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Freeheel

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About Freeheel

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  1. I would totally agree, David, except the one time I did record barnacles opening was 5 am on the North Coast of British Columbia, foggy, no wind, waves or swell. Occasional birds. The closest thing to a silent beach I have ever heard. (But I take your point as well. A bit of a rarity) Cheers, Brent Calkin
  2. My experience is the same as Trey. My Schoeps is marginally noisier than my 50, though not enough to notice in a dialogue situation. But if I'm recording the sound of barnacles opening on a silent beach, I'm going to be using my 50... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  3. I have a couple from the '80's that have serial numbers in the 28000, so if they are consecutive in any way, yours could be fairly old. (not sure how the serial numbering works for 416's) Mine has 3 of the round things on the circuit board, so 2 shouldn't be unusual. The "messiness" of the circuit board looks similar to mine, though mine has a significantly different layout. (Mine is also a T power to 48 PH convert, so all circuit layout bets are off anyway) Mine has the white fibre stuffed in the end. The machining looks similar to mine. My nose piece is way more concave, yours looks quite flat. I can't really say yeah or nay on it... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  4. Freeheel

    SRa: sandtraps?

    Is this a specific SRA or are you asking generally? Many SRAs were upgraded to SRBs because Lectro offered a very generous upgrade path. The ones that were done in the States should have been laser etched with upgrade markings. For those done in other markets, you'll have to rely on the seller's documentation. Cheers, Brent Calkin
  5. Get a 50. And treat the room with some sound absorbent material- as even better microphones do not make reverberation go away. The 416 is definitely not a good indoor mic, and though I have not used one, the 8060 is also an interference tube mic, and though it will likely sound better than the 416, it is also not the ideal tool for use indoors. Cheers, Brent Calkin
  6. I like my 744t as well, and haven't tried to get rid of it. I kept it as my M/S machine as well, although the ease of routing for ISOs and iPhone entering Metadata has meant that my MixPre 10t is taking over that job... You can make the 7xx series fail. If you let the hard drive get more than 90% full, you can have a "Slow Media" record failure that can also take out the files on your CF card !!! Not a happy moment, when you realize that this has happened. The CF is not a failsafe media for the Hard drive... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  7. For a microphone cable that will see coiling and uncoiling, I'd recommend the Mogami. The individual balanced strands seem fragile, but I've got 20 year old Mogami Stereo balanced cable that is still fine. Canare, as Doug mentioned, is even more bombproof but doesn't handle nearly as nicely. I'd be a little wary of that particular Belden cable as a mic cable. It is designed for fixed installations, where the cable is only flexed once or twice when installing and then never moves again. It uses a foil shield that will break down if used as a run and gun stereo mic cable, which makes it's lifespan of RF resistance much shorter. Also as the foil breaks down, it will change capacitance when it's moved, which can cause crackly audio artifacts. Cheers, Brent Calkin
  8. Check the capacitor that connects the antenna to the circuit board- if the antenna gets hit, it can crack the cap which can make it intermittent and give you a result similar to what you are describing. Cheers, Brent Calkin.
  9. Yes, indeed. Thank you Martin.
  10. A few points about the tubular style battery holders with the teeth that shred the outer casing of the battery. The reason I use them, despite their destructive nature, is 'cause they are way more convenient to grab a single battery with one hand, while moving fast on a doc shoot- I can't use a battery case with a lid that holds 4 batteries- that's a recipe for 3 batteries on the ground and one in my hand... Also they are great for showing you which batteries are charged or not depending on which end is stuck in the case. But they sure make a mess of the wimpy plastic sheath that rechargeable batteries are wrapped in... which can lead to dead shorting batteries in some (badly designed) metal lined battery compartments, or, more likely, bits of plastic sheath covering the end terminal and interrupting current flow, or just bunching up and making it hard or bloody impossible to get the batteries out of the device they are in. To deal with the problem of the jaggedy battery tube: First, you can dremel or cut the "tooth" to be smoother and not as big or abrasive- be careful about cutting too much off, since it will let the battery fall out. This lets you do the one handed battery change, although it is still possible to do damage to the battery over time, 'cause there is still some friction. The other trick is to bend up the "tooth" (which is on a flexible tab) with a fingernail of the opposite hand that is grasping the battery while inserting or extracting it. It's not too difficult, though it takes away the ability to do a one handed battery exchange. This is the way I do it when changing batteries in a non hurried fashion at the beginning of the day or lunch... These might be super obvious tricks to some of you all- but it took me a while to figure them out, and a lot of damaged battery casings, so I though I'd share, especially since it's often the tiny things that can make a big difference... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  11. Short answer- All things with lithium batteries, as well as loose lithium batteries, should be hand carried into the cabin. No battery quantity restrictions if they are under 100 watt hours. All loose batteries should have their contacts taped or otherwise protected from shorting. All fragile things that will stop your shoot if they get lost or delayed in checked baggage should be in the hand carried into the cabin. Make sure you pack your carry on so that it's not too dense for the scanner- or that you can easily separate the contents. Boom pole might get rejected at security so put it in checked luggage along with everything else that you trust can take a 5 foot drop onto concrete. Keep Cheers, Brent Calkin
  12. In the first 2 weeks of my 633's first film shoot, there were 9 glitches- they all happened on day 4 of shooting and had pretty random groupings with 2 glitches on 1 take, 4 glitches on another, 1 glitch apiece on two more takes, and 3 glitches on another take. I was using Lexar Professional 64 GB 400X speed SD cards and Sandisk Extreme CF cards- Both were approved media at the time. Both types of media had the glitches in the exact same spot, when I put the files up on Protools.... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  13. With the Mini series, Arri is obviously trying to beat RED for the title of "weirdest, most changeable, and most annoying audio inputs" ever found on a camera. At least the LF mini has the input in the back side rather than in the front face where an audio plugin interferes with the lens mounts... Cheers, Brent Calkin
  14. Hi Palmer, the static noise on the file that you describe, is similar to what happened to my 633 when it was very new. Occasional random white noise spikes simultaneously across all channels of the audio files, with no indication while monitoring the original recording. In my case it showed up on both the SD and CF cards, which were both recording 48k 24bit. SD said it was an intermittent problem in the main digital bus and quickly replaced my entire mixer with a new one. (it was under warranty at the time) Terrifying problem- I'm glad I've never seen it again on my newer 633. Cheers, Brent Calkin
  15. When my 633 was new I had a sporadic issue where the main digital audio bus would randomly and intermittently fail and send white noise spikes into the audio files. On both recording media. There was no indication in headphones that this was happening, nor did it show up in the outputs. I was informed about the problem by the assistant editor who was syncing dailies. I've always done a split boom/lavs track to camera via a high quality radio. Having that good pair of tracks on the camera allowed most of those noise spikes to be repaired. Cheers, Brent Calkin
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