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astro
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Everything posted by astro
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I own an old version Sixpack whose RF-design is far from perfect. The internal connections to the antenna jack's are just unshielded pcb traces which therefore act as antennas themselves. Also the BPF filtering happens after the signal amplification. Nearby TV or LTE transmitters will easily overload the amplifier before they can be filtered out by the BPF. I don't know if they fixed these design flaws in the new version Sixpack or the 4 or 12 pack. I would be very interested in pictures of these products with the top lid removed.
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Larry, for now it seems to work just fine with a ceramic 100nF/X7R type capacitor. The next time I order some electronic parts I will also order the right NP0 type capacitor. No need to send a 0.02€ part across the big pond. Thanks again for your help, though! 🥰
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Thank you Larry! The only smd capacitor I can find in my boxes is 100nF. According to my limited knowledge this would result in a cut off frequency of around 30kHz which should be ok, no? Or will that introduce some other problems?
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Hi! I bought a used SNA600a. Strangly the capacitor under the housing seems to be broken. What value should I use to replace it?
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Although the pictures and advertisement texts say AES on 1 and 6, the block diagram shows AES3 inputs on 1,2,5 and 6. What's right?
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From the SSM manual.
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I don't know about SSM or ZMT but Sennheiser and also Wisycom has the bias voltage and audio input on pin 3. Snip off pin 2 instead. Voice Technologies uses a screw type Lemo connector without the crimp part which is much more easy to assemble. I don't know if it's an original Lemo or some kind of knockoff. Ambient has them in stock.
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👍🏼 I just ordered a few blankets at this shop. I asked if they could provide black and white blankets and Mr. Maafi of C&M Umzugslogistik promised to import a batch of b/w blankets. In about three months time they will be available! So, tell everyone! 😃
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Before I ordered my X3, I asked Aaton a question regarding the minimal external power supply voltage. They answered that they changed something on the power board so the X3 accepts lower voltage than the stated 13V. Recently I sent in my #266 for some minor mechanical adjustments and when it came back the service documentation said they, although I had no problems in that regard, changed out the power board to a new version. So my conclusion is that since the X3 first was released the power board was changed at least two times.
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You have to add that as an EB assistant the normal price here in cologne is 160,-€ to 180,-€ as a freelancer. No social insurance included. So if you want to compare the union wage of 307,-€/10h to the 160,-€ an EB assistant gets you also have to reduce the 160,- by 30%. That would be something like around 125,-€/10h. It's modern slavery. 🤢
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There seems to be a switch on the side of the housing. What is this for?
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Well, that's the theory. We tried that with a tentacle and a tiny lockit with no success. Only after we got the modification done and permanently attached a tri level lockit the inconsitant tc changed to a consistent one frame offset.
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I had the same problem. Only thing that helped was to get one sdi out of the camera modified to genlock in and use a lockit with tri-level. Here is a thread in the official Arri forum which addresses the same issue: https://www.arri.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=208
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I'm wondering how long it will take them to copy these...
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Genlocking Alexa Mini from a Tentacle
astro replied to nickreich's topic in Cameras... love them, hate them
The Alexa mini can generate Genlock from the incoming timecode signal or from a Genlock signal. To connect a Genlock signal one of the sdi outs can be modified to a Genlock in. This however has to be done inside the camera and is a job for service. I had a project last year where we couldn't get the camera to sync properly with a tentacle or a tiny lockit. There always were one or two frames offset in an inconsistent way. Finally we had the camera modified to accept a Genlock signal and used a lockit box with Genlock out. This solved the problem. I still don't know what went wrong this time. I had other Alexa mini projects where there were no problems at all. -
Hi Jan, I place the pedal on the framing of my cart. The pedal is made of a base plate, the two pedals and the controller part. You can disassemble the three parts and only use the small controller. It offers two mini trs sockets to connect to any push buttons you like. Edit: just found this on eBay. It's the same device without the baseplate: http://m.ebay.com/itm/222078864914?_mwBanner=1
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I recently bought a surface pro 4 tablet. It came with a pre installed program named "drawboard pdf". It lets you highlight text and take notes with the stylus. It's also very easy to change all parameters like colour and opacity. Also you can save your favourite pens to a quick access bar. If you're on Windows this is perfect. Quite expensive though if it's not pre installed. I use a Strich Music BT-FP2 pedal to turn pages.
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Very clever idea with the friction hinge. Could you provide more information about the hardware? Maybe a link to the hinge you used?
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These are exactly the hooks I need on my cart! Could someone give a hint where to get these? Preferable in Germany. Or Matt, could you please post a close-up of the sticker with barcode and number? Maybe I can find them online that way. Thanks! Edit: Never mind, I found them. https://hardware-warehouse.co.uk/Folding-Plastic-Coated-Curved-Hook
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In my case I mounted the transmitters directly on the converters. I drilled a hole into the converter box and soldered the transmitter wires directly to the pcb of the converter. If you want to use the bnc out of a professional converter you have to somehow connect the inner core to the video input and the shell to the ground of the transmitter.
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So it's the same as it was with the X1/2 10.5V. That's good news. If not the juicer would be a good solution. Thanks guys!
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What's the minimum external voltage the X3 runs on? Somewhere I read 13V. I'm running my cart on lead acid batteries and am very happy that way. It would really suck if this won't work anymore...
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We had big problems with the mini on my latest project. There was no way to keep the mini in sync with a tentacle box or a tiny lockit. The picture was always one or two frames off. The only cure was to modify the camera to allow genlock input on the 2nd video out and use a lockit with tc and genlock connected to the camera. Took us two weeks to figure this out. The manual states that genlock can be generated from the timecode but this didn't work...
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Here's my new 5.8GHz Video setup. I used the cheap Chinese down converters from eBay which were discussed earlier in this thread. I used two different video transmitters but for rigidity I recommend the boxed version: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281988906147 The blue device is a DC/DC converter to get clean 12VDC from what ever battery voltage the video combo is running on. Alternatively I can plug in a standard 12VDC wall power supply. The monitors I used are Feelworld FPV-718B. They have inbuilt diversity receivers and a rechargeable battery. Outdoors it works great with crystal clear picture quality. Indoors there are a few problems with reflections if people are moving between the antennas. Though when shooting its better because usually everyone stands still...
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