matadams

Appears to be more than a re-brand!

The only test I have personally completed with a DR10s rolling for a long run was the day I first got them. I was testing a clap-sync workflow using a sound devices machine to produce TC accurate recordings of the start and end claps, then manually syncing in an NLE to attempt to create a multitrack tc WAV. The two DR10s rolled for five and a half hours and in relation to the SD recording one was longer by two frames and one was longer by three frames.

Perhaps it could be implemented in smartphone app, I don't know, but I personally prefer the idea of a dedicated unit that you put batteries in and it works, regardless if you're phones updates its OS since you last used it or you've lost your IR dongle Well doen Jeff, you've earned your gold star (or whatever it is they give you) this month with your Zaxom endorsement ;-) I would really prefer this not to descend into the usual squabbling feeling that both products have their place. I also have ZFR recorders which I think are superb! Also, the 'back of the beer mat' costs change hugely when you look into buying multiple units. Thanks everyone one for the positive comments!

Hi Jeff, to be honest I don't really know, looking into production costs and quantities is the next step but would hope that it will be somewhere between £100 and £200. Mat.

Thought I'd share something I'm working on with fellow recordist Matt Morris here in the UK. It's a timecode solution for the Tascam DR10 beltpack recorder which allows accurate syncing of the records internal clock which it uses to stamp its bWAV files.

MTP40S has additional anti-intermod electronics and a limiter compared to MTP41. Older MTP40 has the anti-intermod but no limiter.

Thanks All. Mat.

Im curious how this works, does anyone know whats inside? Is it a glorified adapter or are there components inside providing isolation between the headphone inputs such as transformers?

Ive just been looking for a shallow sliding rack shelf to fit the 10.7" depth of the SKB shallow cases. I couldnt find anythig and think im goingo to have to modify my existing full depth one steel shelf.

Hi Malcolm, I upgraded to an SSD in my 744T a few years ago as i do a fair amount of work involving extensive travel and was taken in by thepotential additional robustness. I used a Sandisk SSD using the XLSATA adapter but had some issues and changed to a Kingston SSD upon recomendation by SD support. Since then no problems and very glad i made the swap. Thread on the SD forum with more detail here :- http://forums.sounddevices.com/forum/-7-series-digital-audio-recorders/general-hardware-and-operation/2883-744t-garbled-and-thin-audio-output-intermittent-fault Mat Adams.

+1 for what Stuart said. As the owner MTP40's and struggling with unpredictable dynamics in the sphere of documentary, i'm hopeful Wisycom will be offering some sort of buy-back or upgrade scheme through their dealers so i can change get the anticipated 's'model with limiters.

Any indications yet when this will be available to buy in Europe?

I rewired all my lav mics earlier this year with the small 3 pin lemo connectors used by the likes of Zaxccom, Wisycom and professiojnal Sennheiser gear. They really are very tricky, i tried it hung over one day and had to come back to it; its like soldering onto pin heads which are less than a pin heads distance appart from each other. I believe there is a choice of connectors available, one being screw and one being push-pull. I went for the screw on and bought them direct form Lemo UK along with strain relief boots and some spare (non reusable) crimp-on collets. Some people get by without a proper tool to screw the crimp-on collet into the connector body; using tweezers or such like. I made a tool out of an old screwdirver by cutting a notch in it using a thin angle grinder disc. If your going to be doing a couple or more of these connectors buy or make a tool, dont scimp on this, it will save you time, not frey your patience and allow you to concentrate on the cable prep and soldering. The crimp on ferrules supplied as standard witht the connectors were the perfect size for the cable diameter of my COS-11's but were too big for the cables on my B6's. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink to size up which had the added benifit of additiona strain relief. By far the trickiest thing after the soldering itself is preparing the cable properly. The cable on a COS11 is hellish, the conductors are wound with some sort of nylon strands for strength and the outer insulation melts very easily. You have to prepare to a high level of precision as there is very little space between the solder terminals and the collet where the outer insulation of the lav is cut. Like all soldeing jobs the devil is in the detail, preparing everything is the biggest part of the job, the soldering, if you get it righ first time, takes seconds. You'll want a soldering iron with a very fine tip, a steady hand and possibly a mignifying glass ( i didnt but had to take off my glasses used for distance and still felt cross eyed after soldering these for an afternoon)

VHF, simple as that.

I had to do 8 of these recently so decided to make a tool out of a screwdriver. I used a very narrow gauge metal cutting disc in the angle grinder and after a bit of messing made something half decent. The actual tool from lemo is £40 but if you've got more than a couple of these connectors to do, i highly reccomend buying one, or making something similar. I also found you can buy the crimp-on collet as a seperate part (# FVG.00.160.DN). Only £0.38 each so worth ordering a few as spares as theres no way to un-crimp if you make a subsequent mistake or need to re-make the end.

Very insightful, thanks for posting Larry.

cant remember

As requested here's the part numbers from Farnell in the UK 1077705 HR10-7R-4S(73) SOCKET, PANEL, 4POLE 1082444 IPR1SAD2LOS SWITCH, ON-OFF, BLACK/RED LED 1861148 MC36248 RESETTABLE FUSE, 1.2A 4437159 1590BBK BOX, DIECAST, BLACK, 111X59X31MM You'll also need a resistor in series with each LED to lower the voltage drop across them. Rough wiring diagram below showing two channels, repeat for more.

Thanks for all the positive comments, its nice to share these things as ive been a long time lurker on both here and RAMPS back in the day and have taken inspiration and ideas from others posts in the past. I might upload some pics of my other successful projects, the unsuccessful ones never happened ~cough~! Yup, ive got a couple of the Hawk-woods cups too which work fine for a lot of stuff. I founf the switched mode regs that hawk-woods use causing me RF spray in the VHF band, however these days i only use my VHF radio mics as camera links so this is no longer an issue. I think with only four hirose outputs they were just a bit limited for todays more usual bigger bag setups and, as you say John Paul, when you come to change NP1 you have to pull a load of cable out the bag when you pull on the shoe. With this BDS i can run a single v-lovk battery in the front of my bag (back ache!), or a single np1 or pair of np1's in parallel in the back pocket between me and my mixer/recorder where the weight is best placed. I also have the flexibility of pulling the battery plug and connecting up an AC adapter should the need ever arise. Mat

I couldnt find what i needed for sale so decided to make my own. I wanted to be easily able to turn things in my bag on and off, especially off when i wasnt using them and have an led indicators for reference. The first three switches operate pairs of Hirose sockets, the last two switches operate single hirose sockets. Each switches output runs through a self resetting fuse first, if i have a short and a fuse blows, i should se straight away as the LED will go out. It works really well and im very happy with it. It is a bit big but i needed the width and depth to fit in the switches and sockets. Actuually, when you solder in there you wouldnt want it much smaller plus theres space left should i decide to develop it further, such as adding a voltage regulator for some outputs. I can post part numbers if anyone wishes to make one and save some time. Mat.

Inspired by this thread I found a half price magliner on eBay which had been used at the olympics in London. My intention is to try and retain the ability to use it for its intended purpose and save my back when loading and unloading on those days i need to use a lot of gear. I'm also going to make some modifications and additions for use as a bag cart, perhaps to be able to operate it with a rack-mount case should the need present itself in the future. First impressions, its big, perhaps too big to fit on the back seat of my car. I think i can loose a few inches off the handle and reduce the overall height of the frame, lowering the middle and top crossmembers in the process. I think i'll remove the stair sliders, dont think i'll need them and have a think about hinging or making a quick release system for the nose plate. The first job however is fabbing up a clip-on shelf which will hang from the top crossmember. I have a metal recyclers nearby who let me rummage for scrap and i found a piece of 1/8" chequer plate which will be perfect.

Yup, i know what you mean. So, anyone out there using a PAG brand NP1 charger to charge other brand Li-ion NP1's?

I dont really know what you mean by independantly in parallel. Basically use NP1 cases with xlf4f connectors on flying leads. I can connect one of them to my homebrew BDS (with an xlr4m flying lead) or i have a xlr4 Y-cord to connect both NP1 cases to the BDS simultaniously and in parallel.

I dont run anything out of the ordinary, 788, rx's, link tx's, ifb etc. Rather than one battery for the 788 and another battery for everything else I prefer to have everything running off the same supply so i can rely on the battery level reading on my 788.

Does anyone here use a Pag battery charger, specifically the AR-124NPD (https://www.paguk.com/content/pag-ar124npd-4-x-np1-4-x-pp90) and have experience of it chartging other brand Lithium battery packs, specifically Swit brand? I used to power my 788 bag rig from a lage v-lock battery but to reduce weight and help with ergonomics im now running two NP1's in parallel. Downside is, my 2 channel np1 slow charger won't charge quick enough and will only have two batteries ready if left overnight; hence, im looking at a new charger. Thanks, Mat.