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Nathaniel Robinson

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Everything posted by Nathaniel Robinson

  1. Might be nice to have some mounting hardware on the belt; for remote placement of a camera TX for example. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I went in Jon's direction for push buttons, going with pegs from the Milton Bradley classic Battleship. They work humorously well after being snipped down a bit. I love it so far. Also, I was able to charge a client's phone in the middle of a field, which will probably get me more repeat work than my audio. I'm building another for a friend to work from a P-tap.
  3. Eagerly waiting the reveal of both Orca and K-tek waist belts, which will probably be the deciding factor for my next bag purchase.
  4. Very rad! I saw him on tour for "Silver Age", the guy still kills it live.
  5. +1 for Maxx sized FP4, although without a serial port I'm not sure it's possible. While I'm dreaming, it also does my invoicing.
  6. It's a great alternative to the pistol grip! I have one now, but didn't know about it before purchasing my Rycote S-series. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. The official word is that it is not possible to retrofit new lyres on old Rode Blimp. Looks like I might be trying Watson Wu's mod: http://www.watsonwu.com/blog/2014/5/2/mini-me-rode-blimp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Very nice improvements. The weight/bulk of the pistol grip on the original was a deal breaker for me. I wonder if the conn box and Rycote lyres will retrofit on older blimps (inquiry sent to manufacturer, also speculating aloud here).
  9. No TC input on their current production cameras. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks Senator! I picked it up to play around with. I'm pretty happy with Reaper for tracking/mixing music, but have always been curious about Mixbus's approach to FX/summing. I also like that OMF import can be added with a pretty affordable plug-in (Ardour XChange for $50).
  11. There is certainly a gear nerd side of me that likes a big goofy voltage meter! But for my setup, it's a little more practical than that. My Hawkwoods BDS offers 4 switchable regulated outputs on hirose connectors, and 1 unregulated, unswitchable output on a permanently attached cable. I prefer to run all my gear from the regulated outputs, for 2 reasons. Firstly, I like the extra layer of over voltage protection. Secondly, I'm wary of using the permanent cable for anything mission critical, since repairing it in the field is a bigger pain than swapping in a spare hirose-to-hirose cable. The downside of the regulated output is that all my gear reads 12v until the bitter end. This gizmo provides a little window into remaining battery life. More of a peace-of-mind improvement than anything.
  12. Just finished a 5 day shoot with an out-of-town crew. 2 C300s, one with a SB3 and the other jammed before any OTF interview. They wouldn't pay for a second TC box or TC slate. As I'm prepping my gear to start Day 3 the DIT/assistant editor tells me that I'm "not jamming the cameras correctly and nothing is in sync". After a few seconds of poking around in Avid, we find that the problem is their nested autosequences, and nothing to do with camera TC. She (barely) apologized, but I think if it had been discovered after leaving town, she would've just thrown me under the bus, potentially ruining my reputation with a new client. So frustrating!
  13. Enclosure arrived early! Done for now. Suspect craftsmanship more apparent on closeups. I found that the USB cutout and hirose wires were sufficient to hold the PCB in place. No glue or stand-offs used. Accessing the USB power switch via a hole drilled in the enclosure is doable, but annoying. Not sure what the solution is there yet. No ground loops, practically weightless. Overall, pretty happy with it.
  14. Hmmm, not sure that bypassing the switch will change the "power on" state of the USB output. In any case, I'm avoiding work on the surface mount components, my soldering gear is just not suited for the work. Something I will be on the look out for! The new enclosure arrives in a few days. I am hoping to have a working version this weekend!
  15. More ignoring than forgetting, haha. On power up, the unit defaults to USB power off. If there is a way to change this behavior, I may settle for USB power constantly on. If not, the plan is to just drill a small hole, and use my Lectro tweaker to toggle the state.
  16. The enclosure will be the biggest obstacle; part of me wants to hot glue everything into an Altoids tin and call it a day. For the moment I am searching for a more elegant solution. Some poking around turned up this series of Hammond enclosure: http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg9TBU.htm The plastic is ideal for me, since I have little more than a Dremel to work with. I hastily ordered one...in the wrong size. JUUUUUST barely too small to accommodate the PCB. I've since ordered the 1151K-TBU, which is slightly larger in all dimensions. It should be possible to fit the hirose connector opposite the USB output. The screw terminals will be removed in favor of a hard wire to the connector. Hopefully the translucent enclosure will allow me to forgo cutting a "window" into the box. I think the display will be sufficiently bright/legible without that step. Ultimately it will be either be fitted with mod-u-lox hardware to attach to my Petrol bag, OR just velcro'd to the side of a Petrol pouch.
  17. Vin: MKH mics are a squeeze and may rub together a bit. Good thinking, an something I will look out for! The narrower diameter of the Schoeps keeps it from rubbing, while the foam offers enough compression to pin everything in place (no sliding inside case). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. It's the "Cigar Caddy 3140", which I purchased on Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007VU67O/ref=pd_aw_sbs_6/185-9196501-0962545?pi=SS115 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Sennheiser's case for the MKH20/30/40/50 is nice enough, but takes up a lot of space inside a Pelican. Same goes for my Schoeps case. While looking for a compact solution, I found this "cigar caddy"; popular with the festival taping community: It's not quite Pelican grade, but it seems to offer a snug fit and adequate protection (stored inside my pelican 1510). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. This is my new attempt to kill two birds with one stone: add a voltmeter and 5v USB output to my bag. Problem #1. I use a Hawkwoods DV-SQN4S battery distro in my bag. I power my gear (Maxx, 2x411a) from the switchable, regulated 12v outputs. For my meager power needs, I can usually get through a day with a single set of batteries. HOWEVER it would be reassuring to have some insight into remaining battery life. Problem #2. The most frequent power issue I run into is.... my iPhone. Rarely makes it through the day if I've used it for navigation to get to the shoot and if I'm using MovieSlate for sound reports. There are some nice looking hirose-to-usb options out there (http://bluecowcables.com/product.php?id_product=128), but I was hoping for a cheaper option. After a few minutes of poking around on Amazon I found this gizmo:http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Regulator-4-5-40V-Voltmeter/dp/B00IWOPS8K I wired the gizmo to the UNregulated output of the distro, and voila! USB power for my phone and a nice readout of remaining battery life at a glance. The next step will be enclosing the unit, and adding panel mount male hirose connector. Currently it is hard-wired to distro only for testing purposes. ANYWAYS not bad for $10!
  21. That is exactly what I want in a bag cart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I used the previously mentioned 695 guide (http://www.695.com/fcc/how-to-get-a-license) to complete my application. License arrived about 3 months later. Very grateful to this thread and it's participants; the white space issue would've gone under my radar completely if not for this forum!
  23. I was recently faced with a similar decision, and went with a few Sennheiser IEM. For *my* needs/clients, it is a good fit. I already carry a few sets of G3 as backup/extra wireless channels. I regularly use them as a mono camera hop, and adding a few IEM integrates nicely; no extra transmitter in the bag. This is for small shoots, where maybe the script sup or director wants IFB. Comteks have better range and incredible battery life, Lectro R1a will probably survive a nuclear explosion BUT the flexibility and ubiquity of the G3 won me over (for now).
  24. I suspect those mics will either 1) not work with 12v or 2) have decreased headroom at 12v. I use an Audio Technica AT8020 in-line attenuator with my Sanken CS3e when recording horrifically loud sounds (specifically the Indy 500). It passes phantom and brings the level down enough that my input doesn't clip.
  25. I really like the image from hacked GH2s, and have seen nice stuff from stock GH3s. I like the idea of the base, but I think it will scare away all the handheld DSLR guys. Curious to see if the clean HDMI will work with other external recorders (SD Pix, Atomos Ninja,etc).
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