rich

i have had no luck whatsoever in trying to cut away the insulation of the individual conductors of a COS11 before soldering. which is probably entirely down to not having a proper insulation cutter, and instead using a blade and carefully trying to only cut the insulation. what i have been doing for many years instead, is getting a blob of solder onto the tip of the iron, and pushing the wire through that to burn away the insulation and tin the wire. the trick is to not take too long otherwise you will burn it, and the conductor inside will fall off. it takes a bit of practice, but if you are confident with a soldering iron, and have the right shaped tip for the iron (i think i have a 2.3mm chisel tip) this will work.

might not be made by Lemo then. perhaps a copy instead.

just making sure you dont make the mistake i once made.

with that kind of thing, i wouldnt guess. if there is a part number, Lemo will be able to tell you what it is. places like Mouser charge quite a big mark up on Lemo, compared to what getting direct from Lemo would cost. but you need to hit the minimum order value. also, im not sure if anything you order from Mouser is warehoused outside the US. i think that stuff i have ordered from them in the past has shipped from the states. but its entirely possible i am wrong about this, but could explain the €20 shipping. the last letter of the first 3 (FSB, FHG...) denotes the keying (number of notches on the outside of the connector, which need to match with what you are plugging into) if you look on the outside of the shell, you should be able to see the part number etched into it most power connectors i have encountered are G keying https://www.lemo.com/pdf/FSG.0B.302.CLAD32.pdf here is what i could find of the angled B keying as an example https://www.lemo.com/pdf/FSB.0B.304.CLAD52Z.pdf the FSG connectors are about 5 times more expensive than the straight connectors

you should be able to buy, if not the individual pin, then the insert the pins are part of. (i have done so from Lemo UK in the past) try contacting Lemo directly https://www.lemo.com/en/contact though they may have a minimum order amount.

i think that the lower the squelch value, the lower the signal present has to be in order for the receiver to unmute. i am on the minimum setting with mine. if its too high the audio can get choppy at the edge of range, but not necessarily prevent the pops, splats and hiss you also get.

the mono and stereo pilot tone is different. (i dont know about the pilot tone between the 100, 300 and 500, but i would guess it doesnt change there) my cart rig i have two of the half rack transmitters, which i use in mono mode. i'll have to double check tomorrow, but i believe that in order to get it to work, i have to have pilot tone turned off on the receivers. i use it that way, so that if i have to use my bag rig with the SK100 tx, i dont need to change any settings on all the receivers that may have been handed out.

you're welcome. most of the common mics we use have a similar EQ curve to create that effect.

i used to have a KMR81 way way back when (it was my first shotgun mic) when i had a CMIT as well, they sounded tonally almost exactly the same (supposedly, the KMR81 was what schoeps were aiming for with the sound of their shotgun mic) but has a bit less rejection of off axis sound. it could also be a little susceptible to RFi. i dont recall if i ever used it with the Zaxcom TRX700 i had as my ownership of the two may not have been at the same time, but it did get caught out by some fluorescent lights at one particular location. i think the KMR81 will sound great pretty much anywhere you'd care to use it, unless your location is very noisy.

it isnt soldered. its two bare ends (i probably tinned them) screwed into the green connector on the side. its not ideal for sure, but hasnt failed yet.

it does look the same. it has a green connector on the side that you screw the bare ends of your power cable into. i did have a look, and didnt think there was enough space inside so that i could fit a Hirose socket.

i have one of these on my cart https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09HGWLZSD/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1W5E1W8ZX0BD7&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR0LHrzK-G1KD2tHbrS1OqQa0_fxPQ6FxeXnht42-x19PGm7VgYv9kQM0ws though i am sure you can find it on the Belgian Amazon site. i have had no issues with it so far. powers my Glensound speaker and I/O boxes just fine. but, i have had it connected after my A10 racks (Scorpio » A10 rack » A10 rack » linovision router » anything else that needs Dante) rather than have it as the hub that everything else is connected to.

i am guessing that if the camera base rate is 25fps, then 50 fps goes at double speed. i dont know the camera settings well enough to know wether it is possible to set its base rate to 50fps, so that on playback 50 frames takes 1 second, which i am thinking is what you are talking about. i do not understand why. that is well beyond my knowledge level, and what i am prepared to try and understand. i wonder if projects like the Hobbit, which they filmed at 48fps hadnt looked so odd to moviegoers, the situation might be different, and there would have been more urgency to develop a new SMPTE standard for the higher framrates.

ok then. is there a camera that when set to 50fps that will allow incoming timecode to see if those settings on the betso will work? what is the difference between the 2x multiplied rate of the betso at 25fps and 50fps? does it behave like an Alexa mini when you put it to 50fps, and the timecode runs twice as fast?

my poorly educated guess is that there is no SMPTE standard for it yet. i dimly remember reading some time ago that there was an updated standard being drawn up by SMPTE, but cant help any more than that. i believe that the Betso sync boxes have settings for framerates above 30fps, as ive seen that setting on mine. but i have never used it as i always have them synced to my SD recorder.

Hi Derek. i did notice whilst testing that when the voltages were similar, there was indeed still some current draw from both inputs. i wasnt able to adjust the voltage on either input to see what difference there needed to be to get no current draw on one input. but that is why i have gone for a power supply about 2v higher than the max voltage of my battery. with the 15v power supply, and my battery fully charged, there is no load on my battery. i first built my box with Schottky diodes as well, though have now switched to an ideal diode board, which generate a lot less heat, and have less of a voltage drop. i got some 15A ones for solar panels which are working well.

Hi Osa. I have made a power distro box for my cart which has two inputs. one has a battery connected, and the second has a mains power supply. both inputs go through diodes to prevent each input seeing the other. current is drawn from the input with the highest voltage. so i have gotten myself a 15v mains supply as my Life battery only gets to 13.2. its a seamless swap between the two. so if i lose mains, there is no interruption. if you are using LiPo batterys - NP1s and the like, you will need an 18v power supply, otherwise your NP1s will discharge until they get to the voltage of the mains supply and stop there. in my bag rig, i have a Hawkwoods NPD-8s which i bought because it had two inputs. though i tend to use two batteries on that for the run time, as if im using the bag rig, i need to be mobile, so mains isnt really an option. https://www.hawkwoods.co.uk/Sound/P/NPD-8S if you are planning on making something yourself, send me a message and i'll let you know how i made my power distro.

on my cart, i use 2x A10 racks. the racks weigh 3.6Kg each before i put the receivers in. and one Nexus will replace both of them. i'm not thinking of using a Nexus in my bag rig for the moment.

if you remove the built antenna, put an SMA connector on, and attach a whip to that SMA, you will be about the same as you were before. it shouldnt increase or decrease your range significantly. but now you have the option to use remote and higher gain antennas.

the D was released to update the mic so it was shielded against digital rfi. mics with silver serial numbers could pick up a hiss when used with digital radio mics.

im pretty sure that is the case. also, in case you werent aware, the red bit underneath the serial number means that it is a low sensitivity version.

is the serial number sticker gold (it looks it, but its hard to be sure from the photo)? if so then its most likely a D. otherwise, get in contact with the distributor, and they should be able to help you out.

i have never fitted resistors for ZMT input cables. it could (but may not) be one of two things. pin 1 is not connected to the shell of the Lemo the cable is not wired balanced it could also be a poorly shielded cable type. sometimes it is worth paying those extra $$$s for the piece of mind of knowing that the cables you rely on work exactly as you expect. buy once, cry once etc etc.

fgg.0b.305.clad42 the d42 bit tells you the type of end at the cable and cable diameter. if you want the longer body connector for some reason, swap the first F for a J. here are loads of options if you have a lot of time to kill. https://web.lemo.com/PartSearch?app=&mat=&ref=fgg.0b.305&lang=en

i had an old COS11 that had been a bit damaged so i hadn't sold it when i sold all my others, so i thought it wouldn't hurt to try it on 12v. turned out it was fine, even though the spec says 3-10v. its been my slate mic for quite a few years now, and hasnt gotten any more broken than it was before.