Matt Morris

You can adapt with Neutrik barrel adapters if it's a temp thing. NA3M5F or NA3F5M. The latter is labelled as for DMX use but is wired right (as far as I can remember).

Not yet...

Hi Tyler, Well..... we've finalised the code and schematic but hit delays with enclosure design and PCB printing. We're both kind of learning as we go with this kind of stuff, and trying to get it done while being busy with the day job and having kids etc. is proving difficult. We've both been pretty busy over the last few months with the run up to Christmas but I'm hoping to look back over this in the new year when things are a bit quieter. Thanks, Matt.

Hello Axel, Thanks! Yes, we're still working on this box and hope to get it finished at some point soon. Mat and I are both recordists and have been tied up doing the "day job" for the past few months, it's the busy season for work in the UK at the moment. We'll definitely keep any developments updated here (and elsewhere). Thanks, Matt.

Hi Philip, The unit (still to be named) is still very much in development at the moment. We're using the Tascam sync protocol in an unconventional way which by it's nature is designed to sync settings and rtc between units. We've worked around this by giving our unit the ability to read and store "master" settings to be transmitted between units, but unless I can think of a workaround the bias, gain, LF cut settings etc will be written as part of an IR "sync". I've not been working on it for a few weeks (the day job has taken over), but I have a feeling that filenames aren't part of the sync - so you may get your wish on that front anyway. Watch this space! Yes, we did think about a smartphone solution and am in agreement with Mat. I do like the convenience of just using something that is almost always in my pocket, but first of all the IR mechanics aren't quite as easy as with the "universal remote" solutions out there for smartphones suggested above. There's also the question of getting LTC into a phone while transmitting IR via a dongle... maybe a split in/out "y" TRRS cable with an IR transceiver on one leg and a BNC socket on the other? Sounds messy doesn't it? It's got me thinking though. Cheers, Matt.

I've done the same, and as Ryan said, I installed an isolating DC to DC converter in my homemade BDS. Check out the XP Power JCA1012S12. You could just fit it into a small box and wire in series with the batt eliminator.

I had a very strange issue with a new 664 whereby the noise floor would raise significantly when the HPF circuit was switched in. I could also hear (in low frequency "bumps") data being written to the cards, again only when the HPF was enabled. I thankfully had the unit replaced as it was pretty much brand new but wondered if it was a similar problem that the OP was having.

Does the noise floor change whether you click the HPF in/out on the open channel? I had a very odd noise floor problem on a new 664 which switched in with the HPF.

Always interested to see your projects Tom. I built my own V-lock mounting solution out of an old battery but it looks pretty "ghetto" compared to your work.... Where did you get hold of the "male" mounting plate (to which your enclosure is attached)? I looked for something similar but couldn't find one, hence using an old battery.

I tried setting up a RPi in AP mode and found it to be a bit of a nightmare. I was using RaspBMC which isn't a typical Linux distro and I'm not too experienced with Linux anyway so you might have better luck. Other that that I'm not sure that the RPi is there for critical production use, having the OS running from an SD card and powering via a flimsy micro USB are definite weak points. I've toyed with the idea of trying to set up an IEM system with a RPi as the source, streaming to iOS devices but would be wary of using it on anything other than that.

Hi, the unit takes 5v power via a micro (or maybe mini?) USB connector. It comes with a mains transformer but if you're running from 12v you could get hold of something like this: http://bluecowcables.com/product.php?id_product=128 or even build something yourself using a regulator like this: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw050

I have the TP Link nano router - http://uk.tp-link.com/products/details/?model=TL-WR702N It's tiny, cheap and runs off a 5v usb supply. I have it set up in my car as an access point for a Raspberry Pi media centre. Range is pretty decent, I can access it from upstairs in my house when it's parked outside. The firmware is pretty buggy though although it is updated on the tplink website regularly.

I've heard really great things about Equator Audio D5s. I'm planning on buying the larger version (D8) for my post prod setup.

Didn't think they were that expensive. I found the smaller one for £60 for sale in the UK (around $90) but yes it's considerably more than the eBay batts so see your point.

I've had some experience with the Chinese lithium batteries on eBay. I was considering using one for this purpose but the one I've got seems pretty iffy when it comes to charging and I'm not to sure about its capacity either. There seems to be a few of these types of units on the market at the moment, geared mostly towards smartphone users. I've found some Energizer ones will give out 12v on a DC socket as well as 5v on a USB socket. The small one has an 8000mAh capacity and the larger one 18000mAh. The large one will supply 16-20v on a third socket too. http://www.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/products/xp8000a/index.html http://www.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/products/xp18000a/index.html Bit more expensive than the eBay options though....

Here's something else I was working on with a similar idea of exposing the Cos11 head, made with Sugru and moleskin. Bit rough and a bit bulky though. Similar I guess to the new LMC mount, but without the furry fabric.

Just tested this method again today. No changes to the Cos11's directionality, it's as omni as it ever was, picking up head turns the same as before. If you have the mic pushed up far into the straw and have the "poking out" section quite short, the straw simply acts as a method of keeping the button hole consistently open enough to expose the mic head. The ability to stuff some colour matched fabric into the straw opening helps with wind noise and further masks its appearance too. This is something I struggle with when using the B6. The head can then be protected from rubbing noise at the rear (chest side) by using moleskin and sticking the placket together. I've found that while this method stops rubbing noise from the mic brushing against the shirt, it doesn't help with noise generated from the shirt rubbing over the chest when walking etc. I've found the best method to deal with this is by sticking bigger patch of moleskin between the chest and the inside of the shirt, stuck where the mic head is located.

I hadn't noticed when I tested it out earlier, although I wasn't specifically listening out for it tbh.

I've tried this a few times and find that the mic head still brushes against the shirt as the button is "pushing back" on it. Makes the back of the mic point into the chest too.

Yeah, I did have it a bit longer at first and noticed the "tunnelling" was reduced when I trimmed it down. The plan is to have it long and trim it down to the shortest possible size after rigging it in the shirt. Obviously depends on the type of shirt/buttons etc.

Thanks Eric. There is a slight "tunneling" sound but I was expecting it to be a lot worse, it's acceptable IMO. Similar to the sound that you get when pushing the Cos11 into the RM1 rubber mount.

Like lots of recordists, I struggle when micing up people wearing shirts. Avoiding scratching and rustling can be really difficult. I'm a big fan of the "hide in plain sight" method using a Countryman B6 through a button hole, but find the sound of the mic itself a bit hit and miss. I've been trying to figure out a way to do the same with a Cos11. Simply poking it straight up doesn't work too well and the angle created makes the rear of the head stick out into the chest. I tried using a cut up piece of a right angled straw today and it worked surprisingly well. Seems to create a bit of a peak in the upper-mid frequencies but nothing too drastic. It's worth it to negate the scratching anyway. Best thing is the mic head stays straight up and can be taped unobtrusively on to the inside of the shirt using moleskin or similar. You can even poke some bits of fabric into the front of the straw for some wind protection.

Thanks André, yeah the IDX was a Lithium and I was just generally careful when taking it apart. Didn't use a Dremel or power tools to cut the case, just a Stanley knife quite close to the bracket side. The actual cells and circuit board were on the other side, closest to the back of the battery so I didn't have to go anywhere near them fortunately. The tricky part was mounting the MDF plate to the battery bracket. Luckily there were 4 existing lugs that I could tap a thread into. After that it was just a case of trying to finish off and make it look tidy (which is still a work in progress!)

I messed around with different mounting methods for a while. When not in cam hop mode, I use my rx in my bag in a petrol pouch so modified it so it could be attached to different cameras quickly and easily. Drilled a hole in the centre of the pouch buckle, tapped a thread and glued a nut underneath: Now the pouch can be mounted on a camera hotshoe using an adapter: I also made a V-Lock mount by gutting an old IDX battery. It can be piggy backed on to V-Lock batteries that have a female attachment. Managed to track down some of the Mod-U-Lox buckles that Petrol use on their pouches from here: http://www.ahh.biz/hardware/miscellaneous/ The MDF finish isn't too pretty at the moment so I'm planning to spray it black. Does the job though.

Like I said, I use my AT208 + CS3 to add width to my atmos sound and it works great.