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Shawn D

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Everything posted by Shawn D

  1. Hey Larry, I just did a job where we used these Shure directional lavs again and I rented an SRb and LMb combo for an extra channel. I ran into a very quiet signal from the lav even when the gain was cranked to it's max gain, 44 I believe. It was very noisy and such a low output that I even turned to using "mic" preamp settings on my Nomad to give it even more preamp gain so it would be usable in the show. I tried all 6 of my Shure 184 lavs on this TX and while some were a bit louder than others, all were basically unusably quiet. It appears that perhaps the input stage on the LMb is different to the SMQV's that I was using without issue. My questions are: 1. Is the input stage wired or setup differently on the LMb than on the SMQV? Is this like the servo/simple wiring incompatibilities? 2. Are any of the other Lectrosonics TX's (LT, SSM, UM400) also wired in a way that would be incompatible with my current wiring for my Shure 184's that currently works with my SMQV's? I'm considering getting an SSM but that would require a lemo-ta5m adapter and this seems like it could also pose a problem. Thanks!
  2. Larry, The wiring prescribed by you seems to be the same as the fig11 on the Lectro website "simple 5v 3-wire mic" which I tested first. That configuration gave me about 3-6dB less signal that the wiring on the Shure customer help forum (pins 1, 2, and 3 to ground, bias V, and mic in respectively). However I just tried what you recommended and to achieve max gain combined the black wire and shield at pin 1 and that gave me 6dB more gain than the Shure wiring. I'm quite happy with this, thanks Larry!
  3. Hey all you brilliant electrical minds. I just purchased some Shure WL 184 hypercardioid lavs to use with my Lectrosonics SMQV transmitters. I replaced the connectors with TA5F and tried wiring them up based on Lectro's "Simple 3-wire 5V" diagram using a jumper across pins 2 and 4. It worked but it had some noticeable hiss and required a lot of gain (about 35 and up on the SMQV) and was pretty nasal and lacking in bass. Then I found a wiring method on the Shure website that said to try just wiring up pins 1, 2, and 3 to ground, bias V, and mic in respectively. This provides the mic with only 2 volts and not the 5V that the Lavs prefer. This also worked and sounded better with less hiss and a fuller sound than the Other wiring but it still requires similarly high gain. I'm wondering, does anyone have a better way to wire up these mics to Lectro TA5F's that maybe supplies them the full 5V and might require less transmitter gain? Thanks!
  4. I used to use my mk-012's in ortf and xy in a Rode Blimp. I bought the swivels for the mics, stereo round Rycote clips and smaller rubber bands for the suspension and it fit and worked pretty well. I think handling noise and wind sensitivity will always be an issue with these mics though.
  5. I would love a bag sized RF distro with adjustable high and low pass filters. Like a Micplexer but able to be used on any combo of blocks not just 35MHz wide.
  6. Yes, it's straight forward wiring. If you buy a mic with the xlr adapter you can cut that off and put TA connectors on between them. The benefit of the Eumel is it's much smaller which I think is worth it. The benefit of the xlr adapter that comes with your mic is that it will output the precise DC voltage your lav wants to see, but at the expense of one more connector which could potentially fail.
  7. Here's 2 pics of the elastic Rycote stereo mounts on a Rode Blimp with a MKH 50/30 M/S pair. Centering the pair and compensating for front or rear loading can be achieved by using small elastic bands (ordered from Redding from the Rycote catalogue I believe) and moving around the elastic contact posts on the Blimp's mounting rings. This configuration works well for me. Only thing is the Blimp is a bit too long.
  8. I use the Rode setup for my MKH 50/30 MS rig as well and I'm pretty happy with it for ambiance and SFX use. If you get the rycote clips from redding audio for the older rycote suspensions that used rubber bands then the mics can sit centered vertically instead of being justified to the top of the blimp. Also, since the Blimp works well with stereo setups I've sent them some messages about releasing a shorter length main section and gotten no reply. As it's sold, it's longer than ideal for most MS setups and too long for shorter mics but otherwise a decent rig. Maybe we can get them to make a shorter one with some additional feedback from others.
  9. I'm going to be mixing a small independent narrative feature in Iceland for the whole month of June 2014. I'm looking for a good local boom op with narrative experience to help out on some or all of the dates we will be shooting. Budget is somewhat limited but I'll make sure we get you as much pay as we can for as many days as we can afford. Owning a good wireless boom Tx/Rx is a plus and we can pay more for that as well. Referrals welcome. Cheers, Shawn
  10. I worked a long day of booming the other day with the boom extended out pretty long for much of our shooting. We were shooting pretty wide for most shots and near the 11th hour my hands started to get tired, cramping up a bit, and lose a bit of feeling as the longer takes wore on. It has been a week now and one of my hands has been numb/tingling ever since. It basically goes from my thumb straight down my arm to my shoulder. Other places on my arm and hand have feeling. I'm curious, has anybody else had experiences with this? I've contacted my doctor and I'm waiting to hear back, but I'm just wondering if this happens to any body else.
  11. I bought a length of Remote Audio's 3-pair breakaway bulk cable from Coffee Sound and it works like a charm. It is spiral shielded not braided but exhibits none of the handling noise that my 2931 made. I think I got a bad batch of 2931 from Markertek because I used the same techniques on the Neutricon and the breakout ends and here it made no noise.
  12. Does anybody have a rigid case they can fit an IFB receiver and a pair of JVC flats in? I want to keep them together as a set and just grab as many as I need and not worry about crushing them. They're just barely too wide to fit in a cd wallet but I'm thinking something like that would be great.
  13. I've soldered a micon connector on to a Countryman B6. It works with almost all of the gear that I've used except some of the sony TA4F connectors. The XLR 48v adapter even works though I'm sure that is not ideal for the mic voltage. I've noticed that the only problem I encounter is that when I use the Hirose 4 female adapter for Audio Technica 1800 series the adapters stop working after about 1-2 days. The thing is I notice my Hirose 4 connectors on my AT cabled gear goes out after a few days as well. Soldering on a new connector fixes it. I think the Hirose 4 pin is just a delicate connector design. I think it's great to have the option just incase someone wants an extra lav on their G3 or Lectro in addition to my AT wireless and the XLR adapter adds a lot of value to the mix. If they made a 3 conductor version I'd try it on my COS-11d's.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I'd love to have a flexible breakaway system but I'm not as interested in dropping another few hundred dollars in parts and hours of time into another cable right now. I might go ERX TCD with different fan outs for the time being and revisit this later. For the future, are there any non-2931 cables that people can recommend? Preferably braided shield. Trew seemed to be out of stock of their 3 ch bulk breakaway cable last time I checked.
  15. I just rebuilt a breakaway using Mogami 2931. I wanted to do exactly what Jack was doing with Neutricon connectors at each end for use with different mixers and cameras. Previously I experienced small clicks and pops in the XLR lines when I moved them about in my fingers. Tried re-soldering every connector and even making a snake first with no Neutricon connectors or shared grounds, just XLR to XLR. This time I only soldered the ground wire and not the spiral shield to use for the ground, ground leads were insulated with heat shrink. It still creates clicks and pops when twisted in my fingers. The clicks are obvious when the female ends are not connected to anything and attenuated quite a bit when a source is connected. Testing for continuity and shorting shows no shorts and perfect continuity even when twisted in my fingers. Tests for capacitance show slight capacitance build up and released when twisting the cable. It is my belief that the spiral shield as opposed to a braided shield may be responsible for this. It could probably be solved by soldering all of the spiral shield plus the ground wire at each end, however this is too large to fit in a Neutricon pin solder cup or many small connectors. Perhaps my batch of 2931 is faulty, but I doubt it. It would probably be fine to use for non-critical applications or line level but I'm not happy with the results. I'm interested to know if any one else using the 2931 would perform the twist in fingers test on their XLR lines and confirm my findings or let me know that I'm crazy.
  16. Thanks for the suggestion Mark, I'll try only using the ground wire and not the spiral shield.
  17. Thanks for the reply Jack, maybe it is shorting somewhere but tests for shorts and continuity seem good. The connectors and solder joints look clean and I put heat shrink over both the shared sends' shields and the return shields before soldering to try and minimize the opportunity for that. I might try potting the connectors next but I don't think it's that. What makes me think it's the cable is that the crackling happens when the cable is twisted or pinched anywhere along the length, not just at the connections. Could be my Motu Ultralite I'm testing it on is the culprit but I've never had a cable do this before. I'll try testing it on my Nomad this week.
  18. I just made a breakaway cable using Mogami 2931 with Neutricon 8 connectors and I'm experiencing clicks and pops when moving the cable on the 2 XLR channels. I'm thinking it might be due to the shared ground between the 2 xlr channels being a spiral as opposed to braided shield and capacitance being built up and discharged as spiral braids come into contact with each other mid cable. I also may have compromised the integrity of the shield by cutting some of it to allow it to fit in the small solder cups on the Nuetricon connectors, though I did tin the combined shields further back on the cable to make sure all of the shield wires were connected. Has anyone experienced these clicks and pops? If so, how were you able to remedy the situation? Maybe I'm missing something on how to fit all those shield wires into a Neutricon 8 connector.
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