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Shastapete

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Posts posted by Shastapete

  1. On 8/4/2020 at 9:33 PM, Trey said:

    Just buy a cheap set off of Amazon. Unless you are using it a lot, there isn't much need to spend a bunch. Good solder and flux is where I would put the money. Just my opinion. 

     

    Trey

     Sure, sure, not the arrows but the archer – but if you do anything more than an XLR cable once a year, you'll want at least a midrange iron that has variable temperature control, enough power to heat up quickly, and hold that temp so it doesn't get its heat sucked out by the work piece.

  2. 19 minutes ago, Mobilemike said:

    I am not a software programmer so take my advise with a grain of salt, but I believe one of the caveats with using an ambisonic mic is that for the best results, the software you use to process the files after recording and turn them into something listenable should be calibrated for the exact microphone you’re using - sensitivity, distance between the capsules, etc. 

     

    just something else to think about if you’re thinking about going the DIY route - even with a great mic you may get less than idea results unless you invest in a custom software solution as well. 
     

    -Mike

     

    Core Sound (who makes some inexpensive, but high quality ambisonics mics) does provide a calibration service where they will analyze your off the shelf mic and give you a custom calibration file to use with their ambisonic decoder, no personal experience but I've heard it steps up the quality in commercial mics

  3. Mr. Teas can correct me, but you're confusing the concept of room tone and ambience

    Room tone is 20-30 seconds of silence recorded from the mics, in the same position, that were used to record dialog. This means that you need your actors (or interview subject) to sit on their mark silently for a bit to get the track. Room tone is used in the dialog edit to smooth over edits and added spaces. This track is played with the dialog on the dialog bus (typically through the center channel)


    Ambiences are multitrack (stereo, quad, surround, ambisonic... etc.) used in the sound edit to create the environment for which the scene takes place, this is placed in the Sound Effects bus and doesn't have any dialog elements in it. Can room tone be ambience... sure, but mono mixes are boring.

     

  4. 4 hours ago, stacysound said:

     

    Looks like I have 3 98wh options - Remote Audio, Inspired Energy and Audioroot with a couple of options. Any advantages of the 3?

     

    TIA

     

    With these batteries there are 3 different manufacturers out there with slightly different, but all compatible, versions.

    The Inspired Energy NH2054, Remote Audio HI-Q, Sound Devices XL-Smart Battery, and Audioroot eSmart Li-98Wh are all the same batteries OEMed by Inspired Energy in Florida. So just buy the one that you can get the best price on.

    Audioroot has a new battery, the eSmart Li-96neo which is a 96Wh version that has an OLED battery display, as far as I can tell, they had them built to the same smart battery standard as Inspired Energy in China.

    The last version is the RRC2054-2 made by RRC which is a 6.90Ah / 99.40Wh version that has a few minor differences, but is to the same battery format spec.

  5. Way back in college I took a brass instrument repair class. It was just intro/basic stuff but this is the kind of repair we worked on.

     

    To remove a dent from a tube, we inserted a mandrel (a solid metal cylindrical rod) slightly smaller than the tube diameter and hammered out the dent with a soft mallet – leather I think.

  6. Are you looking to add a switch to an electret lav or do you just want PTT on a dynamic handheld type mic?

     

    With an electret lav you need to worry about the "thumping" of mic power, Shure recommends a 1000uF, 6Vdc for 600 ohm mic (close enough for most lavs) obviously, the connector end depends on your transmitter.

     

    Basically, what this circuit does is that when the switch is engaged, the capacitor shorts out the AC voltage (audio) so the mic isn't making noise, but it doesn't short out the DC voltage (mic power/phantom) so the mic still stays energized.

     

    I haven't yet built one of these on my own yet, but this is my research and plan.
     

    zddP7.png

    4 minutes ago, Trey LaCroix said:

    I should have elaborated a bit more. I’m setting up a talkback system for my boom op and figured using one of my old um400s with a cheap headset mic would be the simplest solution for me.

     

    I’d like to keep the comm return routed to my headphones but don’t want to hear it open all the time. So I believe the only way to do this would be to put a PTT button I line from the mic to the TX.

    If you don't care about the pop in your coms line (an aggressive filter can take care of most of it) just wire a walkie mic as you would with a lav.

  7. 20 hours ago, Paul F said:

    Vaxis is having a substantial sale on their Atom 500. This is a budget (meaning latency) system  similar to the Hollyland Mars 400S in that it has both a transmitter/receiver pair and also transmits via wi-fi to phones/tablets. Now $299.

     

    FYI - no SDI

  8. Plug a "thing" into your recorder –

        great, what recorders support it?

        what does the thing do?

        is there an upfront cost or is it a subscription model?

        "trusted cloud service" who is that? Can I upload files to my own service and/or encrypted AWS bucket?

        What data does Viviana cloud store?

        Is that data encrypted?

     

    ... again, all teaser no actual information

  9. Now I'm being pedantic, There's no such thing as Owens Corning 704. (or at least not sold anymore)


    There's a 703, 705, 706, and 707. The number is a formulation number and does not denote material size.

     

    703 and 705 comes in thicknesses of 1, 2, 3 or 4 inches.

    706 and 707 only in 1 or 2 inches.

    Screen Shot 2020-06-21 at 3.35.18 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-06-21 at 3.35.06 PM.png

     

  10. Do the plugs need to be removable? i.e. Do they still need them to be windows sometimes or do they need to be accessible as a means of egress? 

     

    If you just need to seal up the window bucks and they are semi-permanent (can be uninstalled but are meant to be left in place for the long term) I'd fill up the window with an insulation that has a high NRC value – like Owens Corning 703 or Rockwool Safe 'n' Sound. I'd then put in the opening a basic wood frame and attach a piece of drywall. Then I'd caulk the seams with silicon, tape the joints and paint.

     

    There are 2 ways sounds transmit, through mechanical coupling – sound vibrates wall, vibrations move through structure, structure vibrates air on the other side – and air gaps/leaks.
     

    So the above method fills up the hole (window) with a ton of material that is resistant to the mechanical vibration, and sealing the hole seals the air leaks.

    The other thing to consider, is if you have a lot of low frequency sound problems you'll need really thick and or heavy walls to slow that sound from leaking out.

    Other sound transmission suggestions is to add another layer of drywall to the inside of the room sandwiching a layer of greenglue, staggering the seams over the original wall seams and calking the joints – but that can get expensive fast. 

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