Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by jawharp

  1. Can't really tell if I'm proud or ashamed of this one, but I made a hardwired ethernet version of a CL-Wifi for my 788T. This started as a random idea, then a hobby project, then something I spent way too much time and money on (about $200 total and countless hours of my life I will never get back). I still use my 788T and have wanted an easy iPad interface to arm and name tracks, change routing, rename files, etc. I got a CL-Wifi when it was originally released and was really disappointed with its performance. It constantly lost its wifi connection and had to be reconnected and disconnected multiple times. I got rid of mine pretty soon after getting it. A year ago, I made a remote roll button for my 788, and in the process started reading about the C-Link port on the 788t. Since it was basically a modified serial connection, I figured I could just make my own device that sent the remote control serial commands to the 788 to remotely control it. I bought a used CL-Wifi and took it apart. What I found was a main board with the C-Link port on it, and a removable daughter card that was the WIFI module. The module is the Nano WiReach, which was made by ConnectOne. The company has since gone out of business. Through looking at old ConnectOne documentation, I found out that there was a companion module released with the Nano WiReach: the Nano LANReach. It was made to be a 1 to 1 swap out module that provided a single ethernet port instead of a WiFi network. It wasn't easy to track down since they haven't been sold since like 2010, but I found one in Israel along with the evaluation board used to program it and the WiReach. I connected the prototyping board to my PC with an RS-232 to USB cable, and using the programming software I found on an old backup of the ConnectOne site on The Wayback Machine, I was able to read the settings off of the original Wifi module and copy them over to the LAN module. The LAN module is larger than the Wifi one, so I had to remove the C-Link port from the CL-Wifi board. Final Results: It works like a charm. No lost connections, changes are near instant, and I can even sleep the iPad, and it comes right back up no problem. If anyone wants any more detailed descriptions of anything or wants to replicate this, feel free to PM me. I attached some photos of the LAN and Wifi modules, the evaluation board, and the whole thing hooked up to the 788. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9vqWUJwhutbpGoRY6
  2. Hi, I'm making a remote roll button for my 788T with a built in LED. The LED flashes when the machine is rolling thanks to the DE-15's logic out pin hooked to an Arduino. The whole circuit works perfectly fine when tested on my breadboard and powering the Arduino with it's 3.5V externally. I really wanted to power the remote roll button via the Ext. DC OUT pin on the 788's DE-15 connector so I can do everything with one VGA cable, but I'm having some trouble with the power that it outputs. I am using a DC to DC converter to step down the 13V coming out of my 788T's Ext. DC OUT pin to a usable 3.5V for the Arduino. When I connect the circuit to any power supply (including connecting it to my Meon directly) it works as intended and the voltage converter powers up and outputs the 3.5v. When getting power from the 788T's External DC OUT pin, the voltage converter does not power on. I thought the DC OUT pin was just a direct loop through of the external power that the machine is getting, but it looks like something is different about it. I can power the circuit fine off of my Meon which is powering the 788, but it doesn't like something about the power that the 788 is giving out. When I probe the DC output of the 788's DE-15 it reads 13.5 volts DC as expected. But the voltage converter doesn't like something about it. Anyone know what might be different? This is the voltage converter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3XHXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. I guess you'd have to have one for each transmitter and connect to it first. This BT receiver has its own battery, but I was trying to figure out if it was possible to power it off phantom from the SM. It would cut down on size considerably.
  4. I had an idea of putting a bluetooth receiver between a sanken lav and my sm transmitter. The mic has a passthrough to the transmitter. I connect to the BT receiver with a cellphone and use the regular Lecrosonics RM app to set settings on the transmitter wirelessly. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Ji2LvgBHrhiGwH47 Does this violate Zaxcom's patent? Slightly related question: Would anyone buy this?
  5. Ah, so it just gives out what the 788t is getting into it on the hirose jack?
  6. jawharp

    Noisy R1a?

    It's cause you're using low impedance headphones. Put in a 220 ohm inline resistor like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMGTBBL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will kill the noise floor. Then you put the volume higher to compensate for the resistor.
  7. Hey, I'm building a remote roll box for my 788t with some additional buttons on it, and was working on powering it. I noticed that pin #10 on the DE-15 says 10V DC in the manual. Is that an input or an output? It'd be cool to power the external box off one connector, but it seems suspiciously like it's an input.
  8. Hey guys, I'm going to start by saying that this is a very specific question and has no practical use on a film set. It's for a project I'm working on at home. The basic idea is one SMV transmitter with a lav going into it. Call the lav Source A. I need a second source of mic level audio, Source B, going into the same input jack on the transmitter. I would make an external circuit so that when there is signal present on Source B, Source A is muted and Source B is allowed to pass into the transmitter. I was planning on achieving the mic level of Source B by padding down it's regular line level by 50db with resistors. I was wondering what pins I would use for Source B's audio on the transmitter input jack. From looking at the Lectro wiring diagrams, I think it's 1 & 3, but I'm not sure. Would bias wiring matter from a padded down line level signal? I also ideally would want this to work with multiple lav wirings for Source A (different lavs). Would switching between the two different mic level wirings of Source A and B like that be bad for the transmitter in any way? I've definitely plugged and unplugged different kinds of lavs like a COS11 and B6 before and it worked fine. I'm just wondering if there's anything I'm not seeing. Thanks
  9. Hey Guys, I was looking into a way to interact with my 788T via a tablet or PC of some kind and there appears to be no really good option anymore. The CL-Wifi didn't work that great when I had one, and the app appears to be no longer supported on the app store. The Wave Agent control mode leaves a bit to be desired and isn't really meant to be used to control the machine/arm & disarm tracks, etc. I want to write an app to control my 788T via a mac desktop and the usb port on the 788T with the 788T set to Wave Agent Control Mode. I've written some mac software before in the past, and this seems like what I'd want to do is pretty simple. Does anyone know anything about how Wave Agent communicates with the 788T over usb? Thanks
  10. Hey Guys, Was wondering what the best blocks are for NYC nowadays. I used to have all block 26 stuff, but I hear now that it should be avoided. Thanks, Joe
  11. Hey Guys, Just starting to research the new SMWB transmitters and I'm wondering if I'm missing something in regards to the software on the transmitter itself and updating. Is what is available at this link: https://www.lectrosonics.com/Support/category/98-smwb-smdwb.html the software running on the transmitter (the OS) or is this something more low level than that? If so, are OS updates available to do yourself or do you have to send them in? Thanks
  12. Hey Guys, Got a bunch of COS-11's that didn't get wrapped properly last time I used them and they've been like that for a while. The cables are pretty wavy at this point. Any tips for straightening them back to the way they were? Thanks, Joe
  13. Hey Guys, Had a TS-3 come back from camera and they said something was rattling inside. I opened the battery door and this small black plastic piece pictured here fell out of the slate. It's currently rejammed and functioning normally as far as I can tell. (It was still jammed when I got it back. I had to rejam cause I turned it off.) Anyone have any idea what this piece is? Not sure on a scale of 1-10 how dire of a problem it is if we continue to use the slate or if it should be sent for immediate repair. Thanks! Joe
  14. Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. The question was regarding running a mini mite with the 1/4 length antenna that's usually on the M-216, instead of using the much longer whip that comes with the mini-mite. I tried it out, and didn't notice much of a difference, though the tests I run in my apartment building rarely ever reflect real world applications. This setup was purely done as an experiment to save space/height on my cart. I'm going to try it out for a while and see how it goes range-wise. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks, Joe
  15. Will this work? The large antenna for the Mini Mite is too big for my current setup. Being fed by a basestation. Just wanted to know if this would work better than just using the small whip by itself. Thanks, Joe
  16. Thanks for the reply. Good to know about the PCB change. That noise was the only finicky thing I heard about the 8xxx series and I'm glad they fixed it. Just to confirm: does the MZG swivel both ways, or only in one direction?
  17. Hey Guys, Trying to find some info on the Sennheiser MZG 8000 swivel module for the 8xxx series of microphones. Anyone have/used one before? I've been looking for a Schoeps gvc/41 replacement for a while and was thinking the 8050 with this swivel might be a good option. I was mainly wondering about it's range of swivel compared to a GVC, as well as the overall reliability of the 8xxx series. Thanks, Joe
  18. Local 52 is accepting applications this week starting September 14th for 5 days. I highly encourage any non-union boom operators to put an application in. There is currently a big shortage in available competent boom operators in the NY area.
  19. Yeah, I can see how the importance of the actual dialogue is almost impossible to quantify and needs to be taken into account on a case by case basis. This poll was more about the person's usual plan for micing any scene going into it, regrdless of how the scene would have to be mic'd after seeing a blocking rehearsal. It was to refer to the way people work rather than the micing of particular scenes. A better way to phrase my question is probably: do you always assume you will be micing the off camera, regardless of the timing/blocking of an actual scene?
  20. I've worked for many mixers. Most (myself included) focus on on-camera dialogue and do not concern themselves with the off camera. This has always made more sense to me because the off camera actors are generally not acting at 100%, and 2 booms out means twice as many possibilities for boom shadows/reflections/unnecessary set clutter. There is also no weirder look to get than the one given by someone staring at you, wondering why you're booming someone who's not in the close up their currently shooting. I have worked for some mixers who swear by always double booming for off camera dialogue. The most common excuse for this that I've heard from them is "It's so they can cut it in case there are overlaps." This has never made sense to me. It doesn't remove the overlap problem from the on-camera mic, and limits the choice of which take editors can use for the off camera. I would rather just tell them not to over lap. Obviously, this is not going to be the same situation job to job. There may be reasons to boom the off-camera like the director liking the performance better when they do overlap, editors requesting you get everything whenever possible, an actor you can't tell not to overlap cause they'll flip out, etc. I was wondering today how many people get off-camera regularly, and how many people don't. That's why I made this poll.
  21. Quick update: I had initially changed the frequency, but it didn't get rid of the whining sound I was getting. In a final act of desperation this evening, I set the frequency to one of the highest possible on the transmitter, in this case 690.000, and the sound went away. This is by no means a permanent fix, and I'm still going to send it in, but I'm glad I have something I can work with tomorrow. If it fails, I have my audio ltd as a backup. So to anyone experiencing this problem on set and needs a quick fix, this might work temporarily. I'll keep you guys posted, Joe
  22. Hey Guys, Was going through my gear today for an upcoming job, and plugged my p48 416 into my Lectro butt plug. It started emitting a high pitched whining noise in addition to the sound coming from the mic. I disconnected the mic and noticed the sound was still there with nothing plugged into it. When the transmitter moves or I touch it in a different spot the pitch of the sound changes. Changed the batteries, but that didn't change anything. I've never had any issues with it before today. Anyone know what could be going on? Thanks, Joe
  23. Getting unjammed halfway through the day is usually the AC dropping it and the battery sled getting jostled so it loses contact, powers down, and unjams. If the AC didn't drop it, someone most likely knocked it over onto its face and the same thing happened.
  24. Hey Everyone, I've been powering my Cooper CS-106 from my Remote Audio Meon, which only gives out 12 volts. It's been working fine with no issues. I heard that the noise floor of the mixer is greatly reduced when you power it with 18 volts instead of 12 volts. I guess I have 2 questions: Is this true? If so, does anyone know of any reliable product that can convert the voltage from my Meon? All i've been able to find are things made for car batteries like this: http://www.powerstream.com/dc-2171.htm I wasn't sure if the conversion that a unit like this would do would introduce anything nasty power-wise into the mixer or not. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe
  • Create New...