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Shastapete

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Everything posted by Shastapete

  1. Owning equipment is a business decision. When purchasing gear, the 2 main questions I ask myself are: 1. Does this make me a better mixer or eliminate a stress point in my workflow? 2. Will this piece of equipment get paid off in a reasonable period of time and then continue to give me income (cash-on-cash return) If I can't make a justifiable excuse for either (hopefully both) criteria, then I'll just rent the gear I need.
  2. Same – I personally hate the sound of the 7506s because of how bright they are. I also hate the sound of genelecs... but I have a pair on my desk because I know them inside and out, so I totally understand why Glen went with the sony's first because so many people use them and know them, despite their flaws.
  3. When these things first launched, Glen said an HD-25 version was in the works (my cans as well) so hopefully that'll show up and it matches as good as these things
  4. They sound basically identical, with the CMIT a tiny bit smoother when very off axis. When comparing the mics it is literally a photo finish. (I own several DPA mics, I did not think the minuscule amount of improvement is worth the added weight or $$$)
  5. There's certainly a cost/benefit ratio of not needing to supply comtek/IFBs – If the transmitter is reasonably priced, and "professional" enough, I could see myself getting one and charging to deploy it on set for the agency folks to all connect. Since I don't need to worry about supplying additional headsets or tracking them down at wrap that could save me a lot of grief on set (even though the IFBs basically just print money for me, since clients want them and they're already paid off) What I don't want (and what I'm sure it would turn into) is being tech support for everyone having issues connecting their phone/headphones/whatever to the transmitter. My gear is already pre-configured and when I hand it to them, I know it's already set up and ready. So for the $50/per they're also getting my time, effort, and knowledge for setting them up with something I stand behind.
  6. Cedar's trinity line is aimed at their forensics/surveillance market is it not? I assume it all runs the same algorithms under the hood but this just looks like their existing DNS software with less granular control
  7. Their website hasn't been updated in a while, but they have this: https://www.gothamsound.com/product/bt100-quad-battery-charger
  8. Electricity will flow from the battery with the highest voltage, so when you plugin in a fresh battery (regardless of chemistry) assuming it is at a higher voltage, it'll take the load. If the 2 batteries connected have the same voltage, they will share the load (batteries in parallel have the same voltage but will combine current - amps) and draw down together. The only caveat to all of this, if you have a full battery and a dead battery in parallel the dead battery will charge off of the full battery, so be quick on your battery changes, as this could cause a huge current draw and pop fuses in your fresh battery, so test it before trying in the field. Systems properly designed for multiple battery connections will have diodes to keep the power from feeding into the batteries with the lower state of charge.
  9. Shastapete

    nova2

    As far as Zaxcom has claimed, it's the same box with added AES I/O – a few different chips inside, but otherwise identical
  10. Again... not likely, because the ZMT-4 (and probably future models of that pack) offer phantom power... it would be a huge step backwards to drop that feature
  11. The microdots are unbalanced connections, so there's no way to do phantom power over it for your ZMT4s – the ZMT-Xs and the ZMT-Flexs both offer 2 channels on microdot, likely for the size
  12. Shastapete

    nova2

    "New" Nova – now with integrated circuits that are still in production! Now has eight external AES inputs plus 8 AES MRX direct outs (that flip to an additional 8 AES inputs if no MRXs are installed – basically replacing the MAES slot ins) Everything else is the same except there's an additional DB15 on the back for the receiver AES connections
  13. 24bit has 144dB of dynamic range – maybe you can't resolve butterfly wing flaps and gun shots in the same recording, but you'd be hard pressed to find anything (mic or AD converter) that is that sensitive either, and not to kick a hornets nest, but this is basically why 32bit is pointless.
  14. the best option these days is the Phonak Roger system – but that's around $1500 a receiver plus $1500 for a transmitter. The next step down is an inductive earpiece and a neckloop which is around $400 for the earpiece and another $50 or so for the loop – it also sounds bad. The sidekick is by far the best bang-for-buck earpiece of size and quality. You might find something on amazon if you look for a "covert bluetooth earpiece" or something – but you get what you pay for
  15. I "upgraded" my Pianissimo to an MS version, they sent me a new cable system and a new suspension and clips for the mics I am using (4017b and ATE308) pretty easy to do, but not something I'd want to do on set unless there was a good 30 minutes to do it, as you need to take the whole thing apart and put it back together.
  16. If you only plan to use it in the States, then it'd probably work great for you. I'd only suggest a lower frequency if you intend to travel internationally (but local regulations would dictate what's usable there anyways)
  17. Check out this video from Lectro – might be what you're looking for
  18. unscrew the bottom (or top since the cable is fully removable) and let the cable spill out when you fully collapse it down. Then stretch the cable out and see if there are any double twists or snags that isn't letting it close and work those out – then stuff it back in. In my experience, this happens when the pole has been twisted/spun in one direction causing the cable inside to do funny things to absorb that extra tension
  19. Bluetooth transmitters that plug into 1/8" jacks are a thing. (Airfly is an example) I suggest getting one of those and a bluetooth headset that meets your requirement
  20. No, I was agreeing with you... VASI asked for further explanation, so I provided some context. I've built around a dozen studios using both Rockwool and OC703 and agree that it is a great product. OC703 is more structurally rigid and can be wrapped in fabric and hung on a wall by itself. Rockwool is a bit fluffier, still holds its shape, but to be used as acoustic paneling, then it needs a structural frame. So in my experience, for making acoustic panels, OC703 wins, it also is a bit better at controlling the 250 to 1000hz range where voice intelligibility comes from. I prefer to use rockwool for built in acoustic treatment – where you have studs to provide the support to keep it in place. It is also fantastic for bass traps (because it is better at frequencies below 200hz) However, since it is less rigid and can be compressed when building a big stack in the corner you'll need some thin shelves fixed to the walls to transfer the weight – I like 1/4" ply with a number of large holes cut in it every 24" or so for this
  21. Rockwool is an insulation company. Safe'n'sound is their acoustic insulation product. https://www.rockwool.com/north-america/products-and-applications/products/safensound/?selectedCat=safensound® downloads Owens Corning 703 (without any facing) is another very effective acoustic insulation. https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/insulation/products/700-series-fiberglas-insulation 703 does slightly better at stoping sound transmission overall, but it is more expensive. Frequency 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 Overall 3" OC703 0.31 1.07 1.26 1.15 1.05 0.97 1.15 3" RW SnS 0.52 0.96 1.18 1.07 1.05 1.05 1.05
  22. 703 is excellent by itself for acoustic room control. Why are you hung up on fake fur? I wouldn't go near it unless it's an aesthetic choice – useless for sound control
  23. No one's ever looked at my batteries, but they're all less than 100Wh and ALWAYS in my carry on bag – and in a bag inside that just in case I can't get my bag on the plane and need to pull those batteries out. I should have contact covers on them... but I don't
  24. The threads are the mic ground, so probably not a good idea Maybe a tiny dab of loctite purple (lowest strength) would work… but I’d test that on a mic and adapter that you don’t mind glueing if it is too strong
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