if I shipped it back to them, but 2 weeks + cost of insured shipping makes me think I should get it done locally or try to DIY if it's simple. I live in New York and can get it repaired at Gotham Sound or another repair house. Sent over the same photos to them and waiting on a quote. It may be PC mount based on these photos, but I'm not really sure. Attached is the only resource I can find online for a look at the internals: Internal-Photos-3635481.pdf
  7. Hi everyone, I just bought the mixpre 10t ii last week, and on my first shoot (which got canceled before it even began, no less) I somehow managed to shear off the exterior of the headphone connector. No idea how this happened, and my headphone's 1/8" jack is not bent or damaged either. See the attached photos. SD offered to fix it, but I won't have a recorder for 2 weeks and would have to pay for inbound shipping. They alternatively offered to send me a replacement part, but were specific in not being able to offer guidance on how to DIY the repair, which is understandable. Rather than take it to a reseller for repair and spend ~$75-150, I was wondering how simple this would be to DIY. I'm honestly not too great at soldering, but I've made simple circuits with arduinos and the like before, and I've built a couple desktop computers. Wondering if anyone here has experience with a repair like this and can offer guidance, as I don't see many resources online. Thanks!
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